frpp 302 crate engine 345hp????
- Thread starter meansn95
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JJ95GTID
Active Member
In order:
1. It would perform well if you had it tuned. It comes with a Ford alphabet cam and would not idle too well with the 94-95 EEC-IV.
2. None, just swap over your stock accessories and intakes.
3. Yes, fuel injected.
4. Stock is free, otherwise go with a street aftermarket or the GT40 family intake.
5. Not so much a question of how much boost but how good the tune is to handle the boost. On a stock EEC with a FMU about 6-9psi is typical. Otherwise fuel/ignition upgrades and a tune is a good idea.
Welcome to:SNSign:
1. It would perform well if you had it tuned. It comes with a Ford alphabet cam and would not idle too well with the 94-95 EEC-IV.
2. None, just swap over your stock accessories and intakes.
3. Yes, fuel injected.
4. Stock is free, otherwise go with a street aftermarket or the GT40 family intake.
5. Not so much a question of how much boost but how good the tune is to handle the boost. On a stock EEC with a FMU about 6-9psi is typical. Otherwise fuel/ignition upgrades and a tune is a good idea.
Welcome to:SNSign:
Just keep in mind that crate motor will not perform significantly differently than a well maintained original motor. In fact, you might notice a performance drop depending on how well your current motor runs (because the new one is not well broken in yet).
And for the same price or less you could get a similar setup from CHP or DSS. If you go stroker or more aggressive cam, you would get much better performance results.
And for the same price or less you could get a similar setup from CHP or DSS. If you go stroker or more aggressive cam, you would get much better performance results.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
i have to disagree with grgt on this, i think you would notice a difference ... after all it has more than 100 more horse power ...
for what you get, it is kinda expensive, but there are guys on here who have them hopefully they'll see this and chime in.
and welcome!
for what you get, it is kinda expensive, but there are guys on here who have them hopefully they'll see this and chime in.
and welcome!
the biggest thing to consider is that the 345hp figure is engine horsepower not rwhp. if your current bottom end is in decent shape, a nice h/c/i setup will give you comparable figures with the ability to give you a much more sn95 friendly lsa on the cam. this will save you quite a bit of labor as well as save you money in the longrun. as far as how much boost it can handle, the tune plays a big part but you also need to remember that the internals, block, and gaskets are all production ford pieces which have hp limitations far below the aftermarket parts available from other engine builders. for the $4000 that that motor costs, chp could put you into a nice 347 setup so in all honesty, i would take a look at the other available options before making the choice to pick up the frpp crte motor. hope that helps.
Black Stampede
Founding Member
This topic has been discussed alot in the past and it seems that the conclusion is always that you don't get much for power for the money. Like someone else said its not rwhp and for 4 grand there are definitely better routes you could take.
Do not buy that. Listen to the others and get a 347ci or kit or something and you will be glad you did. You can get a lot more power than that.
P.S. This could be internet "hearsay.."but a coupla guys said those engines did not dyno very high suggesting the advertised HP is not the same on those engines. He could have gotten a bad one, dunno. Do a search on it. It's debatable but 345HP would be roughly 300rwhp IF the engine YOU buy performs as claimed.
P.S. This could be internet "hearsay.."but a coupla guys said those engines did not dyno very high suggesting the advertised HP is not the same on those engines. He could have gotten a bad one, dunno. Do a search on it. It's debatable but 345HP would be roughly 300rwhp IF the engine YOU buy performs as claimed.
gcomfx.com
Founding Member
The biggest problem I had with what I read about them online. Many of the guys that bought the crates are like me. Really don't know much about engines, thus why they bought the crate in the first place. So one would need to consider the option that they didn't install them to get 100% out of them. Perhaps they didn't break them in right? Or they could have a simple vacuum leak and not realize it.
Not trying to insult anyone, but they could be newbs like me. Most guys big time into performance and good at it, pick their own parts.
Just a thought.
Not trying to insult anyone, but they could be newbs like me. Most guys big time into performance and good at it, pick their own parts.
Just a thought.gcomfx.com said:The biggest problem I had with what I read about them online. Many of the guys that bought the crates are like me. Really don't know much about engines, thus why they bought the crate in the first place. So one would need to consider the option that they didn't install them to get 100% out of them. Perhaps they didn't break them in right? Or they could have a simple vacuum leak and not realize it.
Not trying to insult anyone, but they could be newbs like me. Most guys big time into performance and good at it, pick their own parts.
Very well put gcomfx.
It could have been something they did. For me, the reason I wouldn't have gone with a 331 or 347 was that I didn't know enough about how that would affect the computer and didn't know much aout it at all.I ultimately went with a 306 (bored out version of a 302) because it was the right price and with supporting mods and nitrous or blower I could reach 400+ rwhp. The moral of the story is that you can do a 306, 308, 331 or 347 with the factory computer and just a good dyno tune. It's not the "rocket surgery" I thought t was, lol.
gcomfx.com
Founding Member
I replaced my 2.8L in my S-10 Blazer with a factory GM stroker engine. 3.4L - I no longer fear the stroker. 
fawcett
Member
Take my advice, afterall I have one with the e-cam.
The engine is alright, but like others have said or will say, you can get more hp for the buck if you do your math. My car was stolen the motor was blown and I needed a whole new block (b/c there were some holes in it)-never mind heads/other internals.
