found a 1966 mustang
- Thread starter WRXracer
- Start date
streetstang03
unModerator
ya, if it isnt a rust bucket! LOL, u know the rust prone spots for the 66 Mustangs?? if not i can fill ya in! 
Be aware that "hobby cars" cost big dollars. Its easy to buy the basic car but expensive to make it like new. I know...been there/done that! My '65 fastback cost me $25K over the time I owned it. Luckily I got most of the money back when I sold it. Perhaps I would own another IF the following conditions applied:
- exceptional unrestored condition (no rust or corrosion, all pieces intact and in excellent condition.
- low investment cost
- V8 (I6's are rarely worth the cost of restoring. Note that you can put twice the money into a V8 and still expect to be able to sell it for a profit. Not so with an I6)
You may have found one like this but then again you can get one that looks good on the surface but has cowl problems, internal panel rust, needs new upholstery, bright moldings, glass, in addition to mechanical work. All of these cost money even if the labor cost to replace is your own. Whatever you think it will cost to restore it...triple your estimate. Whatever time you think it will take to restore it...triple your estimate! Selling it for $2,000 now may be the best profit you'll get.
- exceptional unrestored condition (no rust or corrosion, all pieces intact and in excellent condition.
- low investment cost
- V8 (I6's are rarely worth the cost of restoring. Note that you can put twice the money into a V8 and still expect to be able to sell it for a profit. Not so with an I6)
You may have found one like this but then again you can get one that looks good on the surface but has cowl problems, internal panel rust, needs new upholstery, bright moldings, glass, in addition to mechanical work. All of these cost money even if the labor cost to replace is your own. Whatever you think it will cost to restore it...triple your estimate. Whatever time you think it will take to restore it...triple your estimate! Selling it for $2,000 now may be the best profit you'll get.
ok
its a C code V8.. but has a edlbroke 4 barrle.. its in good running shape.. just needs a loving owner.. I know the engine has been rebuilt and the inside was restord.. it does need new headers.. I could drive it home just fine in the shape it is in..
its a C code V8.. but has a edlbroke 4 barrle.. its in good running shape.. just needs a loving owner.. I know the engine has been rebuilt and the inside was restord.. it does need new headers.. I could drive it home just fine in the shape it is in..
WRXracer said:
NADA says its worth $4975 in "1" condition. From what you describe its a "3" at best. A "3" is worth half of $4975. Thus the value is about $2,500 or there about. At $1,800 its a good deal provided it does not have any floorboard, cowl, or fender rot. One can't easily see cowl or floorboard rot.
Look under dash around left air vent. If the area around the airvent is chalky or white, you KNOW it has extensive cowl corrosion. Floor corrosion can be disguised by undercoating. Be sure to look at floors carefully on a rack where you can inspect it...simply glancing up under the floors is not enough. Be sure to look inside the trunk and fender wells for any evidence of corrosion. If its got some but appears minor, its likely not; moreso its likely to be heavily corroded.
Car should be solid all around with good fitting doors, trunk and hood. Headlight buckets should fit smoothly along the top of the fenders and not be misfit (mismatched). Body lines should be smooth and straight. Look along fender "C" scoop. High spots on the "C" scoop should match when going from front fender to door to curve of the "C". Windows should roll up and seal (no big air leaks) anywhere. Vent window frames should be free of pitting. When you open/close doors the doors should fit squarely and close with a solid feel. If they wander around or droop look out. If the bottom of the door scrapes the door scuff plate watch out.
Jeff
streetstang03
unModerator
Rust spots....cowl area, front fender by the running ponies on each side of the car, point where roof line meets the rest of the cars body, around the back glass (rear window lip), floor pans majory (peel back carpet or poke through it with a pen to see how sturdy the floor pans are), the lower door edges, rear fenders, battery area, all the tops of the fender aprons, and the cowl vents.
streetstang03
unModerator
WRXracer said:
why is he selling it so cheap then if it has the motor rebulit and the interior restored? does it just need some paint and misc. parts or what?
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