Suspension Front LCA rebuild FAIL

JohnG · Mar 19, 2022

I had made plans to replace the bushings in my front LCAs this weekend. Did not go as planned. Spring compressors will not work and the spring did not just "pop out" like using lowering springs do. I tried to separate the spindle from the ball joint. It said no. Then I tried to separate the tie rod end and leave the spindle with the LCA. Again, no dice. The separator tool got spread out while trying the ball joint and would not grip on the tie rod end. Bummer. I read online about how to take the inner bolts out and drop the arm by the inside. I had the bolts out and it was looking quite dicey. And my jack was not the best. It would leak down slowly and cause binds while I was trying to get other things sorted out. So, I decided to cut my losses and put it all back together instead of going to the ER. I did buy new struts and sway bar links. So, they went in without issue. Then I went to the other side to put in the new strut and link. The new strut was defective. The instructions stated to do a twist on the shaft and it will extend under pressure. The first one worked fine, the other side was stuck. Did not extend and was tough to turn. I bought all the parts from Rock Auto. I will try to source one locally tomorrow and ship the defective one back. Has anyone else had issues with RA quality? The cheap price is quickly forgotten when I have to take it all apart a second time.

So, does anyone have experience swapping LCAs while using the stock/factory springs?

Anyone in the San Antonio area who needs a case of free beer?

I am considering buying a new pair, instead of rebuilding my original ones, and having a shop install them. I replaced my ball joints about 10 years ago, and aside from the boots being all torn up, they feel tight. New LCA assemblies will come with new ball joints.

So, after a long day, I have little to show for it, and more than a little pissed.

96pushrod · Mar 19, 2022

if you can get a good jack underneath, the stock springs will come out if you pull everything apart minus the lca bolts. You’ll need a pry bar to get the spring the rest of the way out. I always pull the struts off the spindle, but usually leave the spindle on the lca.

Putting it in once you get it back out is the real bitch, stock height springs suck royally to put back. I’ve never had a spring compressor that works all that well on the fronts. What I’ve discovered actually works quite well is to use a pair of spring compressors to compress the spring outside of the car, then tie it down with a couple straps (the ones you pull to Tighten). It’ll hold the spring while it’s bound up to get you get it in the perch. Then you can release it once it’s together somewhat and pull the straps out.

As far as replacement struts go, spend a little extra and get something like the kyb ones if you’re staying on a budget.

JohnG · Mar 19, 2022

How did the factory do it? I imagine they had a quick and simple way of doing it. Also, how do dealerships do it?

I am going to try to find a mate for the good strut I installed today.

96pushrod · Mar 19, 2022

There is more than one type of spring compressor, I’m sure there are better ones than the harbor freight one I have.

nickyb · Mar 19, 2022

I did mine a few year s back,it was a bitch getting stock springs back in with rent a tool compressor.
I drilled out old rotted bushings and left the shells then put in prothane bushings.

Mustang5L5 · Mar 20, 2022

safest way to do it is to use this spring compressor

OTC 7045B Front Coil Spring Compressor Amazon product ASIN B000GTJ5I8View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTJ5I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BDYEGJ2ET6TFYSR7BAM0

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/trouble-re-installing-stock-springs-time-for-lowering-springs.851332/

Bullitt347 · Mar 20, 2022

Or you could do this:

Just a bunch of zip ties...Lol

OldManRiver · Mar 20, 2022

With the suspension near full droop and spring still compressed in the car tighten three 6" hose clamps around 3-4 coils,this has been successful for me many times before on stock springs.

96pushrod · Mar 20, 2022

Bullitt347 said:
Or you could do this:

Just a bunch of zip ties...Lol

Lmao, I’ve actually done that before. It took 8 zip ties on each side to get it to hold. Now I just use straps, much beefier IMO.

Mustang5L5 · Mar 20, 2022

I’ve done it before with hose clamps. It worked.

vristang · Mar 24, 2022

Lmao, you guys are crazy!

In the past I’ve used the plate style compressor above, and the type that compresses from the outside of the spring.

I recently found this thing on Amazon for my coil overs. Best compressor I’ve used…
Shankly Spring Compressor Tool (2 Pieces) - Heavy Duty Build, Ultra Rugged Coil Spring Compressor, Strong and Durable Spring Compressor with Safety Guard and Carrying Case Amazon product ASIN B071DQJG24View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DQJG24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TS5JZHYXWDXS5E81GGFB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

limp · Mar 24, 2022

The few times I have used a spring compressor I constantly think of the power being stored in it and what would happen if the compressor broke...

