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Frame rail rust repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter Trogdor
  • Start date Start date Jul 22, 2023
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Trogdor

5 Year Member
Aug 30, 2018
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Anna, TX
Jul 22, 2023
#1
  • Jul 22, 2023
  • #1
Finally getting around to fix this. Driver's side is much worse, passenger is only a small section. Just wanted to share some pictures of what it looks like. Today we dropped the K-Member, tomorrow we make the repairs and try to turn the car back into a roller. Here are some pictures:

View from the wheelwell




View from the engine compartment, we had already cut a viewing window


Inside view looking towards the front


Looking towards the rear


Here are the bolts that were holding the K-Member to the frame rail
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Claremore, OK
Jul 22, 2023
#2
  • Jul 22, 2023
  • #2
Holy crap…man that sucks but looking forward to the progress on fixing them.
 

bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
15 Year Member
Jun 7, 2012
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Little Elm, TX
Jul 23, 2023
#3
  • Jul 23, 2023
  • #3
Oh wow! That was NOT safe at all! Glad you're fixing it right.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Jul 23, 2023
#4
  • Jul 23, 2023
  • #4
And are those copper brake lines?
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
Dec 29, 2017
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Jul 23, 2023
#5
  • Jul 23, 2023
  • #5
Trogdor said:
Finally getting around to fix this. Driver's side is much worse, passenger is only a small section. Just wanted to share some pictures of what it looks like. Today we dropped the K-Member, tomorrow we make the repairs and try to turn the car back into a roller. Here are some pictures:

View from the wheelwell




View from the engine compartment, we had already cut a viewing window


Inside view looking towards the front


Looking towards the rear


Here are the bolts that were holding the K-Member to the frame rail
Click to expand...
My K member bolts looked similar to that. I was pretty shocked when I saw them, as the steel around it looked ok.
LMR to the rescue with new bolts!
 

Kid wita 5oh

I'm definitely not in the original hole
Founding Member
Nov 5, 2000
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Saugus, MA
Jul 24, 2023
#6
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #6
General karthief said:
And are those copper brake lines?
Click to expand...
Looks like NiCop brake line. Best stuff they ever came out with.
 
Reactions: General karthief

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
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In the garage
Jul 24, 2023
#7
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #7
geez man, that was not safe to drive. Lots of work there for sure. Easier to pull the engine .. You might want to consider A tubular front end from Team Z as it is lighter, stronger, and will allow you to run a whole host of options for suspension, tires, etc. It may also be actually cheaper and less hours in the end. Have you checked the cowl and rocker areas?
 

Trogdor

5 Year Member
Aug 30, 2018
195
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Anna, TX
Jul 24, 2023
#8
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #8
mikestang63 said:
geez man, that was not safe to drive. Lots of work there for sure. Easier to pull the engine .. You might want to consider A tubular front end from Team Z as it is lighter, stronger, and will allow you to run a whole host of options for suspension, tires, etc. It may also be actually cheaper and less hours in the end. Have you checked the cowl and rocker areas?
Click to expand...

Engine and transmission are already out. I did toy with the idea of a tubular K-member, but I'm looking at at least $500+ and that is not including control arms. Just trying to get it repaired so I can drive it. I'm doing heads/cam/intake and full exhaust while everything is apart.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#9
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #9
mikestang63 said:
geez man, that was not safe to drive.
Click to expand...


Genuinely curious if there have any been any catastrophic failures due to rusted out rails/towers. Being in the northeast, i've seen some pretty nasty cars where you can look in the wheel well and see the headers. And these cars are still being driven. Really makes me wonder...
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#10
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #10
Mustang5L5 said:
Genuinely curious if there have any been any catastrophic failures due to rusted out rails/towers. Being in the northeast, i've seen some pretty nasty cars where you can look in the wheel well and see the headers. And these cars are still being driven. Really makes me wonder...
Click to expand...
" Just rolled in" on youtube.... I am shocked at what kind of morons are on the road every episode..
 

Trogdor

5 Year Member
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Anna, TX
Jul 24, 2023
#11
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #11
We did not get to the car yesterday. I've ordered replacement bolts and we are using a repair kit that I found on eBay. Probably be next weekend before anymore progress is made.
 

pats91

15 Year Member
Mar 6, 2007
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Gladstone, MO
Jul 24, 2023
#12
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #12
Trogdor said:
We did not get to the car yesterday. I've ordered replacement bolts and we are using a repair kit that I found on eBay. Probably be next weekend before anymore progress is made.
Click to expand...
What kit did you get? I will be doing similar repairs on my car this winter.
 

Trogdor

5 Year Member
Aug 30, 2018
195
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Anna, TX
Jul 24, 2023
#13
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #13
pats91 said:
What kit did you get? I will be doing similar repairs on my car this winter.
Click to expand...
Google "Fox body strut tower repair kit" and look for the one on ebay that is around $45.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jul 24, 2023
#14
  • Jul 24, 2023
  • #14
I used the scott rod kit on one side, and a donor rail from a 99-04 on the other
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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#15
  • Jul 25, 2023
  • #15
Went through this about 11-12 years ago on an old project. It's not all that bad, just time consuming and labor intensive. Yours looks better than mine did....




Good luck with your project! Hope it goes smoothly for you!!
 
Reactions: Shakerhood, KZGUNS and limp

KZGUNS

I can swing up to 11”
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#16
  • Jul 25, 2023
  • #16
Its not a terribly hard repair if you can weld and do some minor fab work. Once you cut out the bad stuff it wont seem as bad of a job but when its all crusty and crumbling it looks daunting. I didnt use a kit i just bought steel and pieced it together. When you are done coat the inside with Eastwood frame coating or something similar.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#17
  • Jul 25, 2023
  • #17
Is it the salty areas that cause this the worst?
A friend took his SBC powered lark to the Bonneville Salt Flats years ago... Salt got into the weep holes on the bottom of the doors and qtr panels... Ate right thru the metal... REALLY nice car that took extensive repairs to make good again..
If not the one in the street ( had 4 or 5 of them) one just like it..
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jul 25, 2023
#18
  • Jul 25, 2023
  • #18
I went to town on mine. Pass side was a patch job

 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#19
  • Jul 25, 2023
  • #19
Mustang5L5 said:
I went to town on mine. Pass side was a patch job

Click to expand...
Does the back part of the frame rail hooked to the firewall, ever rust out? That looks like it would make that job more interesting..
 

Trogdor

5 Year Member
Aug 30, 2018
195
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53
Anna, TX
Jul 25, 2023
#20
  • Jul 25, 2023
  • #20
Some progress on the driver's side. I have a 9-5, M-F and my friend runs the restoration shop. I help him with tuning as he does a lot of LS swaps in older vehicles and he helps me with metal fabrication. It also helps that we are really good friends.

All that to explain that he took time today to work on the driver's side, I was not expecting him to, and here the pictures he sent me of the progress







Already looks much better.
 
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