Engine Foxbody cooling and idling

Wayne Waldrep said:

Not bad advice at all but I haven't had that on my car for 20 years. He also has underdrive pulleys which I'd definitely remove but his issue sounds more involved than either of these. Just my opinion which could in fact be completely wrong!

Click to expand...

Just a quick thought, I agree on the underdrives.

OP states just had engine work done, so does this mean the cooling issue has been going on since the
the overhaul was completed.
If so are you sure you've gotten all the air out of the system ?

For what it's worth I've been running a 2 row ebay aluminum radiator , 2000 Intrepid fans controlled by a Flexalite vsc33054 for quite a while.
I've had this set-up on my 302 with various superchargers installed and I now currently run it on my n/a 393w.
I've had good luck with it, the Intrepid fan shroud covers the entire width of the radiator and about 3/4 of the height.
Operating temps on my current 393w run about 190-195.

Re-reading the thread, I have some thoughts/ideas.

With a modified engine, do you have a wideband hooked up. You may be running lean at idle which would cause the rapid warm up. Not an issue, but something to think about with the tune (does the lean condition remain at greater RPMs).

Based on getting temp reading from t-stat housing downstream of t-stat should give accurate reading to your ECU of what coolant temp leaving the engine is. With set points as low as you have them (fans on at 184, off at 179) looks like you want a cold engine. Remember the stock ECU wants engine around 190-195.

So if your fans are actually coming on at 185 (at the engine) and you are still getting hot, then you are either not drawing much air through the rad (by the fans) or coolant is not flowing enough through the rad to be cooled sufficiently. If you open the rad cap and watch as you start up the car, can you see coolant flowing out of the tubes into the rad tank? If not flowing well, you may need a rad flush.

Another thing to look at is, when idling, is the lower rad hose collapsing? This would restrict the overall flow in the system as well. With a stock water pump I wouldn't expect this to be the case, but it can still happen. I know some have a metal coil in the lower rad hose to prevent this collapse. My car does not have one.

Doesn't look like it's afr realated.
Those funnels usually work pretty well, I've used them to bleed reverse cooled systems with pretty good success.
Having a good radiator cap is a cheap investment , if the current one is suspect I would replace.
When engine work was done was the water pump replaced and if so was it replaced with the correct reverse rotation pump ?

amkullar said:

The rad on the passenger side is warmer then the driver side when I check with a laser gun

Click to expand...

That would make sense as hot coolant enters on the passenger side of rad, should get cooled as it passed through the rad, so driver side would be cooler.

amkullar said:

After about 5 mins the level will drop and you can see the coolant flow then.

Click to expand...

That would happen when the t-stat opens, thus starting flow through the system. Once the flow starts and fluid level in rad tank drops, I usually add more coolant, essentially topping up as air continues to burp out through the rad tubes. When coolant stops going down in the tank, you should be good to go. Overflow tank will catch the rest.

Out of curiousity, what were the temps you were seeing with the laser gun (thermo gun).

Might have them wired backwards then. If the fans are on, it should pull them into the rad (when in front).

Yes should be pulling air through the radiator.