Flaming River steering box (already used search button)

I did a search and I can't find the answer to this question so I am asking.

I have a flaming river steering box. I need to remove the box. It's a 66 Mustang. I know the original boxes had the shaft integrated. The flaming river box looks like it has a coupler on it that if I can separate would make it easier to remove the box. I really don't want to jack up the engine and deal with that if I can avoid it.

So has anybody removed a FR box without jumping through hoops ?
 
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I didn't remove one, but I installed one where I used to have the long shaft box. I used a '68 column and a coupler. If it looks like this you should be able to remove the two nuts to uncouple it from the column and remove the box with the coupler attached.

Can I ask why you are removing it?

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I did a search and I can't find the answer to this question so I am asking.

I have a flaming river steering box. I need to remove the box. It's a 66 Mustang. I know the original boxes had the shaft integrated. The flaming river box looks like it has a coupler on it that if I can separate would make it easier to remove the box. I really don't want to jack up the engine and deal with that if I can avoid it.

So has anybody removed a FR box without jumping through hoops ?

You don't need to jack the engine for the FR or OEM. If you need, I can elaborate.
 
To answer one question, I am upgrading to power rack and pinion.
I loved the box and it was a huge upgrade from the original box.

It is not a rag joint. There appears to be a coupler connecting the shaft.
A rag joint would be easy.

I'd love to hear how I can remove that box without jacking up the engine so please share.
 
I'd love to hear how I can remove that box without jacking up the engine so please share.

You should be able to remove the steering wheel and steering column to gain access to the FR shaft coupler. If you can then remove the long shaft from the coupler, all you need to do is remove the pittman arm from the box, and remove the box.

It's a little tougher with the OEM long shaft.

Remove, in this order:
1) Steering wheel
2) Drivers seat
3) steering column
4) LH cowl brace or export brace
5) #7 and #8 spark plug
6) LH valve cover
7) Pittman arm
8) Steering gearbox.

On 6 cylinder cars, you can skip 4, 5 & 6.
 
OK, I looked at mine, and there are definitely 2 small roll pins thru the coupler (collar) and the shaft. The pins are small enough to make me believe the shafts are splined, or D shaped or something, so all the pins do is keep them from sliding out of the coupler. Whether you can find enough room to drive the pins out while the box is in the car is debateable. It may be just as easy to pull the whole 42" of shaft.
 
I just installed one. The shaft is splined but not D shaped, so it took a few attempts to get the holes aligned. I bought mine used and the pin that is on the box side of the coupler has a spot weld on it, so I don't know if that's the way they normally come.

Drive the pin out (either one) and leave the steering wheel on to use it as a puller for the shaft. Should come out fairly easily.
 
OK, I looked at mine, and there are definitely 2 small roll pins thru the coupler (collar) and the shaft. The pins are small enough to make me believe the shafts are splined, or D shaped or something, so all the pins do is keep them from sliding out of the coupler. Whether you can find enough room to drive the pins out while the box is in the car is debateable. It may be just as easy to pull the whole 42" of shaft.

That's the trick... I will see if I can get them out while it's in the car. We will see
 
Got it out

Ok guys, got the Flaming river box out

What I did was remove the column...
Unbolted the steering box from the frame.
So then I was able to push the steering box with the shaft attached back towards the firewall.
I pushed the box up against the firewall as tight as I could and then I was able to go inside the car and pop out the roll pin in the coupler.
The shaft detached with no problems (I had a buddy holding the box from under the car)
I was then able to wiggle the box out of the engine bay from underneath...right next to the firewall.
I will say if you have headers it might still be hard to get just the box out but it can be done.


It wasn't that bad and I can reuse the shaft and the box if I want. Chances are I will sell it with the steering linkage.