FOX ALTERNATOR UPGRADE. WHICH ONE? HELP PLEASE. NEED ONE ASAP.

[biglg]

I have an 89 Mustang Gt Convertible. The alternator is bad. I would like to put in an upgraded larger alternator. I plan to later have a stereo, electric fan, etc.

I know some people are using 94-95 mustang alternators. Can someone please tell me if I purchase one what exactly I will need and instructions on how to do the install?

Are there other alternators from other cars that will also work? I have seen on eBay where there is a seller than sells a direct bolt on no modification and they label it as small housing/casing.

Any recommendations on the best replacement alternator with the smallest amount of modification would be great. Let me know the vehicle make and years. If I have to do modifications please let me know all and any instructions and parts needed. Thanks as always.

 

[Daggar]

Instructions are here:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/03/paperformance/index2.shtml

DO NOT:
reconnect the two black/Orange wires. Just tie the connector up and out of the way. Those wires are not even needed so long as you install the 4G (or larger) upgrade wire.

DO:
Ensure that you install a fuse inline with the new wire. 200 amp will be just fine.

If you're not able to make up an upgrade wire of your own, you can purchase one from www.pa-performance.com.

Look at the pics of the 3G in the article. So long as the ears are clocked in the same manner and it's got a serpantine belt pulley, you can use it.

 

[Roland69]

Do a search on 3G alternator there are a sh-it load of posts about this install

 

[srothfuss]

There are a lot of threads here on Stangnet that can help you in your decision. I did my own write up on my install here: Click Me Inside that writeup is all of JRICHKER's information in it as well.

Most people do not recommend using the stock alternator with a larger capacity because the stock charge cables are so small.

 

[SamSnyder]

Just did a 3G upgrade on my '90 yesterday, and it seems to be working A-OK. Used a $20 junkyard 3G off a '90's 3.0 Taurus with the 7" mounting hole spacing (earlier Tauruses had 8"). The instructions on the link above are perfect. I used a PA performance 4ga wire, although it's nothing you couldn't make yourself for half the cost -- a six foot wire with eyelets on either end, and a big-a fuse somewhere in the line. Connecting was simple really: the 4ga wire goes from the 3G power post to the battery side of the starter solenoid; the half-round plug from the old alt plugs right into the 3G, and you just have to snip one wire from the old alt's rectangular plug, connect it to the right plug for the 3G, and plug it in. Stock, I was dipping down to 10 volts with the lights, wipers and heater on, now it sits at 14+ volts with everything on.

 

[jrichker]

Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.39
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=082-064

Pre-fab 4 gauge cables with lugs already on the ends are available in most auto parts stores. Look for the starter switch to starter cables.

 

[biglg]

I am going to work on my 3G alternator upgrade tonight. Or at least get some of the supplies. I am going to put in a wafer/ANL style fuse and holder on the 4 gauge power wire. Is a 150 Amp fuse enough? I noticed some say to use a 125; well no one has a 125 locally. So I can get a 150, or a 200. I see some say to use a 200. What does everyone recommend?

Also, if I already have 4 gauge ground from battery to frame, and 4 gauge ground to engine block I don’t need to change anything do I? I only need 4 gauge wires for the power, correct? I do nothing with a ground anywhere on the car or alt? Please let me know ASAP as I plan to get these parts in a few hours. Thanks, Landon.

 

[biglg]

Going to complete a 3G alternator upgrade. I need some help.

I guess to keep it simple for my rookie a**. If I use 4 gauge from the alternator stud, directly to the battery do I need to do anything to the factory ground wires in the car? Or just leave them?

Secondly, Can someone in simple terms tell me exactly what I need to do to wire this alt up? Here is what I think is correct.

Take 4 gauge directly from the battery to the stud on the alt, going to put in a 150A inline fuse.

The one factory alt plug, keep all wires intact and plug into the alternator.

