i would prob get the PA starter. by the looks of thier website is the same as the ford unit. you can also just get a replacemnet one for a i think 92 or 93 stang. they use the same style as the two mentioned already, of course it would be a remanf. one cause it came from the parts store. i would think the PA will do the job.
A '93 Stang has the same starter ... that's all these other 2 are ...
Based on cost, buying a reman'd one for a '93 and then buying the 12 gauge wire and two 12ga eye hole connectors to run up to the solenid/relay seems the cheaper route than $160 to get the same thing.
The "new" circuit is fairly simple:
1. Large starter cable goes from the positive (+) post on the battery down to the large post on the new starter.
2. Small 12ga wire goes from the small post on the starter (the small post w/o a wire going into the starter body) up to the post on the relay where the starter cable was originally attached ...
3. Starter is grounded through contact with the engine block, which has the negative (-) battery cable already bolted to the water pump.
DC current is fairly simple to undestand ... power starts out from the (+) post and runs through a positive wire/cable and into a load/power absorbing part (starter) and returns via a negative wire/cable back into the (-) post.
In this case there are 2 relays at work: the key switch and the solenoid on the fender near the battery ... all a relay does is change where the power goes ... (relays the current on to a new location) ... like changing tracks on a railroad.
If you get a stock replacement or the new permanent magnet starter it will be all the same ... the car will start
Based on cost, buying a reman'd one for a '93 and then buying the 12 gauge wire and two 12ga eye hole connectors to run up to the solenid/relay seems the cheaper route than $160 to get the same thing.
The "new" circuit is fairly simple:
1. Large starter cable goes from the positive (+) post on the battery down to the large post on the new starter.
2. Small 12ga wire goes from the small post on the starter (the small post w/o a wire going into the starter body) up to the post on the relay where the starter cable was originally attached ...
3. Starter is grounded through contact with the engine block, which has the negative (-) battery cable already bolted to the water pump.
DC current is fairly simple to undestand ... power starts out from the (+) post and runs through a positive wire/cable and into a load/power absorbing part (starter) and returns via a negative wire/cable back into the (-) post.
In this case there are 2 relays at work: the key switch and the solenoid on the fender near the battery ... all a relay does is change where the power goes ... (relays the current on to a new location) ... like changing tracks on a railroad.
If you get a stock replacement or the new permanent magnet starter it will be all the same ... the car will start