Flaming River Tilt Column - Faulty Wiring

washMO66

Founding Member
Oct 30, 2001
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Washington, MO
Ahh my favorite manufacturer Flaming River....tongue in cheek...

My turn signals were acting up and we went though and tested them all out and it seems my turn signal switch in the FR column is bad (what a surprise).

Has anyone else had this problem with the poduct and if so what was the fix?

Thanks in advance for your replies.
 
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wel if the switch is bad you need to replace it...end of story. it's just a simple GM turn signal switch and i'm sure they source it from the cheapest supplier they can.

just get a switch for a late 70's mid 80's gm vehicle with tilt and nothing else, that should be the one you need. say a 79 camaro with tilt, no cruise and wipers on the dash.
 
well camaro didn't work, it has the wipers on the column not the dash. i looked up one for a 79 c-10 pickup and that one has the wipers on the dash.

ac delco parts number 1997985. 29 bucks. also, there should be a part number on the current switch that a good parts guy will be able to crossover to get teh correct switch. the one i listed is a good possibility but may not be the exact same switch. worst case is call flaming river and get the part number from them for a replacement switch.
 
fr column

I had same problem with ididit coumn and (duh).it turned out that the flasher switch which I did not use would kill turn signals if it was pulled out but worked fine when pushed in.I think they use same harness maybe same issue. Good luck
 
I've installed many FR columns and have never had a problem with the TS switch, but I'm sure it can happen. Their wiring instructions are sometimes inaccurate though so I always physically confirm the circuits before making connections. I always s-can that big black GM connector as well and splice the stock or Painless one on.
 
I've installed many FR columns and have never had a problem with the TS switch, but I'm sure it can happen. Their wiring instructions are sometimes inaccurate though so I always physically confirm the circuits before making connections. I always s-can that big black GM connector as well and splice the stock or Painless one on.


That GM connector is a POS, I did my install and found that a few lights were not working. As I went back and checked I found several of the terminals had twisted and shifted inside the plastic connector. I used a Molex 12 pin I bought from a local electronics shop instead, I needed two more since I added the F/R dimmer switch turn signal lever.

Don't get me started on the constuction of that unit, the two wires are thinner than a human hair and you need to feed them thru the column. I was very concerned that the thin insulation would wear thru rubbing against something I couldn't see. I covered the wires with a long piece of heatshrink tubing, made it easier the thread thru and hopefully more durable.