Engine Fuel not pumping

Creomod

5 Year Member
Sep 14, 2018
511
42
48
San Antonio,Texas
Got a 89 coupe driving on hiway car shutting off I just swapped fp,fp filter,relay,regulator,car was running occasionally shutting off now won’t start back. Put key forward nothing on gauge what cannot be. O I also swapped the ignition switch . The interim switch is bypassed been that way for years I removed it and have the 2 wires connector together. Can a bad o2 sensor cause car not to start or fuel to prime to gauge? Maybe ecu getting bad signal or bad tps sensor cause this.
 

Attachments

  • image.webp
    image.webp
    671.3 KB · Views: 26
No


A bad PiP can keep it from starting. A bad TFI can too. Neither of those will stop the pump from priming.
When I broke down side of road I checked immediately lifting hood turning key and looking at fuel gauge it don’t go up at all. I got in garage after being towed attempted again the pump made no sound. I just swapped the pump,distbutor,fuel filter,relay,regulator,ignition switch this past week & it’s been shutting off like that here and there. can ecu capacitor cause fp to work sometimes and sometimes not? I haven’t looked but when I get home today I’m gonna crack it . It’s been a few years scince I sent it to ecu exchange
 
Last edited:
A bad ECU can cause all kinds of problems.

I would try and force the pump to come on. You can do this through the diagnostic connector (what you connect the code reader to) under the hood. You want to install a jumper wire from the black/white wire to the tan/green wire. This will simulate the ECU grounding the fuel pump relay. If the pump comes on and you have good pressure then you either have a wiring issue or the ECU need a to be rebuilt.

1776166909946.gif


Most send their ECU to get rebuilt here:


The codes you are getting are as follows:

Code 18 - SPOUT circuit open
Code 29 - No continuity in vehicle speed sensor circuit
Code 31 - Canister or EGR valve control system
Code 41 - Lean fuel mixture
Code 63 - Throttle position circuit
Code 85 - Canister purge circuit
Code 95 - Thermactor air diverter circuit

Some of these codes would make me check the salt and pepper shakers (black and white connectors) behind the back of the intakes.
 
Last edited:
Now out of no where the car started . Fuel going to gauge. Should I still force the pump to run or open ecu and do a visual ? My issue is my car drives the out of nowhere shuts off. Check fuel pressure,nothing , then it starts hours later. Mind you I just swapped the distbutor had nothing to do with fuel pressure,what can cause intermittent yes fuel pressure no fuel pressure? Inspected hoses swapped the fuel harness to the tank last night. As for my codes code 18,29,41,95 I assume I get when car shuts off. Not sure if I get the 63,41,31 when car dies ALSO LIKE TO ADD. When I was stranded and noticed fuel pressure not rising and the relay DID click! But still not getting pressure to the front as for the fuel pump I’m not sure if it was making noise cuz I was stranded on hiway
 
Last edited:
Just opened ecu the 3 capicotors still look good not swollen I had them swapped out few years back can a relay maybe ecc relay or fuel relay be intermittent? Sometimes open or sometimes stay shut? I don’t know is it possible? Fuel lines look good no kinks . Vacuum lines do look like they cracked gonna swap them out tomorrow and get connector cleaner spray
 
I mean you have already swapped the relay so the odds are it’s good. Also, I’m pretty sure (@Mustang5L5) that after the ECU commands the fuel pump to prime it then commands the fuel pump to come on only if it receives signal from the PIP.
The fp relay I did the ecc relay I didn’t just thinking maybe a malfunction in a relay. Usually don’t get trouble with wiring it’s usually a part that goes bad when my car acts up.I swapped the pip,I bought it from O’Reilly I have the dynomid so you can just slip off the gear easily. Maybe wiggle test wires I did look at all grounds. But…… scince I did swap the pip maybe it’s defective? I bought it from orillys but I honestly don’t think it’s the pip . It is easy to swap and mines on warranty
 
Last edited:
the ECU commands the fuel pump to prime it then commands the fuel pump to come on only if it receives signal from the PIP.

The ECU does a 2 second prime on key on with PIP signal, jumping the relay commands it on bypassing the ECU. Usually when it's an ECU failure due to hardware (swollen caps) the pump runs continuous. I believe the outside cap (the one near the edge of the board) is responsible for the pump circuit so when it goes the pump runs. There is also a fuel pump transistor that rarely fails.


Don't rule out corrected connections of brittle wiring as well here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Creomod
@Creomod - Do you know if you got the LX-222 or LX-222T? The "T" is their economical line so skip that one if you can. The LX-222 is probably the best one you can get unless you luck across a NOS Ford one.

This seller on ebay has six NOS Ford PIP's. $70 is steep but I would get one if I did not already have one in the box.

 
Last edited:
What about after the prime and you are cranking the car? Doesn't the ECU need to see a PIP signal to run the pump?


Correct. Although now that I did into this, the initial key on prime might not take into consideration PIP input. Trying to search through 600 pages of A9L strategy but can't find the right ladder logic for key on prime.

But this is crank/run.

1776346445405.webp
 
The ECU does a 2 second prime on key on with PIP signal, jumping the relay commands it on bypassing the ECU. Usually when it's an ECU failure due to hardware (swollen caps) the pump runs continuous. I believe the outside cap (the one near the edge of the board) is responsible for the pump circuit so when it goes the pump runs. There is also a fuel pump transistor that rarely fails.


Don't rule out corrected connections of brittle wiring as well here.
Gotcha