Fix tire rub

sixtyfive · Sep 14, 2011

Ok so I am looking for some options to get my rear wheels to stop rubbing the fender lips at the 12 o clock position of the wheel well.

Details -
65 mustang
17x8 Mb oldschool wheels +6mm offset (4.75 backspace)
235 45 17 Dunlop Direzza Z1 tires
2008 GT disk brake swap
Stock width 9" rear
1/4 inch spacer to clear front and rear calipers

I ordered the "ideal" backspace for 17x8 wheels not knowing that I would need to add a small spacer to allow the inside of the wheel to clear the face of the caliper. After adding the quarter inch spacer I am at 4.5 backspace. I attempted rolling the upper portion of the fender lips and was able to get them to move a little but not a whole lot.

I am trying to stir up some ideas on what would be the best way to get my car to clear these wheels. I also looked into ordering 2 different offset wheels for the rear but they only come in 0mm offset or the +6mm like I ordered. My rear springs appear to be factory 4 leaf standard eye springs. Would jumping up to 4.5 leaf springs help? I seen in dodgestang's chart that some people with 4.5 backspace on the rear are running 4 leaf HD standard or 4 leaf HD mideye springs. How much would those lift the back end?

Current stance -

jerthemost · Sep 14, 2011

I have the same problem

I have the same problem. Same tries as yours with 17 wheels. I recently changed my leafs to 5 leaf heavy duty. The ride and handling is sooooooo much improved and the rubbing much better but can still rub now and then especially if load of beer in the trunk or someone in the back seat. The springs are a definite must.

My next step is to change shackles so i can raise the rear 1 more inch. In think that will take care of 98% of the problem Here are some pics after springs, really no change in looks.

68 coupe with upgraded 302/289 auto power a/c

jerthemost · Sep 14, 2011

bought my springs

from laurel mountain FYI had best price anywhere and the delivery and product is excellant

iskwezm · Sep 14, 2011

your springs are sagging. Replace with a 5 leaf mid eye and it will sit level. My car sits lower then yours so i went with shockwave's in the rear lift/stiffen the rear.Might not completely fix the issue because the backspace being 1/4" less but it will give a little more clearance.

oh, i just saw you had 235's. they should fit fine unless your springs are that weak and the suspension sompresses that much.I had 275 and now 26X11.50X17's

dodgestang · Sep 14, 2011

Did you put the spacer in the front and the back?

235 45 17 should fit right on.....perhaps the springs are a bit soft and you are getting more downward and side to side movement than you should.

zookeeper · Sep 14, 2011

I'm a machinist and can tell you that machining your wheels to clear the calipers is very easy if you dismount the tires. Check around to find someone with either a big enough lathe or a CNC milling machine with enough space to clear the spindle. I've done it on both machines in under an hour, so cost should be minimal. Certainly worth checking into.

sixtyfive · Sep 15, 2011

iskwezm said:
your springs are sagging. Replace with a 5 leaf mid eye and it will sit level. My car sits lower then yours so i went with shockwave's in the rear lift/stiffen the rear.Might not completely fix the issue because the backspace being 1/4" less but it will give a little more clearance.

oh, i just saw you had 235's. they should fit fine unless your springs are that weak and the suspension sompresses that much.I had 275 and now 26X11.50X17's

The car always squatted on the previous wheel tire combo as well. I was rubbing with 245 60 14 on 17x6 wheel with 4 1/8 backspace. I had thought something was done to the car to make it sit low in the back but it looks like its just stock spring sag.

Does a 5 leaf mid eye sit about the same as a 4.5 leaf standard eye?

dodgestang said:
Did you put the spacer in the front and the back?

Yes I had to run the spacer on all 4 wheels, front was a little more necessary than rear with the larger calipers.

zookeeper said:
I'm a machinist and can tell you that machining your wheels to clear the calipers is very easy if you dismount the tires. Check around to find someone with either a big enough lathe or a CNC milling machine with enough space to clear the spindle. I've done it on both machines in under an hour, so cost should be minimal. Certainly worth checking into.

This is something I had not considered... but will look into. With the wheels you have done this to was it very noticeable when they are on the car?

jerthemost said:
from laurel mountain FYI had best price anywhere and the delivery and product is excellant

They do seem to have good prices, Did you go with the 5 leaf mid eye or the 5 leaf standard? Your car actually looks like the wheel is closer to the fender than mine.

jerthemost · Sep 15, 2011

sixtyfive said:
The car always squatted on the previous wheel tire combo as well. I was rubbing with 245 60 14 on 17x6 wheel with 4 1/8 backspace. I had thought something was done to the car to make it sit low in the back but it looks like its just stock spring sag.

Does a 5 leaf mid eye sit about the same as a 4.5 leaf standard eye?

Yes I had to run the spacer on all 4 wheels, front was a little more necessary than rear with the larger calipers.

This is something I had not considered... but will look into. With the wheels you have done this to was it very noticeable when they are on the car?

They do seem to have good prices, Did you go with the 5 leaf mid eye or the 5 leaf standard? Your car actually looks like the wheel is closer to the fender than mine.

Here is the part number 6700-LSK-HR $219.95 plus $40 freight all hardware including chrome shackles which i will soon remove and all parts were good quality not foreign looking crap.
They fit right in with no problems, took about 1.5 hr to do the job using a lift. My mechanic did the changeout for $120. It's like driving a new car. I know if i had my fenderwells lipped it would fix the problem for sure but could mess up my paint so i think the shackles to raise it another inch is best choice. My car actually sits a little lower in the rear now so one inch should put it level with the front.

dodgestang · Sep 15, 2011

I have MB wheels on my 68 and they cleared the kelsey hayes style front calipers and the SSBC rear disc conversion calipers. Take the spacer out from the rear and you won't rub the fender anymore.

sixtyfive · Sep 15, 2011

dodgestang said:
I have MB wheels on my 68 and they cleared the kelsey hayes style front calipers and the SSBC rear disc conversion calipers. Take the spacer out from the rear and you won't rub the fender anymore.

I am guessing your SSBC rear rotors have a taller hat section than the 2008 rotors do.

Here is a good link that shows what my rotors look like
2008 Ford Mustang - Centric Parts 120.61087 Rear Premium Brake Rotor

My only options to remove the spacers would be grind my wheels\calipers or switch to a different style rear rotor caliper combo.

dodgestang · Sep 15, 2011

sixtyfive said:
I am guessing your SSBC rear rotors have a taller hat section than the 2008 rotors do.

Yes, yes they do.

Have you rolled your lip? Do you consider that an option?

sixtyfive · Sep 15, 2011

I have rolled the lip some using a hammer but am afraid to go further. The inner fender has a very rough fit along the inside of the lip and I think it needs to be cut out in order to allow me to roll the fender lip any more. I can get a picture of this uploaded later.

Adams91LX · Sep 15, 2011

Have you tried the wooden baseball method of fender rubbing? or rent a fender roller locally?

iskwezm · Sep 15, 2011

Adams91LX said:
Have you tried the wooden baseball method of fender rubbing?

I havent had a baseball bat work yet whenever i tried it. the tire absorbs the force of the bat so very little is applied to the fender lip.

Slobin3d · Sep 15, 2011

wooden baseball trick? elaborate!

zookeeper · Sep 15, 2011

Your supposed to be able to stick a baseball bat between the tire and fender, slowly drive forward while a buddy holds the bat, and get a perfectly rolled fender lip. It doesn't work. Just like was previously posted, the tire absorbs the bat and you end up with nothing more than sore hands and a dented bat.

dodgestang · Sep 15, 2011

Funny....cause it (bat) worked for me....it is admittidly HARD to do in the rear because the metal is double thick. I have since purchase a proper fender rolling tool however.

iskwezm · Sep 16, 2011

its easier to use a body hammer and 2.5 lb lead bag.

sixtyfive · Sep 16, 2011

Here is the inner fender issue I mentioned.

In order to roll the fender any more I feel like I would need to drill out the rivets and cut the mangled inner fender back first.

zookeeper · Sep 16, 2011

Nope, just keep working a hammer, front to back, moving about 2 inches with each blow. I've used a 24 oz ball-peen with the hammer covered with about 2 layers of masking tape and was lucky enough to not even chip the paint. I stopped short of bending the lip flat against the inner wheelhouse, but I have seen it done that way, just keep hitting and keep moving, being VERY careful not to hit the inner wheelwell, just the lip.

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