For those who did a T5 swap

1967coupe · Jul 29, 2004

I'm looking to get a T5. Was just wondering what bell housing people have used (existing vs. T5). It seems like useing the T5 housing is easier, stronger, but it's 1" deeper. I read that the adapter plates aren't very strong and harder to install. I would like to avoid having the driveshaft shortened if at all possible. Your thoughts?

one2gamble · Jul 29, 2004

I went with a cable clutch/t5 housing. I did cut the driveshaft down but it was less than 100 bucks with new u-joints all around.

STSFCTN67 · Jul 29, 2004

Go with the late model bellhousing, it is much easier to match everything up and you will have the advantage of using all the high performance late model clutch kits. It is actually a good thing to get the driveshaft shortened because they were able to true and balance it. Some people choose not to shorten the driveshaft but the clearance is so close and it is not worth ruining a tranny.

347Fastback · Jul 29, 2004

I did the t-5 swap with the mustang steve setup. I used late model bellhousing etc and I bought a aluminum driveshaft so everything would live in harmony.... Do yourself a favor and make sure you balance your driveshaft.

latamud · Jul 30, 2004

I used Mustang Steve's cable setup and it is great. But, my cable is melting on the headers so next time I'm using a hydraulic setup. the tranny is longer that what the vintage cars are used to, so you have to shorten the drive shaft. The bellhousing issue will be answered by whichever type of clutching mechanism you choose to use. The vintage bell uses a z-bar pushing clutch actuator, while the later use a cable pull type. There are adapters to swap between both too. I am even in the process of a T-5 swap in my 65 Cuda. This swap is so much fun. I finally threw the belt on the paxton today and got some highway miles down with the 5 speed. Do your homework before you jump into the project. Make sure you have everything.

skywalker · Jul 30, 2004

I wen with T-5 housing and a modern driveline cable clutch.

SandSprite · Jul 30, 2004

I went with the t5 bell and the z-bar linkage. I would like to ditch it for a hydraulic setup though. Either way (old or late bell), you may have to shorten the drivshaft (I did). There may be a difference in the flywheel sizes too. I had to replace my flywheel and clutch to the 157 tooth / 10.5" late model stuff (I have a roller 302, 50oz though). My old toploader had the 164 tooth / 10" clutch, and would not fit in the late model bell. I wouldn't use an adapter, but that's just me. Seems like a waste of money (NEW flywheel and better clutch was about $320, adapter plate is like ~$200), and using the old bell leaves you with the mechanical z-bar setup as the only option (unless you get creative).

skywalker · Jul 30, 2004

SandSprite said:
I went with the t5 bell and the z-bar linkage. I would like to ditch it for a hydraulic setup though. Either way (old or late bell), you may have to shorten the drivshaft (I did). There may be a difference in the flywheel sizes too. I had to replace my flywheel and clutch to the 157 tooth / 10.5" late model stuff (I have a roller 302, 50oz though). My old toploader had the 164 tooth / 10" clutch, and would not fit in the late model bell. I wouldn't use an adapter, but that's just me. Seems like a waste of money (NEW flywheel and better clutch was about $320, adapter plate is like ~$200), and using the old bell leaves you with the mechanical z-bar setup as the only option (unless you get creative).

You will almost certainly have to shorten the driveshaft as the transmission is longer. I'm yet to hear of anyone not shortening or replacing theirs!

It really sucked when I got to the end of installing mine...started to put the driveshaft in and...

1967coupe · Jul 30, 2004

Thanks for the input everyone. Now I have a good idea of what I can expect with this swap. Did you guys just get the driveshaft shortened 1" or did you take measurements and go from there?

skywalker · Jul 30, 2004

1967coupe said:
Thanks for the input everyone. Now I have a good idea of what I can expect with this swap. Did you guys just get the driveshaft shortened 1" or did you take measurements and go from there?

The usual is 3/4" or there abouts. You should take measurements (will help you if you later decide to spend the money on a nice aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft.) 1" would probably be a safe length though.

67coupestang · Jul 31, 2004

MEASURE!!! every car is a little different! I have a tremec, but i used a mustang cable bell (79ish). I built my own cable clutch setup, which is kinda cool but definately not worth the effort i had to put in it. Doing it again I would go with Steve's

1967coupe · Aug 1, 2004

There may be a difference in the flywheel sizes too. I had to replace my flywheel and clutch to the 157 tooth / 10.5" late model stuff (I have a roller 302, 50oz though). My old toploader had the 164 tooth / 10" clutch, and would not fit in the late model bell.

Did everybody have to do this? Would I have to do this with a 289?

skywalker · Aug 1, 2004

I had to with my '68 coupe with a 289. It's simply a matter of bellhousing size. Your 289w ill have a 28oz imbalance though.

