Fox hood blew open!

C&R Racing

New Member

Apr 21, 2004

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May 5, 2004

#1

• May 5, 2004

• #1

My 84 1/2 20th Anniversary 5.0 had the hood blow open, and now there is severe damage to the cowl in front of the windshield. The plastic grille is easily replaceable, but the metal portions on either side are smashed in.

I found a good replacement hood and hinges, no problem, but does anyone have any experience repairing the sheet metal cowl, or does anyone know of replacement skins for those panels?

I am in Indianapolis if anyone knows of someone locally who is experienced in this area.

Thanks in advance for any help

 

Smokedawg

Founding Member

Jul 6, 2001

2,260

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May 5, 2004

#2

• May 5, 2004

• #2

I am 35 minutes east of Indy and know a good body man in my town who has painted my Mustang and S-10 and does great work..If you cant find anyone else let me know..

-Smoke

 

cmb91LX

New Member

Apr 20, 2004

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Memphis

May 5, 2004

#3

• May 5, 2004

• #3

this has happened to me before and also 2 of my friends, depending on the damage to get it pulled and straightened can run from 250-500 to be done right. What about roof damage, did it put 2 creases above the windshield? These cost to fix also. I know of no replacement skins for these panels on the cowl.

 

Legendary

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Oct 10, 2002

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City of Angels

May 5, 2004

#4

• May 5, 2004

• #4

Just curious, is this a stock hood that blew open?

 

C

clifdawg

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Jan 23, 2004

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Georgia

May 5, 2004

#5

• May 5, 2004

• #5

Happened to me twice with the same Stang. Don't laugh. My car looked good. I had the Mach 1 hood, and the first time, only damage was the cowl between windshield and hood and a slight crack in the fiberglass hood. Guy who painted it fixed me up for a like 200. We could see where we knew he used a little filler, but the second time, it busted my windshield, did some pretty good damage to the hood, recrushed the cowl panel, and put the two creases in the top of the car. To make it even worse, we saw what the body man did to fix it the first time. He didn't even attempt pulling the cowl up. It was like inches deep with filler. We still haven't fixed it, but when and if we do, we plan to cut the old panel out and weld in one from a donor car. GOOD body man should be able to help you out without hittin the wallet too hard. Talk to Smokedawg and see about his body man. Good luck.

 

C&R Racing

New Member

Apr 21, 2004

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May 5, 2004

#6

• May 5, 2004

• #6

Yes it was a stock hood. No roof damage, thankfully!

Yeah, one thing I want to avoid is 2 inches of filler!

The recess where the hood fits above the firewall is tweaked a little, too.

Smokedawg, let me know the name of your bodyman. I have a buddy who thinks he can pop it up with a porta-power and hammer it back into shape, but just in case, I need a back-up plan.

It's funny no one does a replacement kit, as it sounds like I'm not the only one who has had this problem!

 

Smokedawg

Founding Member

Jul 6, 2001

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May 5, 2004

#7

• May 5, 2004

• #7

The name of the shop is TopCoat Refinishing...They are located in Knightstown and his number is 765-345-2268. Ask for Mark, let him know Derek sent ya..I am down there about 4 days a week..

 

C&R Racing

New Member

Apr 21, 2004

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May 5, 2004

#8

• May 5, 2004

• #8

Thanks, Dawg!

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

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Stafford,VA

www.geocities.com

May 5, 2004

#9

• May 5, 2004

• #9

i think everyone should use hood pins i hate to see this happen.

 

SwAmPf0x

Founding Member

Dec 29, 2001

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Hell Hole Swamp

May 5, 2004

#10

• May 5, 2004

• #10

Happened to me as well, I repaired mine, straightened as best I could and then used body filler, turned out very well, you can buy a replacement panel but it is expensive, and replacing it involves removing the....

hood
windshield
fenders
dash

In other words....a PITA

 

C&R Racing

New Member

Apr 21, 2004

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May 5, 2004

#11

• May 5, 2004

• #11

Yeah, I saw that one at the local dealer. It is actually the complete firewall-dash bulkhead. I went there hoping to see some 'splash' panels that you could bond & rivet in, then use a minimal amount of filler to finish off the job.

BTW, that is now a discontinued part, I was told.