For those that have deleted their EGR valve

@Mustang5L5

I'm in the process of deleting my EGR. Ports on heads were blocked and the EGR equip was already gone. I do care about mpg, but I'd like to clean up the engine bay and see just how much mpg my setup gets without it. My other car does 22mpg without it. If Black Jack can get 20+, I'll be thrilled.

Just installed blocker plate to TB spacer/ EGR port. Planning to connect EGR and zip tie it behind the heads, for now. I'll listen for detonation. It looks like Joel5.0 explained a resistor setup I need to build, as I doubt the eliminator plug is still available. I don't see the diagrams his post alluded to. Do you have them?

This?

Looks like it, thanks!

LMR has the laoded ones and it would be pretty easy to use one and make the plug up.

Doh! EGR side not harness side...

Found a site that claims to do the job:

On order. I like pushing the easy button when it's available. Thanks again, @AeroCoupe

I bet the black suburbans are already on there way to that shop.... They will report back to Greta after they shut down this HORRIBLE company... LOL

@FastDriver - Lets us know if that works as there may be others looking for a solution.

@limp - I am sure they already know about them. Biggest thing I saw on their site were all the disclaimers about racing use only. In the end its the user's responsibility so I get really fed up with all the going after a business for offering something that "could" be used to break the law. This goes for all things not just car parts.

7991LXnSHO said:

Two other EGR ideas

Idea 1. Get two new EGR valve gaskets. Sandwich a piece of sheet metal between and re install the valve.. It will keep the computer happy and keep the hot air out of the intake. This is similar to an accepted EGR valve test method. You would not need the resistors or plug thingy.

Idea 2. If you take emissions stuff off, please carefully put it all in a tote and do not hack up the wiring - just in case you sell the car or do not like what the missing stuff does to the computer.

Click to expand...

Hi. I have an 88 Ford Thunderchicken (5.0) that runs without the EGR and runs/hesitates/rough idle/shift issues with it plugged into the new 3) EGR components: the valve, the EGR position sensor, and the solenoid, which was not working. To my dismay, the 200.00 repairs made zero difference. My only solution was to disconnect "the saucer" and put a screw in the hose. Car runs great with it, but the temps are a little hot, not to mention I live in So. Cal. When installing the new EGR I was careful to clean the throttle body ports out with long Qtips, carb cleaner, and a toothbrush. I was wondering if those nasty plastic vacuum lines that have at least three hose repairs in them are the culprit, as the attachment elbow at the throttle body is melted in place (D-ohhh!) But your sheet metal idea is just a simply great idea. Was entertaining a soda can, but it might melt. What kind of sheet metal, how thick, do you reccomend?