VictorII · Aug 2, 2004

I used a standard bell with an adapter plate and gusseted z-bar for strength. IIRC, I had to slightly modify the bell (took about an hour and was easy). Been over 150,000 miles and it is fine; never had a problem and I have driven somewhat spirited at times. You will have to shorten your driveshaft. Using the old style or new style bell will still place the shifter in the same spot, therefore the tailhousing will be about 1" aft of the stock. I had mine shortend 1" and had a spread spaced front u-joint in the front so the old style shaft could be used. As another poster mentioned, the job will cost about $100.00 including balancing and new U-joints. Also beware of possible exhaust interference; I had to have a new cross over installed because the T5 is taller or deeper (whatever) than the T10 I had in there. On the other hand, I have a custom made system. You will love the overdrive. I also loved the 3.35 1st gear. Mated with the 3.40 Traction Lock, it launches well and yet gets decent gas mileage. Semper Fi!

LMan · Aug 3, 2004

I used the 5.0 bell and clutch/PP. Def the way to go if you can.

skywalker · Aug 3, 2004

VictorII said:
I used a standard bell with an adapter plate and gusseted z-bar for strength. IIRC, I had to slightly modify the bell (took about an hour and was easy). Been over 150,000 miles and it is fine; never had a problem and I have driven somewhat spirited at times. You will have to shorten your driveshaft. Using the old style or new style bell will still place the shifter in the same spot, therefore the tailhousing will be about 1" aft of the stock. I had mine shortend 1" and had a spread spaced front u-joint in the front so the old style shaft could be used. As another poster mentioned, the job will cost about $100.00 including balancing and new U-joints. Also beware of possible exhaust interference; I had to have a new cross over installed because the T5 is taller or deeper (whatever) than the T10 I had in there. On the other hand, I have a custom made system. You will love the overdrive. I also loved the 3.35 1st gear. Mated with the 3.40 Traction Lock, it launches well and yet gets decent gas mileage. Semper Fi!

I paid $50 to have mine shortened.

OOH-RAH! and Semper Fi to you too sir!

1967coupe · Sep 3, 2004

OK so I've been takin my time on this project and I have a couple more questions. If the T5 has the same bolt pattern as the original, why do I need to use a T5 block plate? I also read that if I use the T5 block plate I will need to get a starter from an auto, is this true? Otherwise this swap is going pretty smooth. Oh yeah...my original slip yoke slides right onto the T5. Does this mean I can return the one I bought and save myself 80 bucks?

88 Fox GT · Sep 3, 2004

I am using stock T-5 bellhousing and clutch setup with a Ron Morris Performance clutch cable setup. The whole assembly for the clutch cable is rather expensive at $250, but will be worth it.

6stang8 · Sep 4, 2004

Something else that you might have to deal with is the bellcrank kickdown lever; but it might only apply if you are using a Lakewood T5 bellhousing like I used, I'm not sure.

Anyway on my '68, I didn't have a manual bellcrank, and I didn't want to wait/look for one, so I hacksawed the kickdown lever off of my automatic bellcrank. I think in '69 they went to a seperate kickdown lever from the bellcrank.

Well, to hacksaw the automatic kickdown lever from the bellcrank, I had to remove it from my car. In order to remove it from the car, the gas pedal has to be removed.

Of course I stripped the top of the screw that holds the gas pedal to the bellcrank as it was rusted, so I hacksawed the top of the gas pedal off too! I then used a pair of vise grips to clamp onto the screw to loosen it. I might could have gotten the screw loose by just using the vise grips in the first place; but I didn't think of it. Hindsight is 20/20, oh well....

Also, I'd measure the inside and outside dimensions of your slip yoke. On my C4 slip yoke, the inside was deeper than the outside by 1/2" maybe? I can't remember what it was exactly. I'm thinking 7 3/16" inside and 6 11/16" or 6 13/16" outside? Anyone know for sure?

All I know is that it is deeper. So take that into consideration when you are checking to see if you'll need your driveshaft shortened.

MrBobMarley · Sep 5, 2004

In your first post, you said you'd like to avoid having the d/s shortened. I was the same way, because I heard from many that I could reuse my old d/s and it would fit. As it turned out the easiest and most frustrating part of the entire swap was having a d/s made up for me. When I took the d/s to the shop, the guy couldn't find any u joint to fit the yoke, which I thought was absurd because this is the most common classic car on earth. Well, some clown years ago must have used some kind of yoke from a tractor/firetruck or something because as far as the guy knew, mustangs used 1" cups all around, The yoke that came off my stang required 1 1/8" cups and 1" cups?!?!? So he offered to throw it away and make me an entirely new d/s and that's how I got mine, for 180 bucks. Not too bad.

Btw, its a 65 coupe, 289, 91 gt t5, t5 bellhousing, mustang steve kit, swapped out the auto for t5.

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