frpp Starter kit question

[mob]

Hello folks, well im pretty sure my starter is dieing on me. After a whole day of my car not starting i managed to find the starter hit it a few times and it started, now here i am 2 days later, in the parking lot at the gym more then 90 degress outside and my car decides not to start again. Luckly i had a ractchet in my car so i crawled under in the heat, hit it a few times and it started. I can only see if getting worse from here and dont want to have to keep crawling under my car, Do you guys think my starter needs to be replaced?

I called powered by ford here in downtown orlando and well i first asked if they sold starter solenoids because i thought that was whats wrong with my car. They said they had a ford racing starter kit, that had a high performance mini starter and came with the solenoid and stuff for 160 bucks. Ive never seen a kit online, anyone know if its good? Should i just get a pa performance one for 130?

And how hard are they to change? Is it like a few bolts and plug in some wires? Im am not very skilled at this stuff at all, i need a jack too right? Thanks

EDIT: I got the instilation thing here
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/08/ministarter/index2.shtml

Im not sure if i can do all this

 

[jerryD]

i would prob get the PA starter. by the looks of thier website is the same as the ford unit. you can also just get a replacemnet one for a i think 92 or 93 stang. they use the same style as the two mentioned already, of course it would be a remanf. one cause it came from the parts store. i would think the PA will do the job.

 

[89CopCoupe]

A '93 Stang has the same starter ... that's all these other 2 are ...

Based on cost, buying a reman'd one for a '93 and then buying the 12 gauge wire and two 12ga eye hole connectors to run up to the solenid/relay seems the cheaper route than $160 to get the same thing.

The "new" circuit is fairly simple:
1. Large starter cable goes from the positive (+) post on the battery down to the large post on the new starter.
2. Small 12ga wire goes from the small post on the starter (the small post w/o a wire going into the starter body) up to the post on the relay where the starter cable was originally attached ...
3. Starter is grounded through contact with the engine block, which has the negative (-) battery cable already bolted to the water pump.

DC current is fairly simple to undestand ... power starts out from the (+) post and runs through a positive wire/cable and into a load/power absorbing part (starter) and returns via a negative wire/cable back into the (-) post.

In this case there are 2 relays at work: the key switch and the solenoid on the fender near the battery ... all a relay does is change where the power goes ... (relays the current on to a new location) ... like changing tracks on a railroad.

If you get a stock replacement or the new permanent magnet starter it will be all the same ... the car will start

 

[mob]

Thanks for thereplys guys, Ill just go with the PA performance, i was planning on getting some long tubes in the future so ittl probably be good to have this. Now i just need to save up some money cause im a broke highschool student. Thanks for the help.