FMS 65TB Now High Idle

95GTV8

New Member
Jul 25, 2005
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Washington State
I just put on a FMS 65mm tb, and now i have a high idle, when i turn the car on it turns on fine, and it idles round 1200, but when im driving let's say 60mph and i put it in neutral the idle stays around 1500 rpm, the slower im moving in neutral the lower the idle goes, is it just a simple turn of the idle screw down to fix my idle problem, or is their another underlying issue?
 
The VSS is designed to keep the idle up a little higher while moving down the road.

Your base idle probably needs to be adjusted a little. Try searching for tips on how to set your base idle.
 
allright, i know how to reset my base idle, when i turn the car on and im not moving it idles around 1k which is fine, but if im going down the road fast, and i put it in neutral the idle is around ~1300, with my old TB, if i did the same thing the idle would go back down to 900, is it just the base idle difference in the throttle bodies which is causing this? or is their something else dif in the tb's.
 
Does the new TB have a hole in the butterfly?

You have two means of adjusting the idle on your 95 - the idle stop screw and the IAC bleed adjuster. I have been farting around with the adjustments myself. You could try running the bleed back in a little if the idle hangs ever so slightly while stationary and revving (the VSS input will exacerbate the issue).

This is pretty common for SN95s. A member named R.J. (that is his username) just made a batch of idle plates and mailed them to stangers for testing. Some people who had hanging idles after HCI's report that the plate can help (you could make the plate pretty easily).

Good luck.
 
95GTV8 said:
what exactly is the butterfly? I know of the base idle screw, what is the iac bleed control?
I call the TB blade a butterfly (I am old school). Some TB blades have a hole in them, and this will raise the idle in and of itself.

Always check your TPS after installing a new TB or messing with the TPS. It should toss a code if it is unable to zero out the reading, but I dont hold my breath for that to happen.

A bad TPS can cause a hanging idle (TPS's dont fail that often though). Or you can find a hanging idle which returns to normal simply by shutting the car off and restarting it.

To clear the KAM, you can simply disconnect the battery and put your foot on the brake pedal for 5 seconds or so - this draw will discharge the capacitors in the KAM. That just saves some time.

Like Tim said, It is always good to clear the KAM after a new component is installed.

The idle can be controlled manually via the set screw (idle stop screw) and the IAC bleed. The bleed is on the front side of the IAC and has a rubber plug on it. Remove the plug and you will see an Allen-head screw in there. You can turn the screw to change the idle setting (loosen = higher idle/more air being bypassed. Tighten = lower idle, less air bypassing). If you loosen the screw too much, it will act like you have a vac leak and the idle will hang.

Good luck.