I'm dense, would you reword that question please?Sounds good to me, I just want it to be smooth and not as noticeable. I was literally showing my wife the pictures of your POR15 and some videos on their site; and gave me the idea to just go ahead and do the jambs since when I get it painted I can just do the outside.
Debating on the gray or black now.
Have you repair/prepped metal were the pain got hot before or just replaced the panel?
I'm dense, would you reword that question please?
Make the bondo feel seamless. Use a rag or paper towel on your hand to run your hand over the surface to check the straightness of the repair.
You'll want to use the dry clean rag because the skin on your hand will have the tendencies to feel each surface differently when run directly over it. You'll feel issues in the repair when there may be none at all when using your bare hand.
It's best to finish out the filler repair with 150-180 grit before priming. The deeper the scratches you have, the more primer required to fill it. The more primer you use will have more solvents that escape allowing for more shrinkage of it.
I think I figured out my disconnect. I've been trying to get body filler and the feather edges smooth enough for primer without using glaze...
You gotta use a final glaze to get it to block out right?
Sorry, still learning
Pretty much.Ok, new pics to show more of what I'm dealing with. You can see the original paint, then coats of primer/sealer/ white paint. This will all come off when I do this proper.
Again, this is just for learning, not a final product.
I think , the steps would be to widen the sanded area , do a coat over the weld area to fill it in, knock it down, then do a skin coat over the whole area, then block that with 80-120-150, then a coat of primer??
I'll 100% take you up on that. This has kinda been side tangent, so I'm gonna mess with it tonight for the sake of it, but then it's getting primed and ignored till I'm ready to strip all the paint off. I count at least 5 layers there and it's flaking off on the corners, so it's gotta go.Pretty much.
Feather it a little further like you said. You may get away with just using glaze to fill that. It doesn't look bad at all.
If you use glaze, you won't need as harsh of a grit ofnsandpaper. 80 grit for the initial blocking, just to knock it down. Finish in 150 or 180 prior to primer.
If you ever want me to give you a call, just pm me and I'll tell you what I'd do. I can get across in a couple minutes talking what it would take 15 to type.
Denatured alcohol works pretty good.What do you use to get dried on buffing compound off? When my car was buffed after I had it painted, I found specs of dried compound in lots of places. Been a pain trying to remove it.
Kind of yes and no, depends how long the paint has been delaminating.
If it's been awhile, the base coat underneath the clear will absorb various chemicals from the air and gives you an unstable base for your topcoat.
Generally, you can feather out the peeling clearcoat and primer the area similar to what you would do with a repaired area. Allow it a few days to harden and shrink back, then block it out and continue with the rest of the refinishing process.
The only problem you'll have is the shrinking back off the materials you spray on the car. After a week or two you might see sanding lines or a ragged circle imprint if you refinish it too quick. The trick is letting the primer shrink back as much as you can. If you can let the primer sit for a week before sanding it, or more, the better the end result will be in the long term.
Post a picture of your problem, i'll tell you what i would advise for your situation.
It will need to be stripped.Sorry it took so long to get pics but here they are...
It will need to be stripped.
The problem with large areas of delamination like that is that the underlying basecoat has had time to soak up crap in the air and rain. You would have bad results trying to paint over that.
You can use a DA sander with some 80 grit.Thanks Dave. In your experience, what would you say is the best, easiest way to strip it? I'm not looking for a show finish but I do want it to look decent. Maybe I'll paint it that blue you painted. That paint was pretty awesome.
You can use a DA sander with some 80 grit.
Chemical strippers are an option too, you'll just need to be careful with them. If you want to go this route, ask me specifically about it. It's kind of long winded.
Of course there is the option of a media blaster. Just make sure THEY'RE NOT USING SANDto blast the paint away.
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