Hey guys new to this app but I joined anyway looking for some insight I have a 94 5.0 5 speed pretty much stock other than a bbk mild cam and underdrive pulleys McLeod clutch 3.73 rear anyway I have a kenne bell flowzilla for the sn95 and I was curious what else I need/ have ti do to install and drive . I have the whole complete twin screw too the bbk throttle body 75mm and the lower manifold so I can physically bolt it on but would it just run or?
SN95 Flowzilla
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Couple of articles on the install that may clue you in on what else you will need.
kennebell.net
Theard on an install here:
stangnet.com
Return of Foxzilla by KJ Jones
It really is amazing how fast '11-'12 Mustangs such as GTs, Boss 302s, Cobra Jets, and the recently unveiled '13 Shelby GT500 (yeah, the 'Stang with
kennebell.net
Theard on an install here:
Forced Induction - Planning Kenne Bell Install-what Else Will I Need?
Planning to do a KB install in the next few months. I'm running stock HCI, a few minor mods listed in the sig below that were installed by the PO (also have underdrive pulley kit). I'll probably order the KB CAI kit. From researching on here, I understand that I need to upgrade my fuel...
stangnet.com
The pulley that's on that blower looks to be the smallest you can get. If it were me, I'd start with a larger (less boost) pulley and move up to that one.
Parts suggestion:
42 lb/hr injectors
Your tuning method of choice
Walbro 225L/hr high-pressure in-tank pump
These two items will keep your coil and your fuel pump power-saturated:
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark
Optional:
Wide-band O2 sensor and gauge
Parts suggestion:
42 lb/hr injectors
Your tuning method of choice
Walbro 225L/hr high-pressure in-tank pump
These two items will keep your coil and your fuel pump power-saturated:
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark
Optional:
Wide-band O2 sensor and gauge
If you are going to run a 255 lph pump I would strongly encourage you to install a 30 amp relay to power the pump. Run a 10 ga. wire from the battery to the trunk (fuse it). Use the 12V+ power from the pump side of the inertia switch to trigger the relay.
With that you may also want to modify how the fuel returns to the tank on the fuel pump hanger itself. You are going to be in the fuel tank to replace the pump so I would do this for sure. Best way to describe it is look how this guy modified his:
View: https://youtu.be/lEYD5-plOUs
Pro-M really shows what happens in this video:
View: https://youtu.be/3osqtEtIEig
I ended up with the Pro-M hanger as I went with AN6 feed and return lines on my car to ensure the fuel supply was no longer an issue.
With that you may also want to modify how the fuel returns to the tank on the fuel pump hanger itself. You are going to be in the fuel tank to replace the pump so I would do this for sure. Best way to describe it is look how this guy modified his:
View: https://youtu.be/lEYD5-plOUs
Pro-M really shows what happens in this video:
View: https://youtu.be/3osqtEtIEig
I ended up with the Pro-M hanger as I went with AN6 feed and return lines on my car to ensure the fuel supply was no longer an issue.
Don't add any relays if you choose to run a Boost-a-Pump (BAP). It will power the pump. Just install as specified.
Additionally, the new fuel hanger seems like a good idea. I do not, however, have one of these. One of the functions of the (BAP) is to control fuel volume from the pump. Adjusted correctly, the return should not be nearly as violent as what I saw in the video above. That said, if this were available when I did my fuel system, I might have gone that way.
The thing is: You do [not] need to get elaborate with this install. The entire kit functions brilliantly on an otherwise stock engine with minimum mods. A whole new fuel system is not necessary and scope creep can bury you.
Additionally, the new fuel hanger seems like a good idea. I do not, however, have one of these. One of the functions of the (BAP) is to control fuel volume from the pump. Adjusted correctly, the return should not be nearly as violent as what I saw in the video above. That said, if this were available when I did my fuel system, I might have gone that way.
The thing is: You do [not] need to get elaborate with this install. The entire kit functions brilliantly on an otherwise stock engine with minimum mods. A whole new fuel system is not necessary and scope creep can bury you.
The pump hanger "modification" it literally $5 so I would not call that scope creep IF you are going to get into the tank to move up to a 255 lph or larger pump.
For me the $300 or so for a boost-a-pump vs. the $120 for a new 255 lph high pressure pump moved me right over to a new pump. Add $50 for a relay and wiring and that would put you at $175 for all the fuel you will need for this setup. I am pretty sure the stock fuel pump is 95 lph in the 94-95 cars so with the boost-a-pump you would get around 151 lph at 17V+.
If that is enough and you do not want to drop the tank then the boost-a-pump is the way to go.
For me the $300 or so for a boost-a-pump vs. the $120 for a new 255 lph high pressure pump moved me right over to a new pump. Add $50 for a relay and wiring and that would put you at $175 for all the fuel you will need for this setup. I am pretty sure the stock fuel pump is 95 lph in the 94-95 cars so with the boost-a-pump you would get around 151 lph at 17V+.
If that is enough and you do not want to drop the tank then the boost-a-pump is the way to go.
To be clear: I wasn't suggesting a BAP vs. 255L. I'm suggesting a BAP [and] 255L HP pump. The BAP is nothing more than an adjustable voltage regulator. Same with the Spark.
Windshield wipers, radios, headlights, etc..., won't matter anymore. The voltage of these things remains at a conditioned constant. The adjustability is a bonus.
Windshield wipers, radios, headlights, etc..., won't matter anymore. The voltage of these things remains at a conditioned constant. The adjustability is a bonus.
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