Normally, I'd address that further,...but Ive already put a penny on the tracks already....I don't wanna take a chance of a multi-car derail here.Careful, you can stoned to death saying stuff like that around these parts.
Ok Mike, I don't have much experience with the "grocery store" beer.UhhhCouple of questions...
Will beer purchased from the grocery store suffice? The stuff at the liquor store is more expensive,...and you know how I feel about spending good money on something that will essentially render the same result for less.
Do I have to eat "chow" at 10PM, or can I eat at a time closer to the typically designated slot allotted for that purpose?
Yeah, I as going to be covering that probably next.Something that would help me is a list of the required tool and a list of tools that are not required but help.
I know I'm looking at getting a blocking set, a high speed buffer, I've wondered about powered block sanders.
They still sell the different types of DA's cheap. The sales help may be a little clueless, just read the boxes.A da was the first thing I got. It's a cheapie so I'm not sure if it's larger or smaller. I know it's a 6" . The air file is what I was looking at. But I'm
Mainly worried about blocking primer and that's overkill right?
+1 to durablockIf I can interject, I'll add the " hobbiest" perspective to the required tools question:
#1. Adequate compressor
An adequate compressor is the only item in the required tools list that will get used outside of this "once in ten years" adventure that Dave is taking us on. Consequently, it is also the only tool that I'll break my " good enough" quality standard when it comes to buying one. Put the biggest capacity 2stage compressor that you can financially justify in your garage, and it'll be there for life. And,.... Your wife won't btch you out too bad when you forget to turn it off, and it turns on at 3AM because of the slow leak in your cheap assed HF regulator. Try to buy a unit rated at 5hp, w/ a 60-80 gal upright tank like the type sold at HD for about 500.00
2. A good DA sander. Again, you'll use the hell out of one of these, and I find uses for it everywhere on the monster. Since by the very nature of the beast these things move every time you pull the trigger, a better unit will have better internals/bearings and will last longer. Additionally, a better unit will do all of that and consume less air pressure, so your compressor will be less likely to run all the damn time. Price? I got no clue, I've had mine for 20 years, I can't comment on current pricing.
As stated by the increasingly popular painter in chief Dave, Sureform and Durablock make kits that you can buy all of your soft sanders and blocks. I buy these things ala-carte at my body shop supplier. Usually between 15-25.00 each.
As for the required airlines, and regulator/filter/driers... All of that junk can be bought at HF. They do sell a better grade butyl rubber hose similar to shop hoses, and you'll want that. In the pictures I take, you'll see that I can say that from example, as the hose on my reel is not the " good stuff" and you end up with a rigid hose that will not lay out nicely, especially when cold. Again, better quality is usually defined by price here, and HF has both. Spend the extra, and get the good junk as opposed to the bad junk.
Paint guns? I'll not profess to offer an opinion in an experts thread. All I'll say is that there is a plethora of choices out there that dont say devilbiss or sata, or binks on them that will work . How well they work, or for how long,.......you'll have to ask the man.
Craft beer is so worth the extra 2-3 dollars.Ok Mike, I don't have much experience with the "grocery store" beer.
Just like the paint guns, you can get by with the cheaper stuff, but the pricier liquor store beer is worth its value.
Now let's say that you are buying the beer and will be giving me some of it for free, then I have no problem whatsoever with the cheap beer. Due to the financial arrangement stated above for purchase of said beer, I would even go so far as to say I support this action.
But, do what you want to.....
Yep, strip it completely.Dave I have a rust question-
The entire roof on my father in laws 86 ford truck is covered in surface rust. It's not pitted or rusted through,will It need to sanded to bare metal?
I can take a pic tomorrow if needed
Lots of good info in here-thanks again
@Boosted92LX and I know a guy who SWEARS by that muriatic acid stuff. I think he even sprinkles some in his coffee in the mornings for that extra kick.Yep, strip it completely.
If it's just surface rust, it should all sand off.
If it's pitted, it wouldn't hurt to get phosphoric acid and treat it.
Some might suggest muriatic acid for this, don't do that. It will remove the by products of rust (the orange brown stuff, or rust poop), but it starts a chemical reaction that is difficult to stop.
Anywho, yep, strip it, treat it. Primer with an acid etch primer and then follow through with the priming/refinishing process.
I know Mike loves it.@Boosted92LX and I know a guy who SWEARS by that muriatic acid stuff. I think he even sprinkles some in his coffee in the mornings for that extra kick.
*waits under table for verbal lashing*
Go ahead and post a picture, let me see what it looks like.Dave I have a rust question-
The entire roof on my father in laws 86 ford truck is covered in surface rust. It's not pitted or rusted through,will It need to sanded to bare metal?
I can take a pic tomorrow if needed
Lots of good info in here-thanks again
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