It's not really that big of a deal, it is messy though. You don't want that to get anywhere you aren't wanting stripped.
All that said, some 80 grit and then 180 grit and a DA is probably the safest way to go.
It's not really that big of a deal, it is messy though. You don't want that to get anywhere you aren't wanting stripped.I'm going to have to do this myself so media blasting is probably not practical. I've heard that one of the biggest problems with using chemical strippers is neutralizing and removing the stripper.
It's not really that big of a deal, it is messy though. You don't want that to get anywhere you aren't wanting stripped.
All that said, some 80 grit and then 180 grit and a DA is probably the safest way to go.
You sir, are going to make a lot of Dusti finished pulling out all of the stretched metal in the middle of the hood today and spread out the mud.
Pictures are of the finished metal work and mud spread on the hood. Two colors of mud because the second gallon i got had a different colored hardener. works the same, just a different color.
The second picture is a paint stick laying over the left side dent
/warp caused by the sand blasting. That is bad, i showed it just to show how far down the warping is. Look at your hoods and see the difference.
Yes, it's a lot of mud.I want to put a GT hood on my car someday, so this one will last long enough. I did get it pulled straight enough that when i sand this down there won't be a lot left.
Loads and loads....You sir, are going to make a lot of Dust
Knock off the rough sht with a DA.So, you gonna block that by hand? Air file? Knock it down with a da then block?
Will you be cleaning out the tub area first (i.e.:wire wheeling out the old coating)?What would you suggest for undercoating and rear fender well coating? I have my rear end out and figure now is a good time to hit the wells and paint the underside.
Similarly , what paint would you suggest for the rear itself? Por15? Tractor paint?
I understand that, it's a mess cleaning them out and a pain to respray the seam sealerI need to do a more thorough inspection of the areas before I can say. Honestly, if the wheel wells are still intact, I'd like to just get them clean and black again.
Then for the wheel tub area, what I would do is to clean it up real good and spray a coat of undercoating on it. It'll make it look fresh that way.More than anything I want the wells to look
Good and add some protection to the underside. From my time under there I only saw surface rust, but I figure now is s time to covet it, even if it's just simple protection
Ok, spent some time under the car and in the wells. I'm gonna leave the underside alone. It's about spotless. The wells and the frame in that area is 99% spotless , so I'm gonna scuff, clean, and undercoat and call it done. Don't fix was an't broke.Then for the wheel tub area, what I would do is to clean it up real good and spray a coat of undercoating on it. It'll make it look fresh that way.
With the rear end out, unless you have any real rust issues, just undercoat it all. Be sure to scuff the area first with at least a red scotchbrite to help the undercoating to stay stuck.
First, the clips. They have them just about anyplace like LMR, NPD, etc....Thank you for you previous help.
I've figured out how to remove the windshield trim without damaging it. I used the arrowhead trim tool shown in the picture you posted. Is the same tool used to remove the door metal trim? Are the door trim clips the same as the windshield trim clips?
A couple of the windshield trim clips look a little sprung due to my learning how to use the trim removal tool. Are the trim clips available and if so is there a trick to replacing them?
I've got two t-tops, so I can't look at that trim. But if memory serves me properly, it's a press on piece of trim.@Davedacarpainter
I already got the plastic bar next to the window off and painted some time ago.
The door trim that I need to remove now is the metal trim that looks like the windshield trim. Does it use the same tool as the windshield trim?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint? Should I prime the whole trim strip or just the places that I sanded through the paint to bare metal?
if you mean the piece right above the door, theres one screw at the base of the a-pillar and then its a a few clips and some gooey glue/sealer (at least mine had the sealer, nasty stuff) and it just peels off like a piece of weatherstrip.@Davedacarpainter
I already got the plastic bar next to the window off and painted some time ago.
The door trim that I need to remove now is the metal trim that looks like the windshield trim. Does it use the same tool as the windshield trim?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint? Should I prime the whole trim strip or just the places that I sanded through the paint to bare metal?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?