Yeah, right along the seam underneath the windshield. It's really no big deal doing it the right way. I would even say it's easy.
It's harder to go back and seam stitch when cutting of the panel with a cut off wheel.
Yeah, right along the seam underneath the windshield. It's really no big deal doing it the right way. I would even say it's easy.Thanks for the info. I have been looking on eBay for some reference photos of the pieces people have on there. It looks like most people just cut it out with a wheel. I assume they are doing this because it takes less time than drilling out all the welds. It also looks like they cut near the windshield. Are the welds under the windshield? I don't mind drilling because it would have to be done anyway.
if you intend to primer it after the blocking use 180. If not, 320.Gonna try to block the current paint on my car. What grit do you suggest?
I would go ahead and block it first. Are there areas you're worried about flaking off?Yeah, my plan is to block out the current paint first, as long as no problems arise, I'll hit it with a primer or sealer, block with a higher grit and go.
Would it hurt it hit it with a da first? Figure that'll show if anything is gonna flake
I would go ahead and block it first. Are there areas you're worried about flaking off?
When you block shiny paint, it's easy to see the areas that need further work.
You're going back to the original color though, right? Is any of the white paint peeling? I wonder how thorough of a prep job the previous painter did prior to spraying the white?
He sprayed the wheel wells?In the wheels wells ,
He sprayed the wheel wells?
I wouldn't be overly worried about it. You're going black, right?
Grab a rattle can of black and spray over it.
If you want to go for a glory fix, take the wheels out, get a knotted wire wheel and grind off the undercoating and respray with a sprayable seam sealer. Bit of a pain in the ass there.
Rattle can of black paint is my easiest suggestion.
Ah, in that case you'll want to feather those areas out with a DA until it no longer chips or peals before primering it. If you don't, the primer will cause that area to lift.Sorry, I misspoke. Like, the fender lips. Looks like they didn't get in there and really sand.
Hey all, I'm Dave. I know, starting like an AA meeting right? Now you'all say,"Hi Dave".
Seriously though. I'm an automotive painter. I have been for a long time now, I started back in 1977 as a kid sanding new dodge vans with 600 wet/dry sandpaper so my brother could paint custom paint jobs on them(the seventies had a van craze going on back then, trick paint jobs, water beds inside).
I've got my own build thread going and a couple people seem interested in different areas of painting vehicles.
I was thinking that if enough people showed interest, I would spend the time to get a thread going on how to paint a vehicle.
Now this would be for those wanting to paint their own vehicles at home or in a rented booth. I could get more detailed for those with more experience as it would go on.
My experience:
I have been an ASE certified painter for a very long time.
If it matters, I'm a third level platinum certified paint tech with ICAR.
I have been certified by most of the major paint manufacturers in their individual systems (Sikkens, PPG Global, Nexa, DuPont, Sherwin Wiliams, etc....)
I've trained literally dozens of people from zero knowledge of painting to become painters over the years.
I spent 11 years in the army, what does this have to do with painting? They trained me not only to be proficient in the areas I was specializing in, but to also train others to become proficient in these areas. Glorified trainer that got to jump out of an airplane once in a while. A specialized meet and greeter, you might say....lol.
Anywho, if your interested, let me know.
This would take some time to work through the whole thing. Maybe I could focus on a topic each month.
Now, I could cover each subject as I would a new apprentice, if you want. This will take a while to get to info you might want.
During this process, if you have a question in a different area than what I'm covering, then just ask. I can PM you with any help I have to offer. I am still currently painting and have resources beyond myself. Though I have the experience of painting literally tens of thousands of cars.
I'm not trying to brag, I know, in the end, I'm just a carpainter. The army taught me what a true hero is, but I am good at what I do. I will deal with you honestly from real experience.
Sooooo, let me know what you think......What's in it for me?
I LOVE painting, I want you to love it too. Besides, all of you know stuff I don't and will probably need to know. I WILL be asking you for info in return.
Oh, btw, though I said you don't have to spend as much as I did on my guns, but if you can, do it. The extra money makes getting the paint to lay out nice a whole lot easier.
There's really no great way to touch them up. Try to get a touch up bottle from a dealership if it's a modern color.Dave ole' buddy,
What's the best way to touch up/fix pearl paint chips ?
Yeah, that third one from the left is the one you'd want. Cheap is good in this instance.What would you suggest for removing the trim around the windshields?
Would this work?
http://m.harborfreight.com/4-piece-windshield-door-trim-tool-set-38386.html
I typically block up to 600 grit, some will go up to 800 but there's a lot of different opinions on that. I always use a block for final sanding but heck I've seen people use a DA sander for "blocking" the guide coat. They sell really good kits that have blocks of all shapes and sizes.Ok, some questions with a bump for the thread.
I got the cheap Windshield tool above and it worked like a charm, got a free tarp, batteries and a flashlight too.. I love harbor freight.
Ok, as you know I've laid my primer and let it cure. I'm starting my blocking tonight. Trying to figure out what sand papers I need so I don't waste money. I got a 40 yard roll of 220 to start things. For dealing with blocking the primer what grits would you suggest?
220 b-- see if reprime is needed
320 block ---
Then what? And for the final sand, is it more blocking, or is it by hand to just remove scratches. Thanks Dave!!
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