Better'n New DaveToday I stripped the bumper with my more aggressive DA and 180 grit.
After that I sanded into all of the gouged areas with 80grit by hand and started to apply the polyflex (a flexible bondo made for bumpers).
I took sections of about one foot long to repair at a time. Any larger of an area and it begins to feel overwhelming.
I also smoothed out the tear repair area and filled what was left in that repair.
After that I applied a coat of plastic adhesion promoter and then four coats of primer.
After the primer has had a chance to harden, I'll block it with 220 grit and check for any missed damage. I'll repair that and reprimer with two more coats and do a final blocking.
I don't know why you guys are still jerking around with internal combustion when one of you could clearly have a put a jet turbine in by now.
Kind of yes and no, depends how long the paint has been delaminating.Dave,
I have the same problem that jrichter has with the clear coat peeling and fading paint underneath. Is it always necessary to completely strip the paint down to bare metal or can it be sanded smooth and repainted?
Thank for all your info in this thread!
Thanks for the reply! I'll get some pics uploaded ASAIC.Kind of yes and no, depends how long the paint has been delaminating.
If it's been awhile, the base coat underneath the clear will absorb various chemicals from the air and gives you an unstable base for your topcoat.
Generally, you can feather out the peeling clearcoat and primer the area similar to what you would do with a repaired area. Allow it a few days to harden and shrink back, then block it out and continue with the rest of the refinishing process.
The only problem you'll have is the shrinking back off the materials you spray on the car. After a week or two you might see sanding lines or a ragged circle imprint if you refinish it too quick. The trick is letting the primer shrink back as much as you can. If you can let the primer sit for a week before sanding it, or more, the better the end result will be in the long term.
Post a picture of your problem, i'll tell you what i would advise for your situation.
Doesn't really matter, I fell in love with the gravity guns when they first came out. But they'll shoot the same when compared apples to apples.Thanks for the reply! I'll get some pics uploaded ASAIC.
Got another question for you...for priming, do you prefer gravity fed sprayers or is the siphon style still acceptable? I have a siphon cup and I sprayed primer before and seems to have done a good job. I was surprised at how well it shot the primer.. as well as my newb skill at shooting it (it was a trunk lid and quarter panel I shot).
Make the bondo feel seamless. Use a rag or paper towel on your hand to run your hand over the surface to check the straightness of the repair.Here's a question for you Dave, when doing body work. Let's says filling a dent or covering a weld. How smooth does the body work have to be before you prime over it? And what can primer cover?
The reason I etch and primer my parts after sand blasting is to stop any chance of rust. I still go back and remove the primer in the area prior to spreading the filler. It's always best to spread filler directly to metal or plastic depending on what you're repairing, of course.For a part that is stripped to metal.
I could epoxy first
Then bodyfiller and 2k priming last?
It seals the surface, so, in that way, yes.Epoxy prevents rust as well correct?
But you recommend etch?It seals the surface, so, in that way, yes.
Not really, they're both good. Etch is just a little easier.B
But you recommend etch?
Use the kit, sand it down so you don't have any flaky rust first though. Always sand, it gives all topcoats something to hold on to.@Davedacarpainter I'm planning on POR15 my engine bay, door jams, and trunk (eventually the entire floor but that will be a much later date). My engine bay has flash rust from a fire years ago, it patina'd and is just never gotten worse.
Should I sand down to bare, Por15 kit (digresser,prep, PO15)
Or
Etch it then the kit
or Just no sanding and use the kit
Use the kit, sand it down so you don't have any flaky rust first though. Always sand, it gives all topcoats something to hold on to.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?