FMS 65TB Now High Idle

The VSS is designed to keep the idle up a little higher while moving down the road.

Your base idle probably needs to be adjusted a little. Try searching for tips on how to set your base idle.

Does the new TB have a hole in the butterfly?

You have two means of adjusting the idle on your 95 - the idle stop screw and the IAC bleed adjuster. I have been farting around with the adjustments myself. You could try running the bleed back in a little if the idle hangs ever so slightly while stationary and revving (the VSS input will exacerbate the issue).

This is pretty common for SN95s. A member named R.J. (that is his username) just made a batch of idle plates and mailed them to stangers for testing. Some people who had hanging idles after HCI's report that the plate can help (you could make the plate pretty easily).

Good luck.

95GTV8 said:

what exactly is the butterfly? I know of the base idle screw, what is the iac bleed control?

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Did you clear the computer before installing the TB. Sometimes when you're replacing things it helps to disconnect the batter for 30 minutes before starting the car again.
Tim

95GTV8 said:

what exactly is the butterfly? I know of the base idle screw, what is the iac bleed control?

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I call the TB blade a butterfly (I am old school). Some TB blades have a hole in them, and this will raise the idle in and of itself.

Always check your TPS after installing a new TB or messing with the TPS. It should toss a code if it is unable to zero out the reading, but I dont hold my breath for that to happen.

A bad TPS can cause a hanging idle (TPS's dont fail that often though). Or you can find a hanging idle which returns to normal simply by shutting the car off and restarting it.

To clear the KAM, you can simply disconnect the battery and put your foot on the brake pedal for 5 seconds or so - this draw will discharge the capacitors in the KAM. That just saves some time.

Like Tim said, It is always good to clear the KAM after a new component is installed.

The idle can be controlled manually via the set screw (idle stop screw) and the IAC bleed. The bleed is on the front side of the IAC and has a rubber plug on it. Remove the plug and you will see an Allen-head screw in there. You can turn the screw to change the idle setting (loosen = higher idle/more air being bypassed. Tighten = lower idle, less air bypassing). If you loosen the screw too much, it will act like you have a vac leak and the idle will hang.

Good luck.

Hey man, I tried to reply to your PM and I cant send it because your PM box is full.