Front Brake Swap
- Thread starter FoMoCoPower
- Start date
SandSprite
Member
I'm pretty sure you use the '68 tie rod ends, but they might be the same as a 66 (for v8 cars). You need to get a dual reservoir master cylinder for a disc/drum car. I think the 68 mustang master would work best, but maybe someone else will know for sure.
I just did a similar swap on my 67 Cougar (which has a 67 Mustang chassis and brakes). You'll need to use the 68 outer tie rods. Also a power brake pedal if you had manual brakes (mounts on a higher pivot point under the dash to give a higher pedal assist ratio). The dual resevoir MC for disc/drum and a booster. You'll also need a new prop valve for disc/drum.
Napa seems to have the best prices on boosters I've found - $140 plus a $50 core charge. Prop valves are around $50 and pedals around $30. The master cylinders vary a lot depending on whether they are rebuilds or new and from which manufacturer.
If it helps, the boosters are the same from 67 to 69 and the master cylinders are the same from 68 to 70 - at least for Cougars. Check at your local Autozone - they can check the part numbers to see if they are the same for each year.
good luck.
John.
Napa seems to have the best prices on boosters I've found - $140 plus a $50 core charge. Prop valves are around $50 and pedals around $30. The master cylinders vary a lot depending on whether they are rebuilds or new and from which manufacturer.
If it helps, the boosters are the same from 67 to 69 and the master cylinders are the same from 68 to 70 - at least for Cougars. Check at your local Autozone - they can check the part numbers to see if they are the same for each year.
good luck.
John.
68GEETEE
5 Year Member
HistoricMustang
Active Member
FoMoCoPower said:
Since you already have the spindles, rotors, and calipers.... You'll need a distribution block for disc brakes, an adjustable proportioning valve, a master cylinder ('67 will work fine), steel (not stainless) brake lines to run from M/C to distribution block, and M/C to proportioning valve, and a flaring tool. I'd also get new brake hoses. You don't need to change your brake pedal in the '66, even if you decide to go with power brakes, which I recommend if you pull enough vacuum off the motor.... which I unfortunately don't.
Be sure to get the rotors turned and get new pads... it will save some headaches down the road.
Hope this helps.
Similar threads
