FTI cam idle problems

If you have to floor the gas, that cuts off the injectors while cranking and leads us to believe as stated previously that your running rich - that would also explain the lack of power - pig rich. Do you see any carbon out the tail pipe's. Check the plugs yet?

I agree with Tom. With the twEECer/EEC tuner you can cut fuel pulse width over the time that you continue to crank the motor over. I had this problem and fixed it in a matter of a few key strokes. You said it now dies after its warmed up, this is what MOST people experience with the "surge and die" syndrome. Normally the car will hunt for an idle when first started, and then be fine once it has it, then after a few miles/minutes of driving and warming up the problems comes back. Ed's good at telling everyone that they will more than likely need a tuning devise when he sells his cams. I've said it before and I'll say it again.... you have to treat a cam swap in a '94-'95 like a head swap. To swap heads you need some additional parts like head bolts and gaskets... a cam swap should be thought of in the same way in our cars. If you want to put a cam in, you need to supporting goods like a tuning devise. Just make up your mind that these two go hand in hand.

Mark, before I did anything else, CALL ED. I know he's really busy right now with the spring opener in florida (he may already be there) though.

Oh, and I adjusted the idle screw on my TB, and now the car will idle pretty well, it doesn't die!

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So bumping the idle with the idle screw didn't work huh???


JFYI- my LSA is 110*


Mark- send me an email at killercanary@hotmail.com

paul i drove my car that whole year then tuned it with you guys at kauffmans so the bumped up idle worked for me but like i said my cam is a 114 so i think that helped produce enough vacuum to idle ok i still get surging every now an then when it's cold . and yeah toms car did not like th e cam at all he needs to change that ! or get a tweecer !

Mark

I gotta agree with you about it not being, just tuning.

Have you put the stock fpr back on to see what happens?

Later
Grady

I know I'm chiming in a little late, but I ended up setting my idle at around 950RPM. Below that, it would get unstable. I purchased a FMS idle air adjustment plate so that I could back off on my throttle adjustment screw. My beast likes a lot of fuel, too. 30# injectors @ 44-46psi. Give it what it wants to stabilize the idle. Then, get it dyno tuned and the computer's fuel and ignition curves remapped.

Mark

You are running the correct plugs in the AFR's. *** Right?

I saw that happen once.

The plug did not extend deep enough into the chamber and it ran, but ran bad.

Later
Grady

FYI, I've been trying to contact Ed Curtis all week to get a cam, he might be out of town.

From what I can see in that pic, the plugs look fine. (and yes, 3924's are the correct plug for the AFR's -- I run them, and they're recommended by AFR)

From what ive read, the main problem is when you step on it, it Does NOT pick up revs? That deff isnt a tuning issue.

What would happen if the cam was 180 off, anyone know? When you degreed it in, did you feel confident that it was done correctly?

yellow1995Cobra said:

What would happen if the cam was 180 off, anyone know?

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If I understand what you mean by "180 off", I don't think it's possible. The cam is in control of valve timing, so it can't be out of phase. If it were retarded or advanced enough, I could see some mechanical "difficulties" (read: conflict of interest between the valves and pistons... ).

Dave

Maybe the cam is severly retarted... That would explain a lack luster low end.

Jake