FMS B spring install

WhiteFizzo

Founding Member
May 17, 2000
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Virginia Beach Va
I just installed a set of FMS B springs with prothane insulators, should the front of the car sit this low and is this this too much camber on the wheels. When I drive there is no bump steer. Just wondering.






Ike

:shrug:
 
Sorry about the pics. As soon as I posted the previous message my wife came and informed me it was time to go to Walmart. So, let me try again.

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The tires arent rubbing, but I thought the drop for the B springs wouldn't be this dramatic. Do I need to think about cc plates and offset steering rack bushings? I went with the B springs in order to try and avoid having to change the steering geometry.

Any suggestions?
 
so much for that 3/4 inch drop that they advertise for b and c springs they seem to always drop the front over an inch definately get you some c/c plates and offset steering rack bushings, well worth the investment or else your going to eat up the inner tread on your tires
 
I have the C springs in mine and it doesn't look NEAR as low as yours... Which ones are advertised to have more of a drop? I guess it must be the B's... I don't have any rubbing issues 'cept for when I go over any harsh bumps at speeds higher than like 35mph... and even then it's only rubbing on the inner fender well... I don't notice any irregular wear on the tires either.

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B and C give the same drop, its just that the C's are stiffer and specific rate, as is the B's are not

Give it a week for the back to settle, and it wouldn't hurt to throw on some C/C plates and fix your alignment woes
 
I've got the "B" springs on my Cobra without caster/camber plates. Go to an alignment shop and have them check the alignment. If it's off, it'll be well worth the investment to have it reset. It's possible that you may need caster/camber plates.

After installing my "B" springs and 90/10's in the front, I invested $40.00 for a front end alignment and the shop had no problems dialing it in. I've got approximately 11,000 miles on the tires and they're showing no wear whatsoever.

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WhiteFizzo said:
Sorry about the pics. As soon as I posted the previous message my wife came and informed me it was time to go to Walmart. So, let me try again.

The tires arent rubbing, but I thought the drop for the B springs wouldn't be this dramatic. Do I need to think about cc plates and offset steering rack bushings? I went with the B springs in order to try and avoid having to change the steering geometry.

Any suggestions?

Are you running 245/ 50 or 55 series tires up front? If so then that is why it looks so low.
 
WhiteFizzo said:
Im running 245/50's all the way around.

That's the problem. I ran a 225/50/16 for a long time with these springs and it never looked that low (now I run 18s and Eibachs so different story). The 225/50 have a OD of 24.9" and your 245/50 have a OD of 25.6". That means you tire is .35" closer to the fender that the 225/50. There is nothing wrong with your springs, your front tire is too big IMO.
 
WhiteFizzo said:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but a front end alignment wont be enough to correct the negative camber. I'm going to need cc plates for that. Right?

yes, it is set from the factory with rivets in the shock tower. You can drill them out and attempt to set it but it is unlikely you will have enought adjustment. Did it right and get some CC plates.
 
I put the B's on mine too and got a pretty stout rake outta the deal. I also need CC plates since i am killing the inside of my tires. I just deflated them a little to relieve some of the edge pressure....for now

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Mine did look like that when I first did it tho. You need to loosen the stock CC plates and pull em all the way to the outside...drilling the rivets if necessary. I also had "smaller" bolts with little nubs on em holding my struts on. I was informed by the dealer that these are for minor adjustment, sorta like a knee....moving the wheels more verticle.
 
1 - Your tires aren't too tall ... 25.6 to 25.7" is the factory tire height.
2 - 'B' springs are progressive rate and will compress more than the specific rate 'C's when front end weight is rested upon them giving your car a lower drop ... especially so with iron heads and all accessories
3 - To level your ride height, buy some weight jacker control arms for the rear ... this will also distribute the total vehicle weight a bit too.
4 - Buy C/C plates and offset rack bushings ...
5 - Peace homie.
 
CoupedUp said:
1 - Your tires aren't too tall ... 25.6 to 25.7" is the factory tire height.

I said his tires are too tall IMO b/c when I did my FMS springs my tire sat further away from the fender well. Additionally, the factory size tires obviously didn't come with B springs. We can agree to disagree, but IMO that tire is too tall.
 
tunedin302 said:
I said his tires are too tall IMO b/c when I did my FMS springs my tire sat further away from the fender well. Additionally, the factory size tires obviously didn't come with B springs. We can agree to disagree, but IMO that tire is too tall.

Sure ... for the drop they may be "too tall" ...
Running a shorter sidewall, like a 225/50 on the front, will also drop the chassis a little closer to the ground as well.

I personally run 225/55s on the front and 245/50's on the rear of one of my Stangs. The wider 245's he has now up front aren't horrible, but will rub the plastic more than a narrower 225 will on ponies.

The reason I wouldn't want to run shorter tires on all four is because it throws the speedo off a little more ... I'm a.r. about that kinda stuff. Also with shorter walls, up front only, the car looks like Scooby Doo's Speed Buggy ((ralph))