1000$ w/ Pistons,rings,rods,crank and balancerIt would all.come down to the cost for me...what's the number?
Joe
350rwhp should be a fun street car, question really is what is your ultimate goal for the car? 10 second 1/4 mile slips? A certain rwhp number? Boost?With all my existing parts I think it could make 350+ rwhp
Not a fan of boring anything over .030 on a stock block but if it is a quality kit then that's a decent price
I was slightly concerned about the overbore but I have seen a few at .040 without a problem.? These are good parts(easily 1/2 priced over new). My major concern is purchasing without being able to inspect the parts in person(this an online/re sell deal). Pictures are good etc but how much can I trust it(PayPal etc but nervous). It would be perfect for a high winding/boosted build. I want to do it but haven't committed yet. I'm torn.Not a fan of boring anything over .030 on a stock block but if it is a quality kit then that's a decent price
These are good parts(easily 1/2 priced over new). My major concern is purchasing without being able to inspect the parts in person(this an online/re sell deal). Pictures are good etc but how much can I trust it(PayPal etc but nervous). It would be perfect for a high winding/boosted build. I want to do it but haven't committed yet. I'm torn.
No they're not used. Sorry if that's what I implied. It's an abandoned project. Supposedly had the crank machined/lightened etc. pistons are nib,rings,pins,etc are all boxed. I'm just saying who knows until you actually have the parts in hand. I know the Pistons,rings,and pins are close to 1000$ by themselves. The only reason I'm thinking about it is for the future. If I can find a good block right now I'd just bite the bullet and do it all right now. I have everything else for a nice build(except power added). Also they are 4340 forged eagle h beams and crank.Wait....so these parts are used?
For $1000, I'd pass. Too much for a used rotating assembly IMO. FWIW, I paid that much for my brand, new CHP 331 stroker assembly, straight out of the box and fully warrantied. You could be running around right now with a 331/347 for that price.
Now, these very well may be a slightly more stout pieces than the ones that came with my kit, but it really doesn't matter for your needs. As long as the pistons are forged, any kit will handle more power than the block will, so whether the rotating assembly is good for 600hp, or 1,600hp is really irrelevant in this case.
I was going to(and probably still will). I want a solid 11 sec car n/a without a power adder and faster with one. I've had plenty of low 12's already. All my car "friends" are 10 seconds or faster with their "race cars". Some have old muscle car cruisers. I want to be able to go to a cruise night AND be able to run a descent time. I keep thinking about "no cage"-"don't care how fast"-"nice cruiser" etc etc but what I really want is(for lack of a comparison) what @90lxcoupe has done. Except on a smaller scale(his is a mt Rushmore build IMO). Maybe like @HotFox has done. I love race cars. I just don't want a "drag only" one. If this makes sense.Still not sure what the goal is for the car. Are you still planning on spraying?
I'm all for Strokers/forced induction etc also. I do think it would be fun to do a small high winding motor though. That's why I've been seriously considering it.personal opinion here... for what you've got going on I would not put money into a stock block. If I were going 308ci with 205cc heads I'd save up and do the 308 to a block that will live well with rpm... solid roller it and make well over 400 at the wheels.
I like that you are thinking outside the box. I like to see folks doing different things. A small cube high winding N/A car is rare around these parts. Looking at turbo after turbo after stroker after stroker... yawn.
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