Cut the connector off the other plug. Now, I believe the two black and orange need ring terminals, connect these two to the stud on the 3G alt as well. Correct? The remaining wire from this connector I connect to the little connector on the 3G alt? Stator?(SPELLING?)

Now I have read do not connect the black/white wires. I dont know where those are at or what they are talking about. I think I am on the right track.

So, do I do anything to the ground? What wires do I not use out of the factory alt connectors? Do I remove any wiring? Please a little more help on this. Thanks, Landon.

 

[HISSIN50]

Cut the connector off the other plug. Now, I believe the two black and orange need ring terminals, connect these two to the stud on the 3G alt as well. Correct?

No, there's no need to even cut that connector. You can tap into the stator wire with a quick tap or cut a piece of insulation off to solder a Y into it (the leg of the Y goes to the new stator plug on the 3G).

The remaining wire from this connector I connect to the little connector on the 3G alt? Stator?(SPELLING?)

yep. The stator plug on the 3G.

So, do I do anything to the ground? What wires do I not use out of the factory alt connectors? Do I remove any wiring? Please a little more help on this.

The small connector is plug-and-play in the new alt, like you said. The bigger connector gets the stator wire tapped and that's it. Simply stated, the only wires you dont use at the alternator side are the two stock charge wires (or/blk). But you leave the stock charge cable connected at the starter solenoid.

Good luck.

 

[SamSnyder]

The new 4 gauge wire goes from the solenoid to the power post on the 3G. The one half round plug goes right into the 3G, with no changes. On the square plug, you cut the black/orange wires and cap them -- they don't connect to anything on the 3G, because they are being bypassed by your new 4 gauge wire. Many instructions say to put eyelets on them and add them to the 3G power post with the new 4 gauge to double up the wiring, but the thinking on here is that they are too small for the 3G's power, and if the fuse in your new 4 gauge wire blows, you run the risk of a total meltdown when all the power is diverted to the red/oranges. So just ignore them, except to make sure they can't ground out, since they will still be hot. That leaves only the black/white wire from the square plug. That needs to have a little connector soldered or otherwise put on to plug it into the remaining connection on the 3G -- it sits all by itself in the single connector on the 3G.

 

[biglg]

HISSIN50 & SAMSNYDER,

Thanks for the replies guys. I just purchased my 5.0 2 months ago. I have very little mechanical experience. I am trying to learn as each day passes. I appreciate your help. I do have a few more questions.

First,

I have the connector plugs from the 3G, the stator and the other. I only need the stator connector of the two? I use my stock connector for the other plug?

Secondly,
I do not do anything with the orange/black factory alt wires? I was confused on this because a lot of the instructions show putting ring terminals on them and connecting them to the alt stud as well. I understand why you said I don’t need too. Just take the third little wire on the plug, and connect it to the stator some how, splicing, cutting, or y’ing in?

Thirdly,
I have been told to take the new 4 gauge power to the battery, and other say to run it from the alt stud to the starter solenoid. Which is better? Will either work? Seems the battery may be easier to use, and the solenoid stud bolt doesn’t have a lot of room left on it?

I do not remove any wires, leave everything that is in the car, leave it all in tact?

Sorry for all the questions, I just don’t want to make a mistake on this project. I appreciate everything.

Here is what I plan to do.

1. Use the factory 65 amp plug that is fits the 3G alt.
2. Cut the stator wire off the other factory 65 amp alt plug, run it to the new stator plug on the 3G alt.
3. Run 4 gauge power from either the battery or starter solenoid to the alt stud. I will be putting a 150A ANL style fuse and holder around a foot away from which ever power source I use. Is a foot close enough?

I guess that is it. Sounds a lot simpler than all of the darn instructions I have read. Splice one wire to the stator, plug in the plug that fits, run a new 4 gauge power. That just seems too easy. I guess I have it. Please help me out on my 3 questions and maybe I can leave you a lone for a while. Thanks in advance.

 

[8950HO]

You DO NOT have to cut any wires on the factory spade connector,period.

