Floorpan replacement. ...*pics added*
- Thread starter mustangman70
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Like I said before as many as you can get but I would at least put one in front and behind each tire at the ends of the sub frame and some where along the rocker. If you want to add more, I would also support the weight of the suspension but I would try to get it to a neutral balance point with no compression and no hang. Support at the Trans cross member and additional points on the rocker as well as at the radiator support. I am very paranoid and with the pan totally gone, the car has the ability to flex and shift and once the new pan is welded in that is what it will be. As always, a frame jig is best but it can be done with jack stand and a level floor.mustangman70 said:
Again, this is why I chose the cut and patch method I think the one-piece will look better one installed but the work to complete was more than I was willing to do. I decided to patch them using but welds then grind them down and they look good. I am also thinking of spraying it with lizard skin inside and out if I do that no one would ever know unless I tell them. In addition, the difference in cost between the one piece and the patch panels offset the cost of the sound deadener and I was going to add some sort of deadener anyway.
Yah the full pans are just between the rocker and trans tunnel. I found that the material under the seat pan was also in very good condition. But ever if you chose to do full's the risk is much smaller. As the trans tunnel and other side help to keep it square while you work.mustangman70 said:
Yah get the carpet out and put a drop light under the car at night. this is the best way i found to tell what condition a section was in.mustangman70 said:Well ****.... i only have two jack stands lol....time to buy a bunch more....
Well all i can hope for is that the trannie tunnel isnt rusted...i havent got the carpet out yet.
But i think im leaning toweds going with two fulls instead of the one piece.... i dont want to twist the car up
Thank you so much for all the help jester....and everyone else too!
Its amazing how awsome this site is when it comes to classic tech, and any other tech issues for any year car....but this classic section is amazing, allmost EVERYTHING i have learned about my car has either came from my personal trials and errors or the help from this site...WOOOOOOOT (ok sorry i just had to say that lol)
so lets say the trannie tunnel IS rusted....should i still do it section by section ya think?
Its amazing how awsome this site is when it comes to classic tech, and any other tech issues for any year car....but this classic section is amazing, allmost EVERYTHING i have learned about my car has either came from my personal trials and errors or the help from this site...WOOOOOOOT (ok sorry i just had to say that lol)
so lets say the trannie tunnel IS rusted....should i still do it section by section ya think?
I guess for me it depends on how bad it is rusted. My guess is that the tunnel is ok but I would check. If it is trashed and the pans are to then the car has twisted and will need a frame shop and jig before I would weld in the new pans and if its on a jig then I would go for the one piece. Otherwise, if it were just one or two spots I would patch them.
Pull the carpet and check it out if you have questions then post some pics and I am sure options as to the best way to repair it will be offered.
Pull the carpet and check it out if you have questions then post some pics and I am sure options as to the best way to repair it will be offered.
I can't really help with how to support the car... I had mine on a frame rack!! 
The car was fully supported since we also did firewall, torque boxes, complete floor pan, rear left quater, and front left fender! But all the sheet metal is good now and the 67 S code is all patched up now.
While you have the car apart, you might also consider a subframe brace. I put in a TCP subframe brace in my 67 and that strengthened and straightened things right up.
The car was fully supported since we also did firewall, torque boxes, complete floor pan, rear left quater, and front left fender! But all the sheet metal is good now and the 67 S code is all patched up now.While you have the car apart, you might also consider a subframe brace. I put in a TCP subframe brace in my 67 and that strengthened and straightened things right up.
A frame jig is a is a sub structure that you attach a car to “ usually through welding “that will hold it in place while you make structural modifications. Once attached you could cut the car in half and its orientation would not change. It also gives you points of reference for taking measurements I do not mean to worry you again I think your trans tunnel will be fine.
As for the stands, I got a good deal on some from SAMS club of all places but shop around and you can find a good deal.
As for the stands, I got a good deal on some from SAMS club of all places but shop around and you can find a good deal.
My .02 is that if you are unfamiliar enough with bodywork that you cannot figure out how to remove glass, then you should not be attempting a full floor without a LOT of expert (mustang knowleageable) help. Removing the full floor removes a great deal of the Mustang's structure. Do it wrong and the car could literally collapse. This is not a superficial skin. This is a structural component and forms the basis of the Mustang "chassis".
Another thing is, most floorpans begin to disintegrate because of water leaking thru the cowl. If the floors are that far gone, chances are the car has other issues too. Cowls are another repair where you will need expert assistance if you are not familiar with the structure.
Definitely get the carpet out and inspect. Most cars don't really need full floors and the tunnel will be intact. The job is still intensive, but not so hard as the full floor.
Another thing is, most floorpans begin to disintegrate because of water leaking thru the cowl. If the floors are that far gone, chances are the car has other issues too. Cowls are another repair where you will need expert assistance if you are not familiar with the structure.
Definitely get the carpet out and inspect. Most cars don't really need full floors and the tunnel will be intact. The job is still intensive, but not so hard as the full floor.
Thanks jack.... iwill be taking some pictures hopefully today of evrything...
Keep in mind i would probably have NO probl;em getting the glass out or anything else for that matter...with out EVER touching a motor before at the age of 16 i dropped a motor and a trans in this thing by myself..
