Tires brand new and brand new roadforce balance. I don't have a factory fan but the vibration is really the mid to rear of the car you feel it on your butt more than anything but the mirror will be shaking bad so it runs through the whole car
Tires brand new and brand new roadforce balance. I don't have a factory fan but the vibration is really the mid to rear of the car you feel it on your butt more than anything but the mirror will be shaking bad so it runs through the whole carWhere do you feel it the most...center console...rear of car...steering wheel ? I've seen some weird stuff in my years as a technician. Sometimes tires can have imperfections in the radial belt that can cause vibrations at speeds over 45mph. The only way to find out is with a road force balance. All shops don't have that type of balancer but it is the best. I've had instances where the tires have balanced to zero with a conventional balance but the customer still had vibration issues. Once we put it on the road force balancer we found we had to rotate the tire on the rim in order to counter out of roundness in the tire.
The issue with conventional tire balancers is they don't simulate load on the wheel. The road force machines actually put a load on the rim and tire and measure the weight and how far out of round the wheel tire combo is.
Like every one else has said...including you. If it started when the clutch was done then it probably has something to do with that. If it doesn't change in or out of gear...or on or off the gas...then you can almost cancel out the trans and rear. Axles and flanges can also bend causing vibrations that don't change except for speed.
at 50mph you're not spinning the motor at 5000rpm. at 50mph you should be somewhere around 2000rpm. Load is load and rpm is rpm. So, 2000 rpm in 3rd gear is like 2000rpm in 4th and 5th. The wrong flywheel will shake the teeth out of your mouth at the same rpm.
I had a car that had a broken factory plastic fan blade. That thing shook worse than a misfire and solid motor mounts. Check the fan blades. While jacking letting the motor tilt back to remove the trans its pretty easy to hit the shroud and crack a fan blade... Trust me...I've been there and done that.
Tires brand new and brand new roadforce balance. I don't have a factory fan but the vibration is really the mid to rear of the car you feel it on your butt more than anything but the mirror will be shaking bad so it runs through the whole carWhere do you feel it the most...center console...rear of car...steering wheel ? I've seen some weird stuff in my years as a technician. Sometimes tires can have imperfections in the radial belt that can cause vibrations at speeds over 45mph. The only way to find out is with a road force balance. All shops don't have that type of balancer but it is the best. I've had instances where the tires have balanced to zero with a conventional balance but the customer still had vibration issues. Once we put it on the road force balancer we found we had to rotate the tire on the rim in order to counter out of roundness in the tire.
The issue with conventional tire balancers is they don't simulate load on the wheel. The road force machines actually put a load on the rim and tire and measure the weight and how far out of round the wheel tire combo is.
Like every one else has said...including you. If it started when the clutch was done then it probably has something to do with that. If it doesn't change in or out of gear...or on or off the gas...then you can almost cancel out the trans and rear. Axles and flanges can also bend causing vibrations that don't change except for speed.
at 50mph you're not spinning the motor at 5000rpm. at 50mph you should be somewhere around 2000rpm. Load is load and rpm is rpm. So, 2000 rpm in 3rd gear is like 2000rpm in 4th and 5th. The wrong flywheel will shake the teeth out of your mouth at the same rpm.
I had a car that had a broken factory plastic fan blade. That thing shook worse than a misfire and solid motor mounts. Check the fan blades. While jacking letting the motor tilt back to remove the trans its pretty easy to hit the shroud and crack a fan blade... Trust me...I've been there and done that.
It was real work out like it went out on me while drivingDoes your trans leak at the rear seal ? A tail shaft bushing can cause a vibration, too. Usually, that would change with load also...ie. on and off the gas in gear. It might be worth bit to pull the trans and check the flywheel and clutch. If you know someone that knows how to use a dial indicator you could have them check axle run out.
What happened when the clutch was replaced ? Was it worn out ?
Honestly though, wouldn't a 28oz flywheel shake the crap out of the poor engine?
It wouldn't matter if it was idling or running at 5k (not that it would rev that high at all with a 28oz instead of the 50oz).
@mikestang63 ?
It doesn't happen with rpms at all it's all speed relatedHe couldnt rev that thing up with the wrong balanced flywheel. It would shake like a paint can at Home Depot.
That's what i thought you were saying.It doesn't happen with rpms at all it's all speed related
He already has an aluminum ds that he had balanced.If it's a speed related vibration, especially on a car with a factory driveshaft, it's a 98% chance that driveshaft is the culprit. The balance on them from the factory was terrible, and they are terrible about throwing weights, resulting in an enormous buzzing vibration. I tried three different factory driveshafts in my car before giving up and buying a new aluminum ford racing unit. They are worth every penny. Installed it and the vibration went away and never returned. Time to bit the bullet it sounds like.
He already has an aluminum ds that he had balanced.
It gets worse the faster. And it started after the clutch job so I would take the bent acle out of the picture cause it didn't bend an axle in between that time. I'm wondering if I should just go head and buy a brand new aluminum driveshaft but I'm worried I'll pay 300$ and still have the same exact problem and I never took the pinion thing off I'm sorry I really have no clue about rear ends the pinion is the thing the ds connects to? Am I right I don't mean to sound like an idiot but I'm still learning the more I learn the better and thanks for all the replys I've been working a lot lately and haven't had enough time to get under the car. But should I go ahead and buy a new ds if clocking it doesn't workOk let me ask this, does it oscillate or is it constant, does it get more pronounced the faster you go?
Yeah, the pinion flange is that disc on the rear end that the drive shaft bolts too.It gets worse the faster. And it started after the clutch job so I would take the bent acle out of the picture cause it didn't bend an axle in between that time. I'm wondering if I should just go head and buy a brand new aluminum driveshaft but I'm worried I'll pay 300$ and still have the same exact problem and I never took the pinion thing off I'm sorry I really have no clue about rear ends the pinion is the thing the ds connects to? Am I right I don't mean to sound like an idiot but I'm still learning the more I learn the better and thanks for all the replys I've been working a lot lately and haven't had enough time to get under the car. But should I go ahead and buy a new ds if clocking it doesn't work
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