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floor pan replacement questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 3spd on floor
  • Start date Start date Dec 30, 2003
3

3spd on floor

Founding Member
Aug 13, 2002
1,099
0
0
Acworth, GA
Dec 30, 2003
#1
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #1
ok, my front floors are pretty rusty, no huge holes, but the metal is pretty thin and has some pinholes. the rears are pitted a bit and have some rust, but they're solid. i'm planning to replace them all in early january, figure its better to do it right the first time.

should i buy the fronts and rears seperately and only cut out one part at a time, or should i buy the full length pans and do them all at once so there will be less welding to do?

also, i've heard that butt-welding is better, but harder to do. how much harder?

finally, i'm also planning to install subframe connectors, should i do this before or after cutting out the old floors? it seems to me that it would be better to install them before so that they hold the car straight when the floors are cut out...but i've been wrong before....


thanks again guys
 
S

slapper

Founding Member
Mar 6, 2002
447
0
0
Dec 30, 2003
#2
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #2
I always try to leave as much original metal as possible when replacing floors. I have never butt-welded them,(may want consider it on a show car), but leave about up to an inch of overlap, and weld both upper and lower edges.
As far as full length, or 1/2 pans, I guess it depends on how rusted the pans are below the seat platforms. I would put the subframes in before cutting out the floor pans, but that's just me.
I usually do one side at a time.
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
2,458
1
56
North Atlanta
Dec 30, 2003
#3
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #3
3-4" seam welds all the way around will suffice, rather than a butt weld. I suggest getting the full length floor pans. As for subframes, install them before or after, it really doesnt matter, although, you bring up a good point about holding the car straight once you cut the pan out. However, you are really only cutting out out at a time. A 1/2" - 1" overlap of the old and new material is what you want. You can seam weld the inside of the pans (that is covered up with carpet.) However, there is really no need to weld it from underneath your car (except back to your Frame Rails. Use some bodyseam sealer all the way round on the inside of your car....over the welds so it fills in any holes. you can do the same from under the car if you wish.

Good luck!
 

dodgestang

Active Member
Dec 15, 2003
1,360
0
37
Cecil County, MD
Dec 30, 2003
#4
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #4
I'm in agreement with the answer man on this one.
Do the full pans.
1 side at a time.
Subframe bars afterwards.
If you are a tall person, you could also consider moving your seat risers back at this time, or lowering them a little to provide greater clearance between the steering wheel and you and better leg extension.
 
M

Mr44666

Founding Member
Jun 6, 2000
302
0
0
Las Vegas, NV
Dec 30, 2003
#5
  • Dec 30, 2003
  • #5
Have you considered the Por15 Floor pan resto kit? you say it's very solid with some pin holes. I think the kit should take care of that, then you also have rust protection.

-Dave
 
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