Boostedpimp · Mar 24, 2022

I fix this issue by installing coilovers in the front of each fox I own

JohnG · Mar 25, 2022

Thanks guys. I appreciate the compressor suggestions. This Mustang is not the only one I have, so whatever I buy should also work in my 1965, along with other makes I currently have in inventory. The tie wrap solution looks a little dicey. The hose clamp solution looks a little better, but I think a real spring compressor would be safest. I live alone, so if I took a spring in the forehead, it would be a while before help came. The Macpherson strut spring compressors don't work because the coils on my springs are too thick and too close together.

nickyb · Mar 25, 2022

Safety first JG,safety first.

limp · Mar 25, 2022

JohnG said:
I live alone, so if I took a spring in the forehead, it would be a while before help came.

So do I... When I go up in the attic, I call someone to call me in 30 minutes if I don't call them back before......

JohnG · May 8, 2022

UPDATE, with some good news!!!

No Hospital bills

Last weekend I gave it a try. I bought the above mentioned spring compressor, the kind which fits on the outside of the spring. I was able to drop the ball-joint side of the control arm and get the spring out, but it looked dicey.
I pressed out the old bushings and pressed in the new ones. You do have to put a spacer between the walls of the control arm to keep them from collapsing. All went well. I used a shim to keep the larger bushing from being pressed in to far, but had to test fit and adjust several times to get it right.
Getting the spring in was a bit more of a challenge, since the outside spring compressors were always in the way of the A-Arm. I even made my own internal spring compressor, which was moderately useful, but still questionable and dicey. I ended up jacking the rear of the control arm up into place. Things did not want to cooperate. Needless to say, it was a big pain in the rear. It fought me for hours. I even used the external spring compressors to pull between the top of the spring and under the A-Arm sides. It was a major pain.
All in all, it took me a day to get it all apart, and another day to press the bushings and put it back together.
Yesterday, I tackled the driver's side, and had the whole job done in about 10 hours, at the same time helping a friend change the lower struts on his 2016 Mustang GT. On this side, I went and dropped the inside of the A-Arm first off, and that went easily. Press the old ones out and new ones in. Then, I had an idea. I took out the 2 bolts which hold the strut to the spindle, dropped the spindle down 3" and put 1 bolt back. Then, jacked the A-Arm back into position. The extra 3" may have made the difference. It went together very easily. After it was in and bolted loosely, I reset the spindle-to-strut bolts. I could not believe how easy the driver's side went compared to the passenger's side. I did not even need a spring compressor. The biggest pain was inserting and torquing the inner bolts.

I highly suggest this method to anyone attempting this repair.

Now, off to the alignment shop.

General karthief · May 8, 2022

Interesting, I'll have to remember this when I do mine.

Gs1987GT · May 9, 2022

Working with stock springs, when I rebuilt my front and rear suspensions a few years ago, (front new struts, springs, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rod ends, new sway bar bushings and end links,) the easiest and most safe way to do the spring replacement was to start by placing a Jack under the lower control arm and removing the two inner lca bolts, then lowering the lca to the ground and removing the spring. I disconnected the sway bar end links first of course. I also broke the ball joint nut loose and backed it off a few turns so I could break the ball joint stud free from the spindle before I removed the two rear lca bolts.

I bought new stock LCAs from lmr. Then connected the new lca to the spindle with the ballpoint stud and nut on several turns, then seated the spring with new insulators in its upper perch and jacked the LCA up until you can get the two rear LCA bolts in. Then you can set final torque on the ball joint and LCA bolts.

With the ball joint connected first the spring is captured and cannot fly out the front if something slips.

I did need my son to work the Jack for me however, so it's not a one man job and it take some good drifts and such to get the rear LCA bolt holes lined up. However if you have a good sturdy Jack and a good helper I think this is the best way to get the work done.

I couldn't find a spring compressor that would work for me so this was the best option for me. Still a royal pita no matter what. I'm glad it's done.

LX1993 · May 9, 2022

Tighten the spring compressor as much as possible. Chain inner coils on two sides of spring. Put MMS tool (genius) on control arm, jack strut end into place. Bolt cutter & pry bar to get chain out.

Suspension Front LCA rebuild FAIL

JohnG

Member

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off

JohnG

Member

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time

OldManRiver

Active Member

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

vristang

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

Boostedpimp

JohnG

Member

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

JohnG

Member

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Gs1987GT

Active Member

LX1993

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Suspension Front LCA rebuild **FAIL**

Member

I think they're a little easier to get off

Member

I think they're a little easier to get off

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

I have been doing it wrong this whole time

Active Member

I think they're a little easier to get off

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

Member

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Suspension Front LCA rebuild FAIL