For the stator wire hookup,I used a 18-22ga spade connector and pushed it into the stator terminal on the factory spade connector.You could also use a quick splice connector.Then just tape up the other two terminals.

My old 2g is still good,and if my 3g ever craps out,I can easily reinstall the 2g temporarily until I purchase another 3g.Reverse compatibility.

 

[jrichker]

Here is what I plan to do.

1. Use the factory 65 amp plug that is fits the 3G alt.
2. Cut the stator wire off the other factory 65 amp alt plug, run it to the new stator plug on the 3G alt.
3. Run 4 gauge power from either the battery or starter solenoid to the alt stud. I will be putting a 150A ANL style fuse and holder around a foot away from which ever power source I use. Is a foot close enough?

I guess that is it. Sounds a lot simpler than all of the darn instructions I have read. Splice one wire to the stator, plug in the plug that fits, run a new 4 gauge power. That just seems too easy. I guess I have it. Please help me out on my 3 questions and maybe I can leave you a lone for a while. Thanks in advance.

That will work fine. And it is very simple & easy to do.

 

[srothfuss]

Looks good to me too... Very straight forward to do once you get started on the swap.

 

[biglg]

Damn,

All the HOW TO's make this seem so much more complicated.

What did you guys do with the factory alt power wires, the 2 10 gauge? Leave them on the plug, did you wrap the plug up with something? Did you cut the plug and cover them with somethign? Where did you cut them off, where did you hide the remaining ends?

Lastly, do I need to do anythign to any of the factory grounds under they engine? Are they already 4 gauge? Do I leave them as is or have to change something to 4 gauge? Thanks again, I should be able to do this pretty quick tonight.

 

[biglg]

One more question. I have read to run the 4 gauge power from the alt stud directly to the battery, and i have read to run from the alt stud to the starter solenoid.

What should I do? Is one way better than the other? WHY? Thanks again.

 

[srothfuss]

Damn,

All the HOW TO's make this seem so much more complicated.

What did you guys do with the factory alt power wires, the 2 10 gauge? Leave them on the plug, did you wrap the plug up with something? Did you cut the plug and cover them with somethign? Where did you cut them off, where did you hide the remaining ends?

Two options:

1) Leave the plug intact and wrap with lots of electrical tape. Zip tie out of the way off the existing wire loom

2) Clip the connecter leaving enough wire to strip and reattach later down the road (if you need to reinstall the 2G alt for any reason) Then use heat shrink to seal off the loose wires and tuck them back into the original wire loom.

Lastly, do I need to do anythign to any of the factory grounds under they engine? Are they already 4 gauge? Do I leave them as is or have to change something to 4 gauge? Thanks again, I should be able to do this pretty quick tonight.

A secondary 4 guage ground from the chasis ground to the engine block is recommended.

 

[biglg]

I want to make sure I dont have an issue. But does the stator wire come from the factory plug out directly into the new 3g alt stator location? It just loops the 2 connectors? This is how mine is, is this correct?

 

[biglg]

Do I do anything with my factory grounds? If yes, WHAT?

Secondly, I think I have this basically done, I am just waiting on my ANL style fuse holder to get here.

I do have one remaining questions. Does the single white wire I cut off the non used connector, does it actually just loop from the stator plug into the regulator plug? I pulled back some tape and it seems it actually comes out of the regulator plug. Is this correct? I want to make sure before I fire my car up. No one every mentioned it looped out of the regulator plug and then connect it to the 3G alt stator lone plug? Thanks and let me know asap.

 

[srothfuss]

Do I do anything with my factory grounds? If yes, WHAT?

You can leave all of the factory grounds in place... Just and an additional one. The Alternator grounds to the engine block. The block then grounds to the chasis and that is why it's recommended to add the extra grounding capacity.

I do have one remaining questions. Does the single white wire I cut off the non used connector, does it actually just loop from the stator plug into the regulator plug?

Yes it just loops to the other plug. In my thread I took a picture of the stator wire. Splice into it and attach to the single plug on the 3G