Yeah, 220 is a great grit to start with. You'll probably want to reprimer after that because the primer probably won't be thick enough to last through all of the sanding.
After a reprimer, block again with 320-400. Then you'll jump up to 500-600 grit. Your going solid black so I don't really think you'll need to go to 800. Use a guide coat between grits to be sure you're removing the heavier scratches, as well as straightening the panel.
You don't have to strip the whole car unless the paint is fubar'd. Meaning large areas of clear delamination (pealing).Dave, thanks for all the help. I figure I would ask my questions on here versus pm in case someone else has the same issues and so you don't have to post in two different spots. Thanks for the tips on laying a smoothing high build primer. I found that my pressure was too low and causing it to lay too blotchy. I adjusted the pressure and it laid out much smoother. I need to play with the material knob a little more and I'm sure it will be fine.
My question/scenario to you today is this:
I took my hood down to metal and it wasn't fun. The reason I did it was because there was a lot of peeling and it had 80's decal pen stripping on the hood and on the sides. I figured it was best to take it down to metal best I could. For the rest of the car can I just take those pieces that are flaking to metal and primer those? Then block the whole car and paint? Or should I continue with sanding down to metal on whole car since the paint is all crap?
Sure, as long as rust isn't an issue. Post a picture somI can understand a little better.So I've been working on trying to get my engine bay stripped and ready for either primer of filler (was hoping to epoxy prime it to seal it since I work so slow). There's a lot of tight spots where I can't get anything mechanical in, and 80 grit by hand seems to barely touch the 3-4 layers of paint/primer that are there. Can I just feather out what I can and then prime/fill over it?
The plastic is pretty thick, so it probably could be saved. Use some 80 grit on a DA and see how far down its dried out. AZ sun is tough, it may have dry rotted it too far to fix.Here is a close up of the rear bumper.
What do you think Dave? Worth saving?
Mine were the same. The ones from LMR are under $20 though. They are raw plastic, so you'll need to paint them.
.......
Arizona heat takes its toll on plastic and rubber. Both lower windshield trim pieces broke at the tabs.
Sure, as long as rust isn't an issue. Post a picture somI can understand a little better.
With the eb area you don't have to worry a lot about UV light, or road grime. So damage is limited to engine grime and inner rot working it's way into that area.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?