FMU removal

RayBrian

New Member

Apr 7, 2004

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May 7, 2004

#1

• May 7, 2004

• #1

FMU removal, how?

after doing my research on the forums I found out that I no longer need the vortech FMU as i have 30lb injectors, calibrated pro-m MAF, (and also a vortech adjustable FPR if that matters?)

all this on a 92 lx notch 5.0 with V1-S Trim and all bolt ons, stock h/c

so, I know nothing about this FMU, I just need to know what to disconnect and where to connect it...
the more info the better! or pics =)

Thanks again for any help/responses,
Brian

 

RydeOn

Licensed to Chill

Founding Member

Sep 26, 2000

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orange county, CA

May 7, 2004

#2

• May 7, 2004

• #2

This is what you do. On the bottom of the FMU are two fuel lines. Follow them down to the area where your smog pump and alternator are. Using a special disconnect tool, disconnect the fuel lines that go to the FMU. Now reconnect those lines back together. After this you disconnect the vacuum line from the top of the FMU and plug it or bypass it.

 

S

speedytang

Founding Member

Jul 28, 1999

765

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Marengo,Ohio,US

May 7, 2004

#3

• May 7, 2004

• #3

If you only have 30lb injectors I hope your not running more than 6psi or you will run out of fuel. The FPR will only give you a 1:1 ratio and that will not be enough additional fuel for anything over 6psi.

 

RydeOn

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Sep 26, 2000

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orange county, CA

May 7, 2004

#4

• May 7, 2004

• #4

The 30s will run well into the 370-380 rwhp range. All he has to do is turn up the base pressure a little bit. And make sure to do it on a dyno.

 

blown93feature

New Member

Dec 9, 2003

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living on edge like the motor

May 7, 2004

#5

• May 7, 2004

• #5

I beg to differ with you on the capabilities of 30"s,they are good enough for just about 600 fwh and so isn't the factory fuel rails for that matter so he shouldn't have an issue with up to around 10 psi.I would say he needs to make sure that he has enough pump to supply the injectors and bump his fpr up a little but outside of that he will be fine I would also tune on the dyno to try and get that optimum 12/1 to 13/1 to keep her safe on wot

 

RydeOn

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Sep 26, 2000

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orange county, CA

May 7, 2004

#6

• May 7, 2004

• #6

I wasnt disagreeing in fact it makes me happy to hear I underestimated the 30's. I'd rather go for those cuse they are so much cheaper.

 

RayBrian

New Member

Apr 7, 2004

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May 8, 2004

#7

• May 8, 2004

• #7

alright, well I got my FMU disconnected and out of there, now however i'm having idle problems, MAF?? it still might not be calibrated for my 30lb injectors, my remote optimizer is on the way to make sure and calibrate the MAF correctly, and be able to adjust lean/rich conditions. Is there something else i need to check that might be giving the idle probs? such as the BBK adjustable FPR?
Thanks,
Brian

 

P

PRO50SC

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Dec 28, 2003

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Olney, Maryland

May 8, 2004

#8

• May 8, 2004

• #8

I would leave the FMU on there. I have a Procharger w/ 9lb boost. 30# injectors. Had the car dyno tuned a couple weeks back. I asked my tuner about removing the FMU and he said to leave it on. The car has no drivability issues so i took his advice and left it on there. I believe he told me unless I was running either 36 or 42's (can't remeber which) to leave it on there. The engine needs the extra fuel/pressure to feed the blower.