Fubar'd horn

[DmnStr8]

I have an 87LX coupe that I bought about two years ago that has had a dead horn. I've decided that this will be the year that I fix it. Problem is I think my horn is really fubar'd.

When you pull the horn cap off the steering wheel, its apparent that this is where the problem began. Sometime before I bought her the wires underneith shorted out and burned. The cap is worthless (I doubt the foam seperating the contacts survived) and the two wires that attached to it are burnt out. So I've decided to replace the entire wheel (I've got another stock non air bag wheel being shipped to me at this moment), also because its pretty cracked and worn.

Thing is I was wondering what to expect when I pull the wheel. Anyone have pics of how the wiring is supposed to go? I really need a reference so that I may replace or repair anything that was damaged. I'm gonna borrow a puller to pull the wheel, but what is the best way to press a new one on? Anything to be careful for when I pull the wheel? Wires to accidently snap or springs to lose? Any help with this part would be great.

Ok. Also I found the horn relay and gave it a quick test. I have +12v on two the wires (sorry I don't have my notes in front on me but i remember it was the appropriate ones I found during a search) and none on the third. But when I jumper the relay the horns do not fire. Any ideas? The fuse has been replaced.

My next move is to actually take a look at the horns and make sure they are still wired up and working. Whats the best test to check if the horns themselves have also died?

Thanks. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Unfortunatly the NY horn I have been using is not as effective as you would think. Thanks

 

[DmnStr8]

Oh this car is an 87 with tilt and cruise control. If that helps.

 

[jrichker]

Each horn has a single fast-on tab for the electrical wiring: disconnect it from the horn. Connect one end of a jumper wire to the battery and then touch the tab on each horn with the other end of the jumper wire. If the horns are good, they will honk. Be careful you don't bang you head when the horn sounds off.

AutoZone wiring diagrams

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model Mustangs

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model Mustangs

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model Mustangs

 

[DmnStr8]

Thanks. Is there enough room to work on the horns by just removing the spash guard and going up through the fender? I'm not looking forward to removing the fender.

I took a quick peek with a flashlight from the top and I found out I need to check them as well. The ground wire is disconnected off one.

Any advice on pulling and pressing on a new wheel? Pulling looks easy I'm just nervouse about damaging the shaft pressing on the new one.

 

[stangjunkie]

my girlfriend just explained to me what fubar is.....

 

[DmnStr8]

All the instructions I find tell me to toss the steering wheel retaining bolt and replace it with a new one. Problem is I am having a hard time finding one for sale (I'll be making calls tomorrow).

Whats the reason for replacing the bolt? Can I get by just reusing the old one? Thanks

 

[trbkrb]

I replaced my wheel a few years ago since it was cracked, and reused the stock bolt to pull the new wheel onto the shaft without any problems. The only reason I could see for replacing it is that it possibly could become loose or something. Just use some loctitie if you are concerned.

 

[HISSIN50]

I've also reused the steering wheel bolt but it seems like a safety (especially for airbag cars) issue (like new axle nuts on FWD cars).

I dont recall the bolt being TTY but I could be wrong.

 

[DmnStr8]

Last dumb question.

Should I place any lubricant on the brass conact rings under the wheel. Maybe dielectric grease?

Thanks