fixing stripped-out screw holes?

[VTStang66]

I took my interior apart, and of course there are a million little screw holes for the interior panels, and half of them are stripped out and need to be repaired. I'm trying to get suggestions for the best way to do that.

I thought I could maybe hit the edges with a little solder and that would work, but the solder doesn't stick too well so that's out. I have a welder that I just got, so that's an option. The next best idea I could come up with would be to get little squares of thin sheet steel and drill holes in them, then pop rivet them over the old holes. That seems like it would work but it would take forever. Trying to weld them in instead of pop rivets would probably take even longer though, and be a lot harder. My uncle suggested putting JB Weld on the holes before assembly, but that seems like it's asking for trouble when it's time to take it back apart again. Anybody got any creative ideas that would be better/easier/quicker for fixing these screw holes?

 

[Rent-A-Racer]

Actually most vendors sell oversized screws for just such a reason

 

[gjz30075]

I would think the JB Weld would work good. While it is soft, screw in the proper size screw, then, unscrew it and let the JB harden up. I don't know if a screw could cut threads in that stuff when hard. Worth a try.

 

[Sundance]

VT, invest in some small paper clips.

Unbend the paper clips and cut them in half. Bend a small tab and stick the paper clip in the hole. Place the trim over the hole/paper clip and tighten the screw.

 

[68_stanger]

If it were me, I'd see about oversized screws first as this would be easiest, if that woudn't work I'd weld the holes shut then drill/tap new holes. By the way I'd be a lil leary of using pop rivits as if they loosen up its one more rattle you'll have to live with, and or fix.

 

[mustangdave]

I saw an ad somewhere, (maybe Eastwood), that had a pop rivet type insert that had threads of different sizes. It allowed you to install a threaded insert anywhere you wanted. I'll search and let you know.

 

[pabear89]

If your talking about the sheet metal area,
Take a sharp Awl and roll the edge outward.

Then a light tap with the round side of a ballpeen hammer,
tap the hole and replace the screw.

PB

 

[VTStang66]

Actually most vendors sell oversized screws for just such a reason

I looked at NPD and mustangs unlimited, no luck. Who sells those?

 

[mustangdave]

How about this?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...mID=6090&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=thread

 

[mustangdave]

I know that's quite an investment but think of the other uses: stripped out voltage regulator holes, mounting an MSD box, electric fan mounting, amp mounting, etc... Of course, I didn't look at the various sizes, they may be to large.

 

[usedtobe 67p51d]

I had the same problem today!

The riv-nut is for SAE it's not for sheetmetal screws

I'm trying out just poping in poprivots They're made from soft aluminuim...a sheetmetal screw should grab into it and hold fast

as for rattles with the screw holding onto the rivot it should be fine

 

[1320stang]

I'd just hit it with the welder and grind it flat and drill a new hole, shouldn't take but a few seconds, just make sure to mark the hole centerlines so you know where to put the hole centers.

 

[68rustang]

another trick is gob two part epoxy on the screw, insert into the hole and hold in place until dry. When time comes to remove the screw the epoxy stays behind with proper threads and the screw comes right out.

 

[VTStang66]

Lots of good suggestions. I'm really interested in the oversize screws if I can find out who sells them and how much they are. Aside from that, the paper clip idea sounds good if they're not going to break over time (seems like that might be a danger). I haven't messed with the welder yet because I still need to get some gas and metal to practice on, so I don't know if I'll be good enough to fill in those little screw holes without making things worse.

The JB Weld and epoxy solutions sound good too, but the potential for mess and malfunction is there. I don't want to take the screws out one day and find out I've glued the panels in place or I can't get the screws out of the holes.

Does anybody know anything about the oversize screws? Can I get a kit with all the interior screws in it or is it a buy-what-you-need deal?

 

[Ronstang]

I had the same problem today!

The riv-nut is for SAE it's not for sheetmetal screws

I'm trying out just poping in poprivots They're made from soft aluminuim...a sheetmetal screw should grab into it and hold fast

as for rattles with the screw holding onto the rivot it should be fine

I was going to suggest a Riv-Nut too since it is my tool of choice for fixing this problem and has been for 10 years. I realize that the inserts are for SAE threads but that is a PLUS. I drilled out every single sheet metal screw hole in my 57 T-Bird and replaced it with the appropriate sized riv-nut insert (6-32 or 8-32 thread) and then replaced all the chrome sheetmetal screws with stainless steel ones of equivelant size and head type. I buy the SS machine screws in the box of 100 at the wholesale bolt place for $5. They look just like the original but they won't strip out or back out as easily. If you have a troublesome screw that keeps loosening on you then either use loc-tite or insert a piece of 20lb test fishing line to keep it in place. This is the BEST mod I ever came up with for my restorations because at the time I had seen the tool but I had never seen it used to replace sheetmetal trim screws, although I am sure someone had done it before me.

 

[1320stang]

Since the screw holes are typically covered, using flux core really isn't that big of deal here, unless they're REALLY wallered out!!!

 

[VTStang66]

I think I'm going to go with the paper clip method, since it sounds the easiest and simplest. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to do it that way? Do you think they would rattle?

 

[Spanish Dave]

Hi all
I had similar problems with my car ... I was able to overcome the fact that the alloy door sill scuff plates had been removed and then drilled oversize and pop riveted in place ... I found it was possible to move the new plates about a quarter inch and re-drill then fit.
I know that this is not *concours correct* but it is only a daily driver.
on the other hand all the interior screws *bit* into their original holes with just a little bit of *not too much overtightening* ... I'm sure you know what I mean!!
I would go with the *paperclip* route .... as with everything in restoration, if it don't work .... just try something different!!