Fixed A Major Problem Today..........thoughts On This One Slight Issue

[from6to8]

I tell ya what though, after explaining all that I have done over past few wks to car, diagnosing , cleaning things, getting all the maintenance up to date, when explaining that I still had a slight miss upon takeoff only and that I saw some arc at No. 8 plug wire at night, someone yesterday said could be a manifold exhaust leak or something to that affect and to check the headers and at X pipe. Well I checked the headers cause I remember some of the bolts being hard to get to last time though I remember getting them all tight. Checked them today and out of 16 bolts, about 8 of them I got turns on. No. 8 both bolts were loose a good bit. A few others on the other side weren't that loose but I put a few turns on. I drove the car and I definitely noticed a difference. All that damn time I had an exhaust leak and I did tighten the header bolts up periodically after first putting them on because I had heard of them working loose in maybe first few months or so but I wouldnt have thought some would have come back loose a little bit.

I don't know what happened at No. 8. I think last time it was difficult to get to backside bolt and not sure how tight I had gotten it, but the first one of no. 8 shouldn't have been that loose. NOw for another dilema. I noticed that it seems that back bolt of no. 8, the hole might be slightly stripped. NOt sure what the heck happened but I think lastly the guy who put the motor in and who had done some work for me periodically when I was still a rookie, I think he tightned that bolt last. Not to blame him though not sure when it happened or if it is even stripped. When tightening, i had to get in a very awkward position laying on top of intake and reaching behind intake as I do when putting in the no. 8 plug. I tightened and it got tight then it got a little loose, not real real loose. I turned some more and it got pretty tight again. I didnt want to think it was stripped but I def had to try and see anyway so it did the same thing again and last time I just left it at that tight spot. Pretty tight so I'm wondering if it will be ok. I was trying to think of what I might can do to maybe just reinforce it some, maybe take bolt out and put in something that will sort of reinforce and sort of extra solidify the bolt and its pressure on that end of the header without being difficult to have to take out one day. I know next time when need motor work done or something that will be the time to check it all out good and see whats going on and fix if needed.

Thoughts guys.

 

[revhead347]

Well if a wire arcs, it's a bad wire and shoud be repaire or replaced. Header bolts do have a tendancy to work loose. What kind of header bolts are talking about here? Are they factory ones, or 7/16" heads? Most of the aftermarket ones are 3/4" long. If you swap it out for a 1" bolt you might be able to get down to some good thread.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

Well if a wire arcs, it's a bad wire and shoud be repaire or replaced. Header bolts do have a tendancy to work loose. What kind of header bolts are talking about here? Are they factory ones, or 7/16" heads? Most of the aftermarket ones are 3/4" long. If you swap it out for a 1" bolt you might be able to get down to some good thread.

Kurt

7/16 it is. Yeah you're right that might actually work. I will see if I even have one lying around or will go to hardware store. But does it have to be specifically a header bolt? And that arching wire I wonder if had anything to do with an exhaust leak there because of both bolts on no. 8 being loose therefore that part of the header was sort of loose?

 

[revhead347]

Unless the wire is burned, I would say it's a seperate issue. The header bolts are 3/-16 thread. It doesn't have to be a header bolt, but usually on a regular bolt the heads are too big and you can't get a wrench around it. I think the standard head size on a 3/8-16 is 9/16.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

Unless the wire is burned, I would say it's a seperate issue. The header bolts are 3/-16 thread. It doesn't have to be a header bolt, but usually on a regular bolt the heads are too big and you can't get a wrench around it. I think the standard head size on a 3/8-16 is 9/16.

Kurt

new wire so i guess it was possibly the loose bolts. I will check again one night now that I have tightened the bolts.

Also, for my setup which gapping should I run on the plugs? I think they are at .45 and I will double check tommorow. What would running at between .50-.53 do ? I wana be as fast as possible but still be efficient with gas mileage

 

[ProKiller]

you're sure its arching from the wire and not the plug? could have cracked the porcelain a little bit and it will arch from there.

the longer header bolt should help but if it's stripped the only way to really fix it is to have it helicoiled. i would also recommend to test the longer bolt on an easier to reach hole. my heads won't take 1" bolts as the hole isnt' deep enough.

 

[revhead347]

ProKiller brings up an important point with the bolt. The entire inch might not fit. You want to make sure it's tightening on the head of the bolt, and not bottoming out in the thread of the head. You might need a washer or two to get it right. Heli-coils are the way to fix it, but it's a real pain to do while the head is still on the car. It's real easy to screw it up. You might also just try retapping the whole. There might be enough metal in there still to form some thread.