I just like asking for advice and tips so i get it right the first time...i can do anything i put my mind too wether it is body work or mechanical or electical..
Keep in mind i would probably have NO probl;em getting the glass out or anything else for that matter...with out EVER touching a motor before at the age of 16 i dropped a motor and a trans in this thing by myself..
I just like asking for advice and tips so i get it right the first time...i can do anything i put my mind too wether it is body work or mechanical or electical..
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
man...where do I start?? Lots of good into but you need more before starting the process.
man oh man...floorpans. Big undertaking. First is supporting the car the right way. There is a recommended 7 points (I forget where the article is) but its recommended having the car supported in 7 spots to do floorpans. Im gonna say the 7 are:
Front and back parts of the front frame rails
transmission crossmember
2 in the back near the rear wheels
The back end of the car is more supported while replacing floorpans than the front is and is why I recommend 4 up front. Once the car goes on the stands, it probably shouldnt come off
Cutting... man does it suck. Tons of spot welds on the frame rails up front and cutting out the seatpans and the lip of the floorpan along the rocker is very tedious. Just remember this is going to take a while. If you are not concerned at the look, I recommend cutting below about 1/2-1" on the trans tunnel. You will have an overlap which makes it a lot easier> I wouldnt try and buttweld it without multiple cuts slowly taking away metal to line up the floors. Some people say you need to weld the whole seam but I have been in many cars where they stitch about 1" every other inch and it seems to be just fine. Clean the areas you are going to weld really well with sandpaper or a grinder so you get good clean welds. Dont try and weld over rust and that black coating on the new pans... it makes life hardner and you have about 20' of welds to make. You can drill the new pans along the lip line of the front frame rails or you can just weld it from underneath. I prefer to weld the bottom side and do the same 1" stitch every other inch.
man oh man...floorpans. Big undertaking. First is supporting the car the right way. There is a recommended 7 points (I forget where the article is) but its recommended having the car supported in 7 spots to do floorpans. Im gonna say the 7 are:
Front and back parts of the front frame rails
transmission crossmember
2 in the back near the rear wheels
The back end of the car is more supported while replacing floorpans than the front is and is why I recommend 4 up front. Once the car goes on the stands, it probably shouldnt come off
Cutting... man does it suck. Tons of spot welds on the frame rails up front and cutting out the seatpans and the lip of the floorpan along the rocker is very tedious. Just remember this is going to take a while. If you are not concerned at the look, I recommend cutting below about 1/2-1" on the trans tunnel. You will have an overlap which makes it a lot easier> I wouldnt try and buttweld it without multiple cuts slowly taking away metal to line up the floors. Some people say you need to weld the whole seam but I have been in many cars where they stitch about 1" every other inch and it seems to be just fine. Clean the areas you are going to weld really well with sandpaper or a grinder so you get good clean welds. Dont try and weld over rust and that black coating on the new pans... it makes life hardner and you have about 20' of welds to make. You can drill the new pans along the lip line of the front frame rails or you can just weld it from underneath. I prefer to weld the bottom side and do the same 1" stitch every other inch.
Thanks ALOT xoxbxfx i was wondering what the points for the jack stands were
Im not concerned at the look at all....If this were going to be a show car...or was a fastback or a boss/mach/shelby etc i probably wouldent be doing this myself lol but the car is mainly going to see some local shows and the strip and local street races most of the time lol
So would you recomend doing the one piece pan or do the full pans....... I guess im not sure exactly how bad the floow is...but i KNOW the whole driver side is ****....the passenger side may be allright.
Also i have some decant sized holes in the trunk floor also...is this hard to do? obviously the rear end would need to come out but thats fine since i plan on rebuilding it anyways.
Im not concerned at the look at all....If this were going to be a show car...or was a fastback or a boss/mach/shelby etc i probably wouldent be doing this myself lol but the car is mainly going to see some local shows and the strip and local street races most of the time lol
So would you recomend doing the one piece pan or do the full pans....... I guess im not sure exactly how bad the floow is...but i KNOW the whole driver side is ****....the passenger side may be allright.
Also i have some decant sized holes in the trunk floor also...is this hard to do? obviously the rear end would need to come out but thats fine since i plan on rebuilding it anyways.
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
mustangman70 said:
I would do full length not a single entire floor. The cost alone is the big factor. Usually the trans tunnel isnt rusted or anything. I wouldnt mess with it just cause its a PITA. Just patch what you need, why fix whats not bad.
The floor is like a 69... its made of like 3 panels that make up the floor. Its not to bad. Cutting is what sucks. If its a few localized holes in the trunk, I'd patch it with small patches. Can you get some pics of the rust issues?
Yes i can... i was supposed to for the last two days
But my neigbor has the digi cam and she has came home past dark the past two nights...
I know on the driver sigh....wight underneath the seat theres some decant rust...it dosent look liek its ALL the way though however.....think it may just be surface rust?
And also, should i coat the inside and the bottom with anything liek POR15 or anything when im done?
But my neigbor has the digi cam and she has came home past dark the past two nights...
I know on the driver sigh....wight underneath the seat theres some decant rust...it dosent look liek its ALL the way though however.....think it may just be surface rust?
And also, should i coat the inside and the bottom with anything liek POR15 or anything when im done?
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