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Flaming River steering box (already used search button)

  • Thread starter Thread starter 66moneypit
  • Start date Start date Oct 15, 2009
6

66moneypit

Member
Dec 28, 2004
536
0
17
Northern Va
Oct 15, 2009
#1
  • Oct 15, 2009
  • #1
I did a search and I can't find the answer to this question so I am asking.

I have a flaming river steering box. I need to remove the box. It's a 66 Mustang. I know the original boxes had the shaft integrated. The flaming river box looks like it has a coupler on it that if I can separate would make it easier to remove the box. I really don't want to jack up the engine and deal with that if I can avoid it.

So has anybody removed a FR box without jumping through hoops ?
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Oct 16, 2009
#2
  • Oct 16, 2009
  • #2
I didn't remove one, but I installed one where I used to have the long shaft box. I used a '68 column and a coupler. If it looks like this you should be able to remove the two nuts to uncouple it from the column and remove the box with the coupler attached.

Can I ask why you are removing it?



 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Oct 16, 2009
#3
  • Oct 16, 2009
  • #3
The official name for that coupler is "rag joint." If you have one, it can be unbolted to make removing the box easier. Just unbolt it somewhere other than where it attaches to the sector shaft splines to avoid having to realign the wheel.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Oct 16, 2009
#4
  • Oct 16, 2009
  • #4
66moneypit said:
I did a search and I can't find the answer to this question so I am asking.

I have a flaming river steering box. I need to remove the box. It's a 66 Mustang. I know the original boxes had the shaft integrated. The flaming river box looks like it has a coupler on it that if I can separate would make it easier to remove the box. I really don't want to jack up the engine and deal with that if I can avoid it.

So has anybody removed a FR box without jumping through hoops ?
Click to expand...

You don't need to jack the engine for the FR or OEM. If you need, I can elaborate.
 
6

66moneypit

Member
Dec 28, 2004
536
0
17
Northern Va
Oct 19, 2009
#5
  • Oct 19, 2009
  • #5
To answer one question, I am upgrading to power rack and pinion.
I loved the box and it was a huge upgrade from the original box.

It is not a rag joint. There appears to be a coupler connecting the shaft.
A rag joint would be easy.

I'd love to hear how I can remove that box without jacking up the engine so please share.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Oct 19, 2009
#6
  • Oct 19, 2009
  • #6
66moneypit said:
I'd love to hear how I can remove that box without jacking up the engine so please share.
Click to expand...

You should be able to remove the steering wheel and steering column to gain access to the FR shaft coupler. If you can then remove the long shaft from the coupler, all you need to do is remove the pittman arm from the box, and remove the box.

It's a little tougher with the OEM long shaft.

Remove, in this order:
1) Steering wheel
2) Drivers seat
3) steering column
4) LH cowl brace or export brace
5) #7 and #8 spark plug
6) LH valve cover
7) Pittman arm
8) Steering gearbox.

On 6 cylinder cars, you can skip 4, 5 & 6.
 

dharrelson

Member
Nov 10, 2007
36
0
6
Ashtabula Ohio
Oct 19, 2009
#7
  • Oct 19, 2009
  • #7
IIRC, There are 2 roll pins thru the shaft and coupler. I have mine out, I'll try to remember to look at it tommorrow.
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
1,149
2
39
West Texas
Oct 19, 2009
#8
  • Oct 19, 2009
  • #8
So if it's a coupler or U-joint there should be a lock screw or collar bolt in it somewhere.


View attachment 241951



 
6

66moneypit

Member
Dec 28, 2004
536
0
17
Northern Va
Oct 19, 2009
#9
  • Oct 19, 2009
  • #9
dharrelson said:
IIRC, There are 2 roll pins thru the shaft and coupler. I have mine out, I'll try to remember to look at it tommorrow.
Click to expand...

I will pull the column tomorrow and see if there are two roll pins. If that's the case them I should be able to get them out and hopefully get that out.
 

dharrelson

Member
Nov 10, 2007
36
0
6
Ashtabula Ohio
Oct 20, 2009
#10
  • Oct 20, 2009
  • #10
OK, I looked at mine, and there are definitely 2 small roll pins thru the coupler (collar) and the shaft. The pins are small enough to make me believe the shafts are splined, or D shaped or something, so all the pins do is keep them from sliding out of the coupler. Whether you can find enough room to drive the pins out while the box is in the car is debateable. It may be just as easy to pull the whole 42" of shaft.
 
G

gjz30075

Member
Aug 30, 2004
250
0
17
Roswell, Ga
Oct 20, 2009
#11
  • Oct 20, 2009
  • #11
I just installed one. The shaft is splined but not D shaped, so it took a few attempts to get the holes aligned. I bought mine used and the pin that is on the box side of the coupler has a spot weld on it, so I don't know if that's the way they normally come.

Drive the pin out (either one) and leave the steering wheel on to use it as a puller for the shaft. Should come out fairly easily.
 
6

66moneypit

Member
Dec 28, 2004
536
0
17
Northern Va
Oct 20, 2009
#12
  • Oct 20, 2009
  • #12
dharrelson said:
OK, I looked at mine, and there are definitely 2 small roll pins thru the coupler (collar) and the shaft. The pins are small enough to make me believe the shafts are splined, or D shaped or something, so all the pins do is keep them from sliding out of the coupler. Whether you can find enough room to drive the pins out while the box is in the car is debateable. It may be just as easy to pull the whole 42" of shaft.
Click to expand...

That's the trick... I will see if I can get them out while it's in the car. We will see
 
6

66moneypit

Member
Dec 28, 2004
536
0
17
Northern Va
Oct 24, 2009
#13
  • Oct 24, 2009
  • #13
Got it out

Ok guys, got the Flaming river box out

What I did was remove the column...
Unbolted the steering box from the frame.
So then I was able to push the steering box with the shaft attached back towards the firewall.
I pushed the box up against the firewall as tight as I could and then I was able to go inside the car and pop out the roll pin in the coupler.
The shaft detached with no problems (I had a buddy holding the box from under the car)
I was then able to wiggle the box out of the engine bay from underneath...right next to the firewall.
I will say if you have headers it might still be hard to get just the box out but it can be done.


It wasn't that bad and I can reuse the shaft and the box if I want. Chances are I will sell it with the steering linkage.
 
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