For whoever asked - Scattershield Hyd. Line Bulkhead

gp001 · Oct 25, 2004

I must have deleted the PM from the person who asked for pics of this, and unfortunately I don't remember the name, sorry.

Here are the pics of the hydraulic line bulkhead I made for my scattershield. As I described in another post, this will enable replacement of the exterior hydraulic line(s) in case of a breakage. The 2 internal lines (between the bulkhead and the hydraulic bearing) will unlikely need replaceing as they are protected inside the scattershield and held in a fixed position by the bulkhead. The 90* bulkhead connectors allow me to use straight ends on the side coming from the bearing (making it easier to install/remove) and 45* ends on the lines up to the master cylinder and bleeder. The 90* forward and 45* out gives enough throw to shoot through the biggest opening of the headers. I am making another bracket that will bolt to one of the existing scattershield bolts (empty holes in pics). That bracket will hold the hydraulic lines away from the headers as they head to the master cylinder and bleeder. I will post pics of those when it is completed (later this week)
Hope this helps you in your build

1320stang · Oct 25, 2004

In order not to void the SFI certification, could you have not cut a piece of similar thickness steel that fits inside the clutch fork opening (like you were going to weld it in to fill it up), then welded a contour fitting lip around its edge that would be bigger than the hole. This would be on the inside of the hole, this would get some holes drilled in it and nuts welded on the inside, or use rivnuts. Then cut a similar sized contour fitting piece that fits on the outside, but overlaps the holes in the other plate, this also gets holes in the same positions then when you bolt them together, they sandwich together at the opening and are solid enough not to move around. Does all that make sense? Other than voiding the SFI cert., it looks great!!!

gp001 · Oct 25, 2004

Larry, how does my way void the SFI cert? I admit I didn't look into the regulation, but I was told that adding the 2 threaded holes wouldn't void the cert.

Also, keep in mind the lines are attached to the trans. You have to put the trans in with the lines facing front (parallel to the input shaft) and swivel them to the side (perpendicular to the input shaft) as the trans is going in. You need to be able to access the clutch fork hole in this process. Then the bulkhead is attached.

pabear89 · Oct 25, 2004

There Goes the Monkeys with the Football again!

Gp, Larry's way only means that the locator pins would have to be properly placed Prior to assy.
Then the trans and scattersheild be attached to the block as a unit.

On your set up tho clean and funtional.
Me Likes,

Ps. I would have to see the rules in writing,
Your adding to its strenth and closing a potental Hazard hole.

1320stang · Oct 25, 2004

You can have the bell recertified. Your supposed to after every 2 years anyway. But if you haven't had a failure, I don't understand why it needs to be recert'd. The SFI rule applys to cars running faster than 11.99. Then again, most techs don't care to even look, just be aware, if you go somewhere where they're VERY picky, you may get turned away. It was more of an FYI thing than anything else. Heck, my bell has that side notched for header clearance.

latamud · Oct 26, 2004

1320stang said:
In order not to void the SFI certification, could you have not cut a piece of similar thickness steel that fits inside the clutch fork opening (like you were going to weld it in to fill it up), then welded a contour fitting lip around its edge that would be bigger than the hole. This would be on the inside of the hole, this would get some holes drilled in it and nuts welded on the inside, or use rivnuts. Then cut a similar sized contour fitting piece that fits on the outside, but overlaps the holes in the other plate, this also gets holes in the same positions then when you bolt them together, they sandwich together at the opening and are solid enough not to move around. Does all that make sense? Other than voiding the SFI cert., it looks great!!!

And then, over time, from driving it. you forget about it and it rattles loose and one of the retaining plates you have sandwiching the bellhousing falls into the bellhousing catching flywheel teeth tearing up the starter, clutch disc, pressure plate and the hydraulic lines to the throw out bearing. Loctite might work to remedy it. But, it would still retain the SFI certification so I guess it wouldn't matter if that all happened right? Safety first.

Route666 · Oct 26, 2004

I like how you do quality mods gp, keep up the good work.

1320stang · Oct 26, 2004

latamud said:
And then, over time, from driving it. you forget about it and it rattles loose and one of the retaining plates you have sandwiching the bellhousing falls into the bellhousing catching flywheel teeth tearing up the starter, clutch disc, pressure plate and the hydraulic lines to the throw out bearing. Loctite might work to remedy it. But, it would still retain the SFI certification so I guess it wouldn't matter if that all happened right? Safety first.

You've had one of your wheels fall off, haven't you.

gp001 · Oct 26, 2004

pabear89 said:
There Goes the Monkeys with the Football again!

Gp, Larry's way only means that the locator pins would have to be properly placed Prior to assy.
Then the trans and scattersheild be attached to the block as a unit.

On your set up tho clean and funtional.
Me Likes,

Ps. I would have to see the rules in writing,
Your adding to its strenth and closing a potental Hazard hole.

I have never even thought of installing the trans/scatter as a unit. That would have life a whole lot easier. Where were you guys before I put it in

gp001 · Oct 26, 2004

1320stang said:
It was more of an FYI thing than anything else. Heck, my bell has that side notched for header clearance.

I see. I thought since you were involved with certain events you may have some specific knowledge/experience with that rule. I agree that most won't look, or probably even care. Thanks for the heads up though

gp001 · Oct 26, 2004

Route666 said:
I like how you do quality mods gp, keep up the good work.

Thank You. Although this mod was a quick hack job of my original plan (that didn't work)

1320stang · Oct 26, 2004

Why didn't the original not work?

gp001 · Oct 26, 2004

1320stang said:
Why didn't the original not work?

The position of the clutch fork hole made it difficult to get a line combo to go from the top port of the bearing down to the plate. If looking at the scattershield/bearing from the front (engine) the 2 hydraulic ports are at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the bearing and the fork hole is at about 4-5 o'clock on the scattershield. I tried several different combos of bulkhead connectors (straight, 45, 90) and line ends (straight, 45, 90, 120) but the short length of the line made the line too rigid to bend down from the top of the bearing and smoothly connect to the bulkhead.

1320stang · Oct 26, 2004

But if you had installed it as a unit, it would have probably worked, right?

gp001 · Oct 26, 2004

1320stang said:
But if you had installed it as a unit, it would have probably worked, right?

Probably, but remember, we're monkeys and sometimes we look lke we're....well, you know

For whoever asked - Scattershield Hyd. Line Bulkhead

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