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Foghorn, Edbert, anyone else who's done an Autometer install...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68stang351
  • Start date Start date Jan 26, 2007

68stang351

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
850
9
39
Savoy TX
Jan 26, 2007
#1
  • Jan 26, 2007
  • #1
I need help. Basically, I need to know if you guys (67-68 owners) had interference problems with your speedo/tach and the brace in the dash that supports the steering column, and if so, how did you deal with it.



Here's the back story.
A couple of years ago I bought a full set of Autometer in dash gauges and installed them onto the back of my original bezel. I wasn't happy with the way I had them attached and when they were in the car the bezel set just a little too far out away from the dash.
Now I've got everything the way I want it except for the bezel still doesn't want to go all the way back. It lacks maybe a 1/4 inch, but it bugs me. I even took the (Autometer gauges) bezel off the speedo and tach, so that the glass mounts right to the factory bezel.

If I lay my bezel face down on the table with the openings for the speedo and tach being flat on the table, the back of the gauges are 3 3/4" (4 3/4 with the light plugs) from the measuring surface.

Can anyone help me?
I'm trying to do this right this time around.
Thanks
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Jan 26, 2007
#2
  • Jan 26, 2007
  • #2
68stang351 said:
I need help. Basically, I need to know if you guys (67-68 owners) had interference problems with your speedo/tach and the brace in the dash that supports the steering column, and if so, how did you deal with it.



Here's the back story.
A couple of years ago I bought a full set of Autometer in dash gauges and installed them onto the back of my original bezel. I wasn't happy with the way I had them attached and when they were in the car the bezel set just a little too far out away from the dash.
Now I've got everything the way I want it except for the bezel still doesn't want to go all the way back. It lacks maybe a 1/4 inch, but it bugs me. I even took the (Autometer gauges) bezel off the speedo and tach, so that the glass mounts right to the factory bezel.

If I lay my bezel face down on the table with the openings for the speedo and tach being flat on the table, the back of the gauges are 3 3/4" (4 3/4 with the light plugs) from the measuring surface.

Can anyone help me?
I'm trying to do this right this time around.
Thanks
Click to expand...

I'm a little scared now!! I just put my Auto meter gauges in my bezel, did the wirnig but have not tried to fir tehm in the dash. I better go try this our. Maybe grinding some of this dash away may help

 

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68stang351

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
850
9
39
Savoy TX
Jan 30, 2007
#3
  • Jan 30, 2007
  • #3
It's o.k., I've figured it out and fixed it already. I had a srew on the back of the bezel (about where 140 is on the speedo) that was hitting the outer part of the dash and not letting the bezel go back any further.
Here's mine, sorry for the crappy quality, it was taken from a cell phone.



BTW, could I see pics of the back of your gauges?
 

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geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Jan 31, 2007
#4
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #4
68stang351 said:
It's o.k., I've figured it out and fixed it already. I had a srew on the back of the bezel (about where 140 is on the speedo) that was hitting the outer part of the dash and not letting the bezel go back any further.
Here's mine, sorry for the crappy quality, it was taken from a cell phone.
Click to expand...
I think I have a problem with the metal supports within the dash itself that would hit the speedo. Have to look further. I'mm working on my rear end and the entire car is jacked up 12", too unsafe to work on the dash right now.


68stang351 said:
BTW, could I see pics of the back of your gauges?
Click to expand...


Here are some photos of the rear gauges with the wires removed and with the stock harness attached. It appears I can run the stock harness with these gauges (I think)





 

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68stang351

Founding Member
May 16, 2002
850
9
39
Savoy TX
Feb 1, 2007
#5
  • Feb 1, 2007
  • #5
Thanks, its very similar to how I have mine set up. Now I wish I could remember what I did with the stock harness and backing plate piece. I stashed them somewhere 2 years ago, and I'm wanting to use them now, like you did.
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Feb 1, 2007
#6
  • Feb 1, 2007
  • #6
68stang351 said:
Thanks, its very similar to how I have mine set up. Now I wish I could remember what I did with the stock harness and backing plate piece. I stashed them somewhere 2 years ago, and I'm wanting to use them now, like you did.
Click to expand...

