You are talking about the trim that goes around the frame for the window, right? And not the belt moulding?
You are talking about the trim that goes around the frame for the window, right? And not the belt moulding?@Davedacarpainter
I already got the plastic bar next to the window off and painted some time ago.
The door trim that I need to remove now is the metal trim that looks like the windshield trim. Does it use the same tool as the windshield trim?
I sanded through the black paint on the trim in a few places. Is it advisable to prime it before applying the SEM black trim paint? Should I prime the whole trim strip or just the places that I sanded through the paint to bare metal?
If you are talking about the aluminum "cap" that sits on the door frame around the window glass, that just peels off. It's held on simply from a tight fit. I just got a screw driver under an edge, and started prying it off a little at a time.I've got two t-tops, so I can't look at that trim. But if memory serves me properly, it's a press on piece of trim.
Mike just did his, let's ask him. @madmike1157 ?
I would sand and primer the whole piece of trim myself. The primer helps with adhesion and gives a small layer of "padding" under your top coat.
That's plastic and I have already taken care of that.if you mean the piece right above the door, theres one screw at the base of the a-pillar and then its a a few clips and some gooey glue/sealer (at least mine had the sealer, nasty stuff) and it just peels off like a piece of weatherstrip.
In that case, what mike said.That's plastic and I have already taken care of that.
It's the metal trim around the sides and top of the door window frame. It looks a lot like the metal trim around the top and sides of the windshield.
Uhm, his style of painting is different than mine. Really can't say much more. It may work for him.
If it helps I think he's just spraying some single stage hot rod blackUhm, his style of painting is different than mine. Really can't say much more. It may work for him.
No offense Joe, but he pulls right to left quicker than left to right.
I don't really like critiquing other painters too much unless they are the ones asking me too. Or they're just clowns that i want to ridicule.
That's were a practiced eye picks up things that the rest of us don't notice...Uhm, his style of painting is different than mine. Really can't say much more. It may work for him.
No offense Joe, but he pulls right to left quicker than left to right.
I don't really like critiquing other painters too much unless they are the ones asking me too. Or they're just clowns that i want to ridicule.
Looks like it should work; the hard part is getting a weather tight electrical connection where the PIP sensor inside the distributor connects to the TFI module.I have a @jrichker might possibly answer question.
Can I make my own tfi relocation kit ?
Like splicing/extending the OE pigtails etc?
Sorry Dave, last derail I'll do for a while
You can, but the t-tops were a matte (ish) finish though.When painting trim and trim like parts. What would you suggest? Sem?
In my application I need to reprint the entire t-top frame area, all of it was painted body color. I'm worried sem won't be very resistant to the constant removing and installing of the t tops.
With my car going back to black... I shouldn't just paint it with the rest should I?
Sounds fine to me. I would definitely reduce it though. It says that it could be made into a sealer by reduction alone. I wouldn't if i were you. Primers are more porous and don't have the necessary resins to be a real sealer. Just as a primer though, sure.Ok, really thinking of using this.
Says it's dtm and sandible for top coat. Seems real good for a budget job
Thoughts
http://www.tamcopaint.com/hpdtmgr2kprw.html
It says it's direct to metal. So you shouldn't need etch or epoxy to adhere.So you wouldn't skip using etch or epoxy with it? That's the main draw for me, skipping a step would be nice
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