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Floor Pan Rot

  • Thread starter Thread starter geordie
  • Start date Start date Jun 21, 2007
G

geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
576
2
19
Jun 21, 2007
#1
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #1
I just got my newly painted car back from the body shop about four weeks ago. I was busy stripping down the dash to add the new wiring harness. Prior to the car going to paint I stripped out all the interior with the exception of some rubber matting which was stuck to the floor in the way of the foot wells.
Referring to the attached photos, I made rather a disturbing discovery yesterday evening. After removing the remains of the interior under carpet rubber mats from the drivers side foot well I discovered a glass fiber repair had been made to the floor pan. I checked under the car and the repair had been filled, sanded and painted by the PO and could not be seen. The glass fiber on the inside was starting to lift away from the floor and when I removed as much as I could I found that an approximately 1.5 inch square hole through the floor pan. The surrounding metal around the hole is pitted.

As I see it, I've got two choices:

1. Replacement of the corroded panel with new metal.
2. Make a new glass fiber repair. I've read good things about POR-15.

I'd prefer to go for the panel replacement but this is going to depend on cost.

I would like to ask you guys for an initial opinion on the way forward. Has anyone got a good idea of price for a partial floor pan replacement. Thanks in advance.
 

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68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Jun 21, 2007
#2
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #2
It's not a structural problem. I would kill the rust (I use phosphoric acid) and patch over it.

We use to use old license plates as patch panels. They don't rust.
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Jun 21, 2007
#3
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #3
I would go with cutting out the corroded material and replace with an aftermarket floor pan patch:

http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=A106ERH+01&Category=&catkey=EMUSTANG

I know it says passenger but just order drivers side.
 

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Jun 21, 2007
#4
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #4
geostang351 said:
I would go with cutting out the corroded material and replace with an aftermarket floor pan patch:

http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=A106ERH+01&Category=&catkey=EMUSTANG

I know it says passenger but just order drivers side.
Click to expand...

+1
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Jun 21, 2007
#5
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #5
haha geordie, our projects are the exact same...
 
G

geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
576
2
19
Jun 21, 2007
#6
  • Jun 21, 2007
  • #6
Yeah, would you believe it. The PO said my car had been in AZ for the last 25 years. I'm starting to wonder now.
 
J

James Kirk

New Member
Jun 3, 2005
44
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0
Jun 22, 2007
#7
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #7
Better check your lower cowl panel. That's usually the cause of the whole problem. Patch all you want. If the cowl is rotted you will only be prolonging the issue.
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Jun 22, 2007
#8
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #8
James Kirk said:
Better check your lower cowl panel. That's usually the cause of the whole problem. Patch all you want. If the cowl is rotted you will only be prolonging the issue.
Click to expand...

I would suggest that too, but the fact he just had the whole exterior painted, I don't think Geordie is looknig to remove the cowl cover to repair this.
 
G

geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
576
2
19
Jun 22, 2007
#9
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #9
It possible to inspect the lower cowl panel from underneath the dash?

If that's not possible then I'll do some water pouring tests through the cowl and find out if it's pouring into the drivers foot well.
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Jun 22, 2007
#10
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #10
where do you guys buy por 15? do local hardware shops have it? osh? home depot? or something? or is it only available online?
 
B

BornInAFord

Member
Apr 22, 2005
199
0
17
Bend, OR 97701
Jun 22, 2007
#11
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #11
Eastwood.com I think is the main (maybe only) place to carry it. They are usually pretty fast at getting things out, so you could have it to your door by next weekend...
Daniel
 

cardude

Founding Member
Apr 20, 2000
221
0
0
Portland, OR
Jun 22, 2007
#12
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #12
If you want to keep the car, do it right and cut/ replace the pannel, its not that expensive. Then if you want to POR15 over it go for it. you can go to a nearby metal place and get 18ga steel and have it bent (or bend over something sturdy).

just my 2cents
 
B

BlwnGazkit

Member
Nov 3, 2006
153
0
16
Richmond, VA
Jun 22, 2007
#13
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #13
Even if you replace the panel I'd recommend POR15 on the new metal. It will help prevent future issues.
 
S

smitzer

Founding Member
Sep 23, 2000
100
0
16
Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 22, 2007
#14
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #14
My cowl is pretty tight but I found my leak at the top of the windshield. Might check there too.
 

SHIFTY101EASY

New Member
Feb 24, 2006
129
0
0
Jun 22, 2007
#15
  • Jun 22, 2007
  • #15
http://www.stoprust.net/
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Jun 25, 2007
#16
  • Jun 25, 2007
  • #16
geordie said:
It possible to inspect the lower cowl panel from underneath the dash?

If that's not possible then I'll do some water pouring tests through the cowl and find out if it's pouring into the drivers foot well.
Click to expand...

You can but you can't see around the entire vent as there is too much in the way. But obvious rust can be seen and if it is noticebale could be a bad sign. You will at LEAST see surface rust.
 
G

geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
576
2
19
Jun 26, 2007
#17
  • Jun 26, 2007
  • #17
I spoke to the body shop guy at the weekend. I have three alternatives:
1. Lap weld in a new foot well panel, this will be visable from below.
2. Butt weld a new foot well panel, this will be dressed and will be an almost invisible repair.
3. Glass fiber repair followed by sprayed on bed liner coating of chassis and interior floor.
Right now I favor (2) but much wilkl depand on price. I'm expecting a quote soon.
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Jun 26, 2007
#18
  • Jun 26, 2007
  • #18
Really? hmm, I decided to go with the POR 15 method
 

Platonic Solid

Founding Member
May 29, 2002
1,960
5
39
CT-USA
Jun 27, 2007
#19
  • Jun 27, 2007
  • #19
geordie said:
I spoke to the body shop guy at the weekend. I have three alternatives:
1. Lap weld in a new foot well panel, this will be visable from below.
2. Butt weld a new foot well panel, this will be dressed and will be an almost invisible repair.
3. Glass fiber repair followed by sprayed on bed liner coating of chassis and interior floor.
Right now I favor (2) but much wilkl depand on price. I'm expecting a quote soon.
Click to expand...
But what were the results of your cowl leak test?
 
G

geordie

Founding Member
May 10, 2002
576
2
19
Jun 27, 2007
#20
  • Jun 27, 2007
  • #20
Still got to get to that. Temperatures out here in Tucson are about 105 to 110 F and I can't summon up enough energy to go in the garage during the evening.
 
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