FUEL FLEX HOSE KIT

93gtmustang · Jul 15, 2024

I found deteriorated fuel line rubber hose by the steering rack recently. You can see it's missing a section in the pic. There is a hard line in there. I've been driving it down the track for some time like this. It doesn't leek.
I ordered this kit. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9964B-K/mustang-fuel-line-repair-kit-86-95
I'm going to start taking it apart. Here's the directions. https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/instructions/LRS-9964B-K INS.pdf
I don't get step 5 figure 4. Use a sharp razor knife to cut through the factory plastic flex hose? Lube o rings. What Type of lube? Not a good pic in figure 9 attaching the lines to the one's coming from the tank.
It looks pretty straight forward. It looks like this kit replaces everything in between where the old hose's were right?
Need some help with this!
Thanks!

Kid wita 5oh · Jul 15, 2024

The worn part is just a protective rubber sleeve, the fuel line is the actual nylon line inside...that LMR kit is just rubber fuel injection hose....

I'd cut a piece of rubber hose and zip ties it around the worn area of your concerned and leave the nylon lines in place

rednotch · Jul 15, 2024

What he said, I'd use a Dorman nylon repair kit on the factory spring lock fittings before I used rubber efi line.

93gtmustang · Jul 15, 2024

Kid wita 5oh said:
The worn part is just a protective rubber sleeve, the fuel line is the actual nylon line inside...that LMR kit is just rubber fuel injection hose....

I'd cut a piece of rubber hose and zip ties it around the worn area of your concerned and leave the nylon lines in place

I was thinking that but was unsure if that was dangerous. I think I'll go that route for now.
Thanks!

93gtmustang · Jul 15, 2024

rednotch said:
What he said, I'd use a Dorman nylon repair kit on the factory spring lock fittings before I used rubber efi line.

Thanks! Do you have a link for that repair kit?

93gtmustang · Jul 15, 2024

What's the bad about the rubber efi hose?

rednotch · Jul 15, 2024

93gtmustang said:
Thanks! Do you have a link for that repair kit?

Its just nylon hose by the foot, unless you want to whole Dorman kit. The factory female spring locks are barbed.. They look like these when you strip them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176396739061 There are plenty of videos showing how to seat the line on the barb fittings without the install tool or full kit, it's kind of a pita, your pretty much paying lmr $50 for some cheap hose and clamps. You can use Vaseline or petroleum jelly on the o- rings. Tools to unseat them are cheap like under $10 these days just Google ford spring lock fuel line.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-300-Nylon-Repair-Piece/dp/B000XQ5IO4/ that's the master kit, parts stores have mini kits with the hose and some fittings. They have on for the tank line for fox bodies since everyone breaks those, but no pre Fab kit for these since its pretty much just the line your replacing on factory fittings.

ethanol for one, other Is there not as strong as the nylon. Yours is just a worn outer cover, some foam insulation loom can fix that if the nylon or fittings not leaking.

93gtmustang · Jul 16, 2024

rednotch said:
Its just nylon hose by the foot, unless you want to whole Dorman kit. The factory female spring locks are barbed.. They look like these when you strip them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176396739061 There are plenty of videos showing how to seat the line on the barb fittings without the install tool or full kit, it's kind of a pita, your pretty much paying lmr $50 for some cheap hose and clamps. You can use Vaseline or petroleum jelly on the o- rings. Tools to unseat them are cheap like under $10 these days just Google ford spring lock fuel line.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-300-Nylon-Repair-Piece/dp/B000XQ5IO4/ that's the master kit, parts stores have mini kits with the hose and some fittings. They have on for the tank line for fox bodies since everyone breaks those, but no pre Fab kit for these since its pretty much just the line your replacing on factory fittings.

ethanol for one, other Is there not as strong as the nylon. Yours is just a worn outer cover, some foam insulation loom can fix that if the nylon or fittings not leaking.

Thanks for all the help! Is this the right nylon hose? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7305613 Then I would need the rubber hose that goes over it.
I was going to put in a piece of rubber hose where the old one had crumbled. But, I stupidly damaged some off the nylon fuel line removing the old outer rubber hose covering. And then that same line on the left doesn't look too good up at the connection. (1st. Pic). It's crimped at the connection too.
Anyways, I had already ordered the LMR kit 3day FedEx. I'm going to try and put that on for now for this race season. Then do the nylon lines when I have more time.

rednotch · Jul 16, 2024

Its not crimped, it's barbed at the hard line, thats just how tight nylon line fits it, the fuel rail cross over is the same way. You have to cut it off with a razor sliding vertical with the barb. Do not throw away the old stuff when you put on the lmr kit and save the old female spring lock ends You will see what I mean when you install their kit It's been a few years since I did one, think its 5/16 and 1/4" return but they both may have been 5/16 barbed... I all ready had a master kit from working in shops. But yes that Napa part number will work or pretty much any aftermarket nylon fuel line sold for modern cars. You can sleeve them with rubber hose before installing the female end or slit foam insulation for extra protection like the factory did.

it's a pita to install on the chassis side hard lines because you can't do it on a bench like the female fittings, your working on the car for those two ends pretty much. Sn95's had the issues with there soft feed lines to, the performance aftermarket sold a AN hose kit to fix it, but fox bodies never had the issue like those and it was before the aftermarket started selling repair kits like these. The factory fuel rails are the same way with barbs and nylon line hose. Here's what they look like with out the cross over hoses.

