Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

RaggedGT · Aug 31, 2016

Here is the ugly red lettering Dave

Please forgive the dirt square around them-I had a ford sticker over it lol.

I'm pretty sure the red paint went on first-then the black-has a pretty good edge around the letters

The stripe has it too lol

Thanks for looking at these and giving me your opinion

Davedacarpainter · Aug 31, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Here is the ugly red lettering Dave

Please forgive the dirt square around them-I had a ford sticker over it lol.

I'm pretty sure the red paint went on first-then the black-has a pretty good edge around the letters

The stripe has it too lol

Thanks for looking at these and giving me your opinion

Ruh Roh Shaggy! Yeah, your car is red with a lot of black paint thrown on it.

Is the ID sticker still in the driver's side jamb? If it's black, it'll read UA, if it's red, it'll be something like E3, or maybe E4.

Good pictures btw.

RaggedGT · Aug 31, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
Ruh Roh Shaggy! Yeah, your car is red with a lot of black paint thrown on it.

Is the ID sticker still in the driver's side jamb? If it's black, it'll read UA, if it's red, it'll be something like E3, or maybe E4.

Good pictures btw.

I'll check the door plate, not to shabby for iPhone pics right? Lol

Edit: so whaddya think Dave,a lot of sanding/priming/painting and blending in my future ? lol

02 281 GT · Aug 31, 2016

RaggedGT said:
I'll check the door plate, not to shabby for iPhone pics right? Lol

Only took Apple seven versions to finally get the camera right!

RaggedGT · Aug 31, 2016

02 281 GT said:
Only took Apple seven versions to finally get the camera right!

Very true lol. I'd like to upgrade to a 6S though lol

02 281 GT · Aug 31, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Very true lol. I'd like to upgrade to a 6S though lol

My only gripe with my 6 is that I should have bought the 64GB so I could store all my music on it. That, and it seems to be frying charge cords.

RaggedGT · Aug 31, 2016

02 281 GT said:
My only gripe with my 6 is that I should have bought the 64GB so I could store all my music on it. That, and it seems to be frying charge cords.

Had same cord problem with my 5s. After 3-4 Apple cords I bought a $7 Amazon cord, no issues for a year now lol

02 281 GT · Aug 31, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Had same cord problem with my 5s. After 3-4 Apple cords I bought a $7 Amazon cord, no issues for a year now lol

I'm on my second factory Apple cord. It starts to leave what looks like a burned or blacked area in the middle of both sides of the connector. After a while, it'll no longer charge. Every now and then I'll get the error message saying "this cord may not be supported". Can't hurt to try a cheapo cord!

Davedacarpainter · Sep 1, 2016

RaggedGT said:
I'll check the door plate, not to shabby for iPhone pics right? Lol

Edit: so whaddya think Dave,a lot of sanding/priming/painting and blending in my future ? lol

Alright Chris, if the car will stay black (and I assume it will), then you'll need to feather out the edges first.

I would personally use 320 to do this. You'll want to keep your da flat while doing it. I'll need to post a picture of a properly feathered edge. I have one from when I was stripping my spoiler on doby. Look how the paint smoothly transitions from one layer of paint to the next.
You could use 180 even for this to get the edges to feather better, then sand around the area to about six inches away from the feathering. This area just provides the mechanical bonding area for the primer overspray.

Then mask around that area, and your car being black, I would cover the whole thing with a drop cloth or something like the plastic I use at work. Depending on the primer you use, it'll travel as overspray and stick on other areas of your car. Our primer (Sherwin Williams) stays open long enough to still stick on the other end of the car, others aren't so bad though, and it may not be a problem for you. But unless you feel like cleaning off overspray with a clay bar, just cover the whole thing.

The immediate masking area around where you sanded should be at the end of your sanded area. Do NOT spray the primer all of the way to the paper, you'll leave a hardline that will cause the underlying paint to swell and it will leave a line that you think you'll have blocked out later until you notice a week after you have painted the panel that there is a residual line there from the paint shrinking back as it dries.

So, spray the first coat just over the immediate feathered edge, the next just slightly farther, then one more slightly farther. Let it harden up for ten or fifteen minutes and remove your masking.

I would let this primer sit untouched for about a week if I were you. It will shrink back (harden and dry) during this period. If you don't allow this time, you'll probably see residual shrinking back scratches appear after you paint the car black again.

Once you've done this, let me know, we'll cover the prep and painting process then.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 1, 2016

Pick the lint out of the charging point. Your burning little fragments of whatever gets jammed between the contacts

Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

Davedacarpainter · Sep 1, 2016

Mustang5L5 said:
Pick the lint out of the charging point. Your burning little fragments of whatever gets jammed between the contacts

Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

Uhmmmm, help me out here Mike, what are you referencing?

Ahhhhh, the Apple power cord.

02 281 GT · Sep 1, 2016

Mustang5L5 said:
Pick the lint out of the charging point. Your burning little fragments of whatever gets jammed between the contacts

Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

I'll take a look, but it's doing this since new. Only had the phone since March.

RaggedGT · Sep 1, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
Alright Chris, if the car will stay black (and I assume it will), then you'll need to feather out the edges first.

I would personally use 320 to do this. You'll want to keep your da flat while doing it. I'll need to post a picture of a properly feathered edge. I have one from when I was stripping my spoiler on doby. Look how the paint smoothly transitions from one layer of paint to the next.
You could use 180 even for this to get the edges to feather better, then sand around the area to about six inches away from the feathering. This area just provides the mechanical bonding area for the primer overspray.