Here is my write up on cardomain, if your interested. I haven't yet finished the write up but it gives you the idea. More pictures to the write up as well.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2517204/3


I think you need the metal backing plate to actually secure the pastic bezel and all your gauges to the dash. How did you get yours to secure in place.
 

95CobraStang

Member
Jan 21, 2004
281
1
18
Chico, CA
Feb 2, 2007
#7
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #7
While we're on the subject;

I have all new autometer stuff... do I need to hook it up to the voltage regulator? What is it used for? What will happen if I don't?

thx
 
N

nugget68

Member
Sep 26, 2005
362
3
19
Feb 2, 2007
#8
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #8
can the autometer pro comps be mounted the same as the phantoms...i think i like the black face better than the white...
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Feb 2, 2007
#9
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #9
95CobraStang said:
While we're on the subject;

I have all new autometer stuff... do I need to hook it up to the voltage regulator? What is it used for? What will happen if I don't?

thx
Click to expand...

I did hook up the voltage regulator to the gauges. This is how they will get their power to run the gauge. I believe it supplies 8V and not the 14V the car provides (thus regulating the voltages to the gauges). I don't know what would happen if you hooked up the gauges to a different power source (14V). Hate for too much power to go to them and burn out the guage (that could get expensive!). I have not applied power to the system yet as I need to change the speedo cable behind the gauge cluster as it is worn out (A different thread on asking how to change out the speedo cable soon to come).
I was able to use the stock harness at this point but won't know if it works until I power her up. I am 99% sure the stock harness for the gauges will work thus preventing ALOT of extra wiring work. The only think I have to run new is the Tach as my car did not come with it originally.
 

cougar_68

Founding Member
Jun 6, 2001
849
0
0
Garrett, IN
Feb 2, 2007
#10
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #10
I'm thinking about doing this also, what do you have to do about the mileage on the new speedo (legalities). If I ever sold the car I wouldn't want to have to get a salvage title or something. Can you have the swap notorized or possibly match the mileage some how?
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Feb 2, 2007
#11
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #11
cougar_68 said:
I'm thinking about doing this also, what do you have to do about the mileage on the new speedo (legalities). If I ever sold the car I wouldn't want to have to get a salvage title or something. Can you have the swap notorized or possibly match the mileage some how?
Click to expand...

Good question; no answer.
 
6

66HertzClone

New Member
Aug 24, 2004
428
0
0
Central New Jersey
Feb 2, 2007
#12
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #12
geostang351 said:
I did hook up the voltage regulator to the gauges. This is how they will get their power to run the gauge. I believe it supplies 8V and not the 14V the car provides (thus regulating the voltages to the gauges). I don't know what would happen if you hooked up the gauges to a different power source (14V). Hate for too much power to go to them and burn out the guage (that could get expensive!). I have not applied power to the system yet as I need to change the speedo cable behind the gauge cluster as it is worn out (A different thread on asking how to change out the speedo cable soon to come).
I was able to use the stock harness at this point but won't know if it works until I power her up. I am 99% sure the stock harness for the gauges will work thus preventing ALOT of extra wiring work. The only think I have to run new is the Tach as my car did not come with it originally.
Click to expand...


I did this install in September and did not use the CV. I would check with AM before trying this out, the instructions say nothing about needing a regulator and show a 12 volt source for the gauges. I would bet money the AM gauges have an internal regulator, adding the current unit might reduce the voltage enough to keep the gauges from working properly. I did use the fused gauge circuit from the existing harness to power the gauges, pre CV unit, in my harness it was green with black stripe.

 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
946
0
17
Danb., CT
Feb 2, 2007
#13
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #13
66HertzClone said:
I did this install in September and did not use the CV. I would check with AM before trying this out, the instructions say nothing about needing a regulator and show a 12 volt source for the gauges. I would bet money the AM gauges have an internal regulator , adding the current unit might reduce the voltage enough to keep the gauges from working properly.
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Interesting. Good point. I guess I'll have to experiment.
 

95CobraStang

Member
Jan 21, 2004
281
1
18
Chico, CA
Feb 2, 2007
#14
  • Feb 2, 2007
  • #14
thinking back: on my '95 Cobra, I installed an AutoMeter Sport Comp tach. They recommended an inline fuse (which I never did)... I ran it straight to a power source as well. Maybe the inline fuse is where the protection should be?
 
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