AeroCoupe · Jul 16, 2024

You will want to heat the nylon lines when you go to make bends. It will kink if you do not. I used a Wagner heat gun for removing paint from siding. Be patient as tight bends will require a couple times to heat and bend to get it right. At least that is what I did as I did not want to put so much heat into the nylon tubing that it collapsed or failed later. Do the bends before you put the ends on and attached to the body hard lines.

Other option is to cut the ends off the body hard lines and use compression x AN fittings then run PTFE braided line from these up to the fuel rails.

5/16" tube x 6AN

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165064erl

1/4" tube x 6AN

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fittings-and-adapters?N=fitting-category%3Aan-to-tubing%2Bfitting-size-1-application%3A5-16-in

Then you will need the fittings that go on the fuel rail to adapt to AN fittings:

5/16" spring lock x 6AN

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640900

1/4" spring lock x 6AN

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640870

Then you will need X feet of 6AN Teflon braided fuel line and (4) 6AN female fittings for the ends of the hose. You will need to figure out if you need straight, 90 deg, 45 deg, 30 deg, etc. fittings to get the lines to install correctly.

Kid wita 5oh · Jul 16, 2024

Boiling or almost boiling water works great for the nylon hose also just dip as much as will go on the barb for a few min...

And push straight don't try to twist it on

rednotch · Jul 16, 2024

There's plenty of ways to do it and in reality you only need the hose... Petroleum jelly and a needle nose to slightly stretch the end before pushing it on the barbs works too just a bit of a pita without some type of clamp like tool that can aid in gripping and pushing it straight on when dealing with the line on the car. I've seen people use caulk guns with some mods for it, lots of stuff on you tube if you look for tricks. Forming bends with a heat gun is a good idea, most ppl see the expensive tools used for them and say screw it and just use cheap old school efi hose. Newer cars use the same stuff for fuel, vacuum and pcv lines with quick disconnects.. If I ever redo my fuel system and vacuum plumbing again I'd probably use this stuff with a mix of hard line with the correct fittings since its kind of a time saver, you can get them in plenty of sizes and out lives rubber, braided hose and even ptfe lined stuff by a long shot.

If your every looking at a "garage queen" unmolested low mileage car all ways check for this and the lmr kit or just rubber efi hose. Thats one of the things I always looked at on the high dollar stuff claiming to be all original. The amount of fraud on a lot of those cars is laughable.

GOvert · Jul 16, 2024

When I was making lines for my 5.0, after I went through the learning curve about an hose and fittings, then sourcing the Ford spring lock to an fittings
adapters, I had ~$120 in making them.

Was still waiting on a lower fitting.

Then I found these. Duh. 87-93 5.0 braided fuel lines Our local drag strip (track) requires an braided lines on fuel.

Lots of way to do it.

rednotch · Jul 16, 2024

Yeah old nhra rules are redundant these days for lots of stuff like that, was meant for carbs and old rubber lines.. They let cars 14 and newer with the same fuel line materials run 9.0 @150 with out even a bar in them now.

93gtmustang · Jul 17, 2024

Man those spring lock connections off the fuel rails were a bitch to get off. I guess they've been on there since 1993 lol. Cutting off the vinyl line was easy. Just waiting for the kit to come. I can get 91 ethanol free in New Lebanon, NY on the way to the track. Which would be better for the new lines I guess. I'm running 15 advanced timing with 93 Octane. Would I get any detonation from 91?
I really like the braided line set up. That's what I want to go with.

mikestang63 · Jul 17, 2024

is this what you were looking for? https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/651104/10002/-1?gad_source=1

AeroCoupe · Jul 17, 2024

Those lines simply replace the metal lines between the fuel rails and the body lines. They connect to the fuel rails and then after the plastic in question on the body rails.

93gtmustang · Jul 17, 2024

mikestang63 said:
is this what you were looking for? https://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/651104/10002/-1?gad_source=1

Thanks! Those look nice until I read the reviews on Jegs. I wish they made braided ones for what I'm trying to repair!

93gtmustang · Jul 17, 2024

That line is definitely pinched or crimped. It was below the barbed hard line fitting when I cut it off. I believe that is the supply line. How could it deliver the proper fuel like that? There are pin holes where it is on the barbed fitting too. Wow
Check out the fuel line safety clip. They clipped to the fuel rail. Did that come like that stock?

GOvert · Jul 17, 2024

In your fuel line pointer picture, where do those lines run? The fuel line safety clips are stock. I had as much trouble installing the new spring lock quick disconnect lines as you did removing yours. I ended up using wheel bearing grease to lube the O-rings and inside where they slide in.

FUEL FLEX HOSE KIT

93gtmustang

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Kid wita 5oh

I'm definitely not in the original hole

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lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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I'm definitely not in the original hole

rednotch

I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish

GOvert

rednotch

I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish

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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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FUEL FLEX HOSE KIT

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I'm definitely not in the original hole

I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish

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I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish

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lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

I'm definitely not in the original hole

I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish

I'd like to remain having one chocolate starfish

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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