.045" is a decent gap and should work fine. Most people go down to the .040" gap, but it really doesn't make any difference. As long as it's getting a strong spark you are fine.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

ProKiller brings up an important point with the bolt. The entire inch might not fit. You want to make sure it's tightening on the head of the bolt, and not bottoming out in the thread of the head. You might need a washer or two to get it right. Heli-coils are the way to fix it, but it's a real pain to do while the head is still on the car. It's real easy to screw it up. You might also just try retapping the whole. There might be enough metal in there still to form some thread.

.045" is a decent gap and should work fine. Most people go down to the .040" gap, but it really doesn't make any difference. As long as it's getting a strong spark you are fine.

Kurt

Pro well t was dark when I checked so not sure exactly if it was from the wire or plug. If i shined a light on it ofcourse couldnt see the arch but i did shine a light on it to verify where it was coming from or which plug rather. Wires are new though it is the duralast from Autozone which I will take back once my Taylors come in this wk. I'm pretty positive I didnt crack the porcelain as I have learned my lesson with that and everytime i did crack one I heard it actually break but will double check later. Also, my problem might be fixed now that I did tightenen the bolts though that last one is having its issues, its still tight. I was gona thread chase it with this gearwrench set we have here and then go ahead and try the longer bolt. I will try in an easier to get to hole first though and if not put on a few washers. I wonder if I thread chase it , if I might be able to actually use the original bolt?

also, I'm trying to find out which thread chaser I need to use. I know it's a 3/8 size bolt as the head is 7/16th but wana make sure I use the correct thread ofcourse

Lastly, i thought i heard one time that a tighter gap will make a little more hp but couldnt remember rather it was ore efficient on gas mileage. I will leave at .45 though but just was wondering for reference

 

[revhead347]

The new wires will probably fix the arc, so that's taken care of.

You will need a 3/8-16 tap to fix the header bolts. Try and buy that at Ace Hardware if you can, because they sell American made taps. Most of the other stores sell ones made in China, and you run the risk of breaking it off in the hole because they are made of crap metal.

Generally speaking, as the combustion pressure comes up (more high performance parts) you gap the plugs down to keep the spark from blowing out. I don't think a higher gap helps fuel economy in any measureable way.

Kurt

 

[from6to8]

The new wires will probably fix the arc, so that's taken care of.

You will need a 3/8-16 tap to fix the header bolts. Try and buy that at Ace Hardware if you can, because they sell American made taps. Most of the other stores sell ones made in China, and you run the risk of breaking it off in the hole because they are made of crap metal.

Generally speaking, as the combustion pressure comes up (more high performance parts) you gap the plugs down to keep the spark from blowing out. I don't think a higher gap helps fuel economy in any measureable way.

Kurt

ok yeah what I was looking at in the " Gearwrench" brand we have here at work was a tap. I guess i got it confused with a thread chaser lol. Will it be correct to just thread in hole or start it by hand then put a ratchet on the end and turn, rethreading. I have done some extensive work and over the yrs have learned the ends and outs of being careful, taking my time, ect. I guess the last few days with the fp regulator then the header bolt (though header bolt might have been like that I'm thinking) has just not been too good. Iusually watch a youtube video of something I havent done before just for reference. I do understand the terminology of what has to be done though.

Any idea which number/letter combination on the set is the tap I want to use? There's only a few 3/8 ones in the box 3/8 NC16, 3/8 NF24, and the MM ones

 

[revhead347]

The letters have to do with the type of thread you have. NC stands for American National Course Thread which is what you want. This gives you a table describing the different types of threads.

http://www.newmantools.com/taps/styles.htm

You probably don't have room for a Tap handle in there, so you will have to just thread it in by hand, and use a small wrench to turn it. Lubricate it with WD40 or something. Go slow and turn it back and forth to get a good cut. Then blow out any excess metal shavings that end up there.

GearWrench sounds like a Chinese brand to me. The odds of a metal tap breaking off in aluminum are pretty low. I do know for sure that the Good American ones cut better the first time, and last almost a lifetime. If you two uses out of a Chinese one, you are doing well.

Kurt

 

[g96v6-250k]

if it keeps coming loose use a very very small amount of the blue lok-tite. its great for high vibration areas. NOT the red stuff, that may take the treads out if you every try to loosen it. i would not tap it out unless its the only option for a fix.