Mine appear to be shot. Any good places to buy locally? What comes in a kit? And are they any write-ups or is it as simple as it looks? Any special tools needed?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
Front Tie Rods
- Thread starter GT_Rich
- Start date
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
you can get them almost any parts store. I would take your car to a shop to have them done so they can give your car an alignment at the same time and it shouldn't cost over $100
It appears to be inner, but I don't know how to be 100% sure. My plan was to replace inner and outer on both sides so I'd only have to do the job once. Is it possible to do just the inner without removing the outer? If I did both, that would put me at $120 in just parts though. How could a shop do all that and align it for $100? (and I knew I'd need an alignment after the job was done - thanks though)
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
shops around me charge 40-50 for an alignment and changing the rods dosn't normally take them all that long. What I ment in my last post was just the labour end of it.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
If its a 91-93 be very careful what Outers you buy as they are different and designed to reduce bumpsteer, if you go to Autozone they are only going to have one listing and it will be the early design, you will need to find Motorcrafts.
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Replace the entire rack as JT said..the new rack will have the inners and install quite easily. Reinstall the outers on the new rack and get an alignment done.
The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.
The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.
The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.
To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.
Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.
The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.
The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.
To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.
Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
Roland69 said:
No Problem! One of the few places that I am aware of that still have the correct Motorcraft 91-93 Outers is PPI.
good info
Thanks for the info everyone. I still have a couple questions though. I'm going to go with a new rack (w/ inners installed) and new outers. I just want a quality remanufactured rack. Nothing crazy. I've seen prices from $78 at Autozone to $200 at 5.0 Resto. What's the big difference here?
Also, Shakerhood, sorry for my ignorance, but who's PPI?
Thanks fellas,
Thanks for the info everyone. I still have a couple questions though. I'm going to go with a new rack (w/ inners installed) and new outers. I just want a quality remanufactured rack. Nothing crazy. I've seen prices from $78 at Autozone to $200 at 5.0 Resto. What's the big difference here?
Also, Shakerhood, sorry for my ignorance, but who's PPI?
Thanks fellas,
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter
HISSIN50 said:Seems to me it's PerformancePartsInc.com (one of his favorite spots, as I recall).
LOL, Correct!!!
Holy crap...$70 per outer tie rod from PPI. What a rip off! I think I'll live with a little bump steer and get some from 5.0 Resto for $22 each.
Similar threads
Wheels-Tires
Front end shimmy on 79 foxbody
Forced Induction
On3 Turbo Kit- Parts list NEEDED - 302 Stock Motor
