I've just completed my 5 lug / disc upgrade. Replaced a bunch of bushings and noticed the rag joint looks a bit dubious. That led me to steering shafts and these questions. Only 1 shaft seems to have vibration reduction (Borgeson 658), do I need vibration reduction? What is a good brand? There seem to be quite a few. Car is 88 vert, GT power steering.
I'm running a Borgeson in my SN and love it! The stock shaft with 12k miles on it felt really sloppy. In prepping my car for road racing some years ago, I replaced my steering rack with a low-lash unit, installed poly urethane rack bushings, replaced my lower control arms with new terminator A-arms, installed the FR 2000R tie rod ends, and was still surprised by how bad the on-cetner feel was. Initially, I replaced the steering shaft with a brand new terminator shaft but it made very little improvement. I was warned by many people, including some from the road-racing crowd, that a solid steering shaft would be too rough for the street (my car is a street and track car) and brutal on the track. I couldn't disagree more. I installed the Borgeson shaft with the vibration isolator and it was a night and day improvement. The on-center feel was significantly improved. I didn't notice any increased vibration in the steering wheel at all, and the steering response is instantaneous without the spongy feel of a rag joint flexing. It a was a hefty sum to plunk down $330 for just a steering shaft, but well worth it. The only bummer was that it comes bare-metal / unpainted, so I had to prep and paint it before installation. For that price it would have been nice if they powder coated it from the factory. I haven't driven a FOX3 with one installed, but if the improvement is similar to an SN95 I don't think you'll be disappointed. My only regret is not doing it sooner.
Note: If you buy one, make sure that it is a model with a collapsible section for safety!
I used a universal u joint from Amazon. It was a 36 spline DD ( or double D ) 3/4 inch. I removed the rag joint bracket with a hammer. Do like PeeWee Herman and just beat it off. I had the shaft machined to DD because the factory one is round. You could get almost the same result with a grinder and patience. Removing a little at a time until snug fit. The hold down bolt hole was marked on the machined end and a hole was drilled to accept the pinch bolt. Very easy amd very cheap. A bunch of guys here do that and get them welded on. The other 36 spline end will slide right on the rack.
I did the upgrade last year , pretty straight forward install with a noticeable improvement.
I had actually bought the universal knuckle and was going to cut /weld etc. Ended up finding
this one on Corral from a local seller who gave me a great price.
I got the joint off ebay last month. Will be doing this mod sometime soonish. And the little screws that are on the joint, you should pull out and put some red loctite on them before install. Ima weld and pin(bolt/nut) mine.
I knew I was bolting mine on so did the DD type so it would be serviceable. Actually thought my turbo header overheated the first joint and order another to replace it. Found nothing wrong with the previous one. Replaced it anyway. I'd never use the 3/4 smooth one unless I was getting it welded. Even then I'd prefer the the DD one.
One nut/bolt at the top by the firewall, set screw at the rack.
You'll need to loosen the to large bolts holding the rack and slide it forward a bit
for removal and install.
DD refers to the shape of the universal joint opposite the spline side.