Now if you start out with a solid block, you can get a much better came from Ed Curtis, AFR 165 heads and a Edelbrock Intake and pretty much blow everything away (with the proper CAI, Fuel, Exhaust upgrades)
This is THE combo to have. It gets you the best bang for the buck and I regret not having it.
Now about the engine you're considering.
Besides the fact that I have beat the bag out of it untuned for the last 20,000miles, its got some significant weaknesses.
Your computer will hate the e-cam or b-cam
It has weak internals, hypertunic (spl?) pistons suck!
Get a 92 or older block, they come with forged internals so should you feel the need for boost/n20 you're set!
The heads are ok, but for what you end up spending on them you might as well have the best-which offer significant performance over the gt40x's.
The best track time I've had was a [email protected] with my t-5 and 3.73 gears on street tires. Now there was room for much improvement except I shattered my trany on the next pass. If you can drive and you dont have a vert you can get into the 12's on street tires-provided they're not cheapo's. I still havnt run it with my (killer) viper spec t56 but its probably going to be slower because of the gearing.
I hope this info helps you out with your decision. I think I've covered most if no all bases but should you have any more questions feel free to PM me. My mods are in my sig. and IF you really want to go with this combo the one good thing is that my exhaust note is super loud. It hurts my ears sometimes and at my 1,100rpm idle-the lowest I can get it, it sounds badass.
Do your research, ask around for the AFR, Ed Curtis, Edelbrock combo.
-fawcett
The engine is alright, but like others have said or will say, you can get more hp for the buck if you do your math. My car was stolen the motor was blown and I needed a whole new block (b/c there were some holes in it)-never mind heads/other internals.
Now if you start out with a solid block, you can get a much better came from Ed Curtis, AFR 165 heads and a Edelbrock Intake and pretty much blow everything away (with the proper CAI, Fuel, Exhaust upgrades)
This is THE combo to have. It gets you the best bang for the buck and I regret not having it.
Now about the engine you're considering.
Besides the fact that I have beat the bag out of it untuned for the last 20,000miles, its got some significant weaknesses.
Your computer will hate the e-cam or b-cam
It has weak internals, hypertunic (spl?) pistons suck!
Get a 92 or older block, they come with forged internals so should you feel the need for boost/n20 you're set!
The heads are ok, but for what you end up spending on them you might as well have the best-which offer significant performance over the gt40x's.
The best track time I've had was a [email protected] with my t-5 and 3.73 gears on street tires. Now there was room for much improvement except I shattered my trany on the next pass. If you can drive and you dont have a vert you can get into the 12's on street tires-provided they're not cheapo's. I still havnt run it with my (killer) viper spec t56 but its probably going to be slower because of the gearing.
I hope this info helps you out with your decision. I think I've covered most if no all bases but should you have any more questions feel free to PM me. My mods are in my sig. and IF you really want to go with this combo the one good thing is that my exhaust note is super loud. It hurts my ears sometimes and at my 1,100rpm idle-the lowest I can get it, it sounds badass.
Do your research, ask around for the AFR, Ed Curtis, Edelbrock combo.
-fawcett
I didnt read all the posts so bear with me
I had one in my old 95 about 4 years ago. I picked it up used for next to nothing.. It did perform well though
I went 12.7@107 with a 1.72 60ft. That was with 17" nitto dr's, 3.90 gears, typhoon intake, 24lb injectors, 70mm tbody and stock maf ( i had a cobra ECU) and the motor had the B cam with 1.72 rockers. This was all untuned as well.
For what i paid it was well worth it, and the motor ran great till the day i sold it..
For the price they are new, stay away for sure. Theres much better ways to spend your money on a motor. But these crate motors do pop up on the corral classifieds fairly often for sale, usually for reasonable prices.
I had one in my old 95 about 4 years ago. I picked it up used for next to nothing.. It did perform well though
I went 12.7@107 with a 1.72 60ft. That was with 17" nitto dr's, 3.90 gears, typhoon intake, 24lb injectors, 70mm tbody and stock maf ( i had a cobra ECU) and the motor had the B cam with 1.72 rockers. This was all untuned as well.
For what i paid it was well worth it, and the motor ran great till the day i sold it..
For the price they are new, stay away for sure. Theres much better ways to spend your money on a motor. But these crate motors do pop up on the corral classifieds fairly often for sale, usually for reasonable prices.
I really don't see the prob with doing any of the following:
1 oem stock block
2 chp b&b short block 306
3 chp b&b short block 331
4 chp b&b short block 347
1 - 4 all are the same in my eyes
Each one requires the same amount of work
You get the block ready to go .....................
Slap on some heads, pan, front cover, etc for a motor ready to drop in the ole Stang
About the pcm ... Based on my experience
You can go pretty wild with cam specs
and
still have near stock like drivability if you'll commit to a tune
Grady
1 oem stock block
2 chp b&b short block 306
3 chp b&b short block 331
4 chp b&b short block 347
1 - 4 all are the same in my eyes
Each one requires the same amount of work
You get the block ready to go .....................
Slap on some heads, pan, front cover, etc for a motor ready to drop in the ole Stang
About the pcm ... Based on my experience
You can go pretty wild with cam specs
and
still have near stock like drivability if you'll commit to a tune
Grady
