For those that have deleted their EGR valve

5spd GT · Sep 17, 2011

I have the heads off and decided to delete the EGR, but I want to do it right.

What all is needed to successfully delete the EGR?

Thanks guys/gals.

LarsD · Sep 17, 2011

Why do you want to delete it? From my research it doesn't cost any HP, and helps with fuel mileage.

Green 94 5.0 · Sep 18, 2011

5spd GT said:
I have the heads off and decided to delete the EGR, but I want to do it right.

What all is needed to successfully delete the EGR?

Thanks guys/gals.

To do it correctly, you must physically remove all the components and cap the hole on the egr plate. To turn off the CEL and have the EEC bypass the function it must be turned off by way of a custom tuner/chip. However as stated, it really doesnt make any performance difference to remove it so the best option is to fix the issue. I removed mine to clean up the bay a little bit.

ReefBlueHatch · Sep 18, 2011

EGR can't be used for instance with the later style Explorer intake.

What about these EGR eliminator plugs, do they work?

5spd GT · Sep 19, 2011

There is no problem with my EGR.

Ed Curtis at FTI wants me to, and I believe he knows what he is talking about.

I do have the EGR eliminator plug and delete plate.

I can only guess that I need to block the EGR ports on the heads and remove the EGR piece.

Thanks for the thoughts thus far.

LarsD · Sep 20, 2011

5spd GT said:
There is no problem with my EGR.

Ed Curtis at FTI wants me to, and I believe he knows what he is talking about.

I do have the EGR eliminator plug and delete plate.

I can only guess that I need to block the EGR ports on the heads and remove the EGR piece.

Thanks for the thoughts thus far.

In that case I would just cap the EGR plate like you have done and not worry too much about the heads and intake. I mean, without the valve opening and closing they won't be doing much of anything anyhow.

What's the setup going to be?

Mustang5L5 · Sep 20, 2011

Block the ports on the heads and remove the EGR. Install a block off plate or whatever you want to do for asthetics.

Not so sure if using the EGR elim plug is a good idea. usually with the EGR unplugged, the CEL is tripped and the computer recognizes the EGR as non-functioning and disables it. The Elim plug, if i am thinking correctly, tricks the computer into thinking it's working to turn the CEL off...however, this means the computer may adjust fuel/timing thinking it's working.

Are you getting a custom tune? If so, i'd skip the EGR elim plug and have the function removed from the tune completely.

88-378 · Sep 20, 2011

I deleted everything. ALL emissions, EGR etc..

I blocked off with a plate, capped the heads, and used the eliminator plug. I also had to use two of those resistor couplers for the MAP and BAP?

Works great. But i also have a custom tune from atlanta chassis dyno.

7991LXnSHO · Sep 21, 2011

"Are you getting a custom tune? If so, i'd skip the EGR elim plug and have the function removed from the tune completely."

Sounds like the best idea only if you are racing only. For the street, WHY defeat something that is GOOD for mileage and emissions and does NOT hurt performance? Without a custom tune, removing it may help mess up cruising mileage. Also, the next owner may not be so happy with you at all.
Not worth it.

7991LXnSHO · Sep 21, 2011

I'm fixing my emissions on a 1991 that is running rich. My 1979 got 25+ on the highway, (17- 20 in town .) with an E-7 motor, and headers, better cam and with a 4 bbl Holley and all the emission stuff hooked up. An EFI should do at least as well!

5spd GT · Sep 21, 2011

I will not be getting a tune, but an interesting thought on the plug.

AFR 185's Comp's, ported Holley Systemax, and billet cam from FTI on a 306.

This is not a daily driver.

Keep the thought's coming; good dialogue.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 22, 2011

I'd research what exactly the plug does. If it tricks the EEC into thinking it's working, i would not use it. I'd rather let the CEL glow and the EEC remove the function than take a risk in running lean at cruise.

7991LXnSHO · Sep 22, 2011

Two other EGR ideas

Idea 1. Get two new EGR valve gaskets. Sandwich a piece of sheet metal between and re install the valve.. It will keep the computer happy and keep the hot air out of the intake. This is similar to an accepted EGR valve test method. You would not need the resistors or plug thingy.

Idea 2. If you take emissions stuff off, please carefully put it all in a tote and do not hack up the wiring - just in case you sell the car or do not like what the missing stuff does to the computer.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 22, 2011

A method i once used was to take a razor blade, pull the "fat" edge off and then put a little RTV on it and sandwich it over the hole between the upper and lower intake.

Do the AFR 185's even have the provisions for EGR passages? if not, then i would just unplug the EGR and call it a day. Install one of those little plates.

5spd GT · Sep 22, 2011

Mustang5L5 said:
I'd research what exactly the plug does. If it tricks the EEC into thinking it's working, i would not use it. I'd rather let the CEL glow and the EEC remove the function than take a risk in running lean at cruise.

Here is what RJM Injection says about the plug I purchased from them:

EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminators send a 0.50volt CLOSED EGR signal to the computer. The computer then knows the EGR is permanently closed. Keeps the annoying CHECK ENGINE light OFF, and more importantly keeps the engine running smoothly. Guaranteed to work on any 1986-93 5.0L Mustang! Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 22, 2011

I found this...aparently, it does work properly

EDIT: WOn't let me post link

Originally posted by Joel5.0

You could either buy the kit from fordfuelinjection.com as BigPhil147 mentioned, or make your own. All you need is to buy (1) 390 Ω 1/2 Watt resistor and (2) 3.9K Ω 1/2 Watt resistors from Radio Shack, to make a resistors triangle and connect it to the EVP sensor as shown below....

And (4) 75 Ω 3-Watt resistor for the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids and install one at each solenoid plug as shown below.

As long as an EGR related failure code (31, 32, 33, 34, 8x) is logged in the system......its function will be deleted or bypassed by the EEC-IV....no need to reprogram the ECM for something it does on its own. The added spark timing advance due to the EGR function, will not be "applied" @part-throttle. The only code present after the resistors installation should be 33, which does not cause the CEL to turn on.

5spd GT · Sep 23, 2011

Cool. Here is what I am going to do:

- Block the EGR ports on the head (if applicable)
- Remove the EGR system/spacer and replace it with the 5/8" spacer plate
- Get a blocker plate
- Plug in the eliminator plug

I should be good after that. Anything I am missing?

Mustang5L5 · Sep 23, 2011

Check the codes...of you have anyone pf the codes mentioned above stored, then the egr function is off in the computer and you are good to gp

7991LXnSHO · Sep 26, 2011

Other Emission parts

When you decide to pull off the air pump and all related parts on back, PLEASE send them to me!! We have a scantly stocked salvage yard in the area!

Jim925 · Aug 29, 2018

Anyone here that can help me?

For those that have deleted their EGR valve

5spd GT

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LarsD

Green 94 5.0

ReefBlueHatch

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