Then mask around that area, and your car being black, I would cover the whole thing with a drop cloth or something like the plastic I use at work. Depending on the primer you use, it'll travel as overspray and stick on other areas of your car. Our primer (Sherwin Williams) stays open long enough to still stick on the other end of the car, others aren't so bad though, and it may not be a problem for you. But unless you feel like cleaning off overspray with a clay bar, just cover the whole thing.

The immediate masking area around where you sanded should be at the end of your sanded area. Do NOT spray the primer all of the way to the paper, you'll leave a hardline that will cause the underlying paint to swell and it will leave a line that you think you'll have blocked out later until you notice a week after you have painted the panel that there is a residual line there from the paint shrinking back as it dries.

So, spray the first coat just over the immediate feathered edge, the next just slightly farther, then one more slightly farther. Let it harden up for ten or fifteen minutes and remove your masking.

I would let this primer sit untouched for about a week if I were you. It will shrink back (harden and dry) during this period. If you don't allow this time, you'll probably see residual shrinking back scratches appear after you paint the car black again.

Once you've done this, let me know, we'll cover the prep and painting process then.

I have a few other little spots that could use a little more than a touch up.. So the goofy letter gives me an excuse to do them lol. Seriously Dave - thank you for taking the time to look at my pics and answer my questions

Davedacarpainter said:
Uhmmmm, help me out here Mike, what are you referencing?

Ahhhhh, the Apple power cord.

Once again- I am sorry for the de rail

02 281 GT · Sep 1, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Once again- I am sorry for the de rail

Me, too. I understand if I have been struck from the list.

Bossed · Sep 2, 2016

Dave, our Fox project has some small dings in the passenger door. What would be your method to level these out? Could you talk about what kind of "filler" you would use? Thanks

Davedacarpainter · Sep 2, 2016

Bossed said:
Dave, our Fox project has some small dings in the passenger door. What would be your method to level these out? Could you talk about what kind of "filler" you would use? Thanks

Well, how small are they is a big question.

What type of equipment do you have for pulling or pushing out the dents as well.

Regular mud can be wiped over the surface if you're not sure if glaze would fill them.

It's kind of hard to give you an exact answer without seeing them.

If you're not intending the pull/push method to try to level them out more (and keep in mind, the metal on fox doors is extra easy to reshape). Just grind to metal where the mud is to be spread, go back over it with 80 grit on a da and spread whichever type will fill over the dents.

Glaze isn't really a filler, it's primarily used to fill in the heavier scratches from the blocking of the filler.

But if you have some real light ones that primer just won't quite get, glaze is good for that. Look at glaze as the middle between filler and primer.

Bossed · Sep 4, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
Well, how small are they is a big question.

What type of equipment do you have for pulling or pushing out the dents as well.

Regular mud can be wiped over the surface if you're not sure if glaze would fill them.

It's kind of hard to give you an exact answer without seeing them.

If you're not intending the pull/push method to try to level them out more (and keep in mind, the metal on fox doors is extra easy to reshape). Just grind to metal where the mud is to be spread, go back over it with 80 grit on a da and spread whichever type will fill over the dents.

Glaze isn't really a filler, it's primarily used to fill in the heavier scratches from the blocking of the filler.

But if you have some real light ones that primer just won't quite get, glaze is good for that. Look at glaze as the middle between filler and primer.

Thanks Dave, I would call them tiny dings. I used some 600 grit on a durablock and rubbed over the area to highlight them. Do they need to be sanded to bare metal, if not, what grit will give it a sufficient bite? What kind of filler do you recommend for small imperfections ?

Davedacarpainter · Sep 4, 2016

Bossed said:
Thanks Dave, I would call them tiny dings. I used some 600 grit on a durablock and rubbed over the area to highlight them. Do they need to be sanded to bare metal, if not, what grit will give it a sufficient bite? What kind of filler do you recommend for small imperfections ?

I don't see a picture, but, I almost always recommend sanding to the metal. You can just spread glaze over the primer, I would use a much heavier grit for that, no lighter than 320. 220 would be better. 180 even better.

When you put filler, even glaze over something besides metal, you are depending on that substrate to provide a solid base for something that will harden like a rock. If the substrate is softer/more flexible, you can have adhesion problems. Not that you will, but it could be an issue. Think of how heat causes things to swell and shrink at different rates. What may seem insignificant to you may be problematic for the specs of the filler you are using.

Unless you use a flexible filler like you would use on a plastic bumper, the sht hardens like a rock and is as flexible as a rock without the strength of a rock. It is brittle.

That being said, I've seen it done countless times before to move customer cars out. What happens in a year or two from now for those cars seems to be forgotten.

It will eventually cause various shrinkage problems for you that you can buff out in all likely hood.

Final thing, it's your vehicle, do what you'd like. Bare metal is the "approved method" by any mud maker I know of.

Bossed · Sep 4, 2016

Here's a picture of the door.

Davedacarpainter · Sep 4, 2016

Bossed said:
Here's a picture of the door.

Some of those look almost like holes. If they are, weld them first.

What happened to the door?

The visible dent is only part of it, this is why I etched and primered my door first. I could use a long block to see if any of the small obvious dents were actually larger dents. You could probably see this without primer if you use a heavier grit on a longer block. Block across it and see what the scratches look like.

If the scratches do no more than to reveal that you have a crap load of little dents, then I might use a regular mud on that since you would want enough build in it to fill the dents completely. Those dents look like they are probably above the door reinforcement, maybe you might be able to whack them out a little from the backside first?

If you can get the deep part of those little suckers out, glaze may be enough.

Start with a long block and something like 80 grit across them just to see if these dents spread beyond the obvious that you can easily see.

Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

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Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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