Ford Alarm System

Assuming aftermarket alarm:

If the starter kill was wired passively, like most are, as long as you leave the relay intact, the car should still start. Otherwise remove the relay and reconnect the cut starter interlock wires (should be terminals 30 and 87A on the relay).

For the locks, again, you can leave the relays and let power travel through the common and N.C. terminals. Otherwise you can reattach the wires as they were stock. There should have been two OEM wires that were cut. Most installers grab the lock wires at the top of the driver kick panel.

If you leave the relays intact, you are ready for another alarm down the road.

Of course, some installers do stuff differently, but what is mentioned above is pretty conventional.

Good luck.

Ah so. I dont know how the factory stuff is wired up (though some peeps in here do). FWIW, bypassing the starter kill should be very simple if you want to do it. All you need is two fingers.

Good luck.

i've taken out many alarms in my day as they are major pains in the ass and any time i did it i just reconnected any factory wires that may have been spliced into by alarm wiring.

If you put a test light on the little slide-on (S) terminal wire on the top of the starter solenoid and try to crank the motor over, you probably wont see 12 volts at that little wire's connection.

BEING SURE YOU HAVE THE CAR IN NEUTRAL, EMERGENCY BRAKE APPLIED, AND OTHER SAFETY PRECAUTIONS TAKEN, you can turn the ignition key to the 'on' position. Then remove the slide-on terminal on the solenoid and run a jump from the slide-on post to the battery lug on the solenoid (the battery lug has several cables attaching to it, and is often the firewall-side most terminal on the solenoid).
WHen you touch that little thin wire to the battery terminal, the car should turn over and start.

I am guessing that right now when you try to start the car, absolutely nothing happens. This indicates a starter kill (which the above procedure should circumvent). There might be other measures taken to keep the car from starting, but getting it to crank is the first step.

Good luck.

Does the car crank right now?

Mr. Potato Head said:

No. The fuel pump primes and the dash lights come on, etc but the car doesn't make any starting sounds. It's almost definitely a starter kill.

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If you do what I outlined in post 10, it will bypass the starter kill.

When that little top-post wire on the solenoid sees 12 volts, the starter solenoid energizes. When you remove that slide-on wire and touch it to the battery post on the solenoid, you are providing the 12 volts that otherwise are not making it to the solenoid via its natural path (because of the alarm).

Let me know what you think. Good luck.

Mr. Potato Head said:

What I think is that it sounds great! However, I tried it between post 10 and 11 and it didn't make any change. I am going to get some sleep now and I will eagerly anticipate your fresh ideas in the morning. Either that or call a tow truck!

Click to expand...

Here is Jrichker's master post on troubleshooting and circumventing the starter interlock circuit.

Number 3 on his nice list is another quick way to get the car to crank (this method will circumvent the solenoid as well). The car should crank with this method no matter what, unless the battery, battery cables, starter, starter cable, motor grounds, etc are at fault.

I know my posts are not very concise or easy to read, so perhaps Jrichker's post makes (a lot) more sense.

Good luck.

If you cant start it using a jump from the thin stud to the battery lug, the solenoid is not energizing properly.

Glad you got it though.

Mr. Potato Head

If you have a factory installed or dealer installed Ford alarm system it carries a LIFETIME warrantee. You will only need to pay for labor at your local ford dealer if you want to keep it...