Fixed...Electric problem, battery cable touched ground

2003 mustang gt modded

Active Member
Sep 11, 2023
120
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28
Florida
Hi. I recently changed alternator power wire, I didn't have time to put fuse inline

Somehow it came in contact with power steering pulley and was getting sporadic ground.

I fixed the cable and replaced alternator. But car turns off after 20 min of driving. When I let in cool down, it drives again.

If I don't let cool down it cranks but no start.

With hood open it starts after 10 min,
With hood closed it takes much longer.
 
See if the computer will communicate with a scanner or use jumper method to make the check engine light will blink, some years don't have a CEL so use a test light
I suspect a TFI issue but I'd start by checking the computer.
Do this checklist next time it shuts down and won't start.
 
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Thank you. I ordered tfi sensor. New ignition coil too.

With hood open it restarts much faster then hood closed.

Hood closed it will sit there for 30 min without restarting.

Hood open around 8 min.

It's definitely something under hood.

After it restarts it drives for another 20 min before shutting down.

I'll check fuel pressure next time. Maybe fuel pump relay.

I will check spark also.
 
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I'm thinking heat/contact related.

Check [all] of your engine grounds. Loosen, clean, and reinstall each of the grounds strap bolts. Check the starter for burned connections. Bend and move the wires running to and from the starter. Check for burning at the connectors on each end of each of the heavier gauged wires and of course.... Check the condition fit, and finish of the battery terminals.

My guess is that you've got some burned contacts. When everything is cold, you have enough current to roll the starter over... No so much when it's all warmed up.

The trouble is, the longer you run the starter in this low voltage / high current condition, the more likely that it's going to burn up components of its own [if] that hasn't happened already.

So, you have a combination of a weak wiring system causing the burning up of starters. Replacing one or the other might get you by for a bit but I'd tackle the wiring first. Make it 100% and [then] consider replacing the starter.

An inductive current tester might be useful in this scenario. Amazon... Cheap.
 
Found out that my car would stop pinging/knocking with lights turn off. Electrical problem. Lately pinging is became new problem.

Timing was eradic at idle. Was jumping. Maybe my ignition module is acting up.


Anyways car is old, electrical connectors at headlights and tail lights maybe to blame. My license plate light were getting super hot.

Anyone in Orlando area willing to help fixing up my ride?
 
Specific volt readings at idle and at a higher RPM
Example: 13.5 at idle and 14..5 at 2500 RPMs.
To say 'it's charging' is like 'there's air in the tires', when it's 20psi......yup, there's air in there, just not enough.
Diagnosing issues from a keyboard requires specific info.
 
Specific volt readings at idle and at a higher RPM
Example: 13.5 at idle and 14..5 at 2500 RPMs.
To say 'it's charging' is like 'there's air in the tires', when it's 20psi......yup, there's air in there, just not enough.
Diagnosing issues from a keyboard requires specific info.

When did you get a keyboard? :stick: