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fuel pressure regulator question

  • Thread starter Thread starter javier302
  • Start date Start date Feb 12, 2007
J

javier302

New Member
Nov 8, 2006
48
0
0
Feb 12, 2007
#1
  • Feb 12, 2007
  • #1
in spring i'm swaping my efi 86 gt to carb.
i have a 600 cfm edelbrock carb
a performer intake
i need a regulator, since i'm using my stock pump, i understand i need something with a return line or a 3 port reg.
will this mallory work?
MAA 4207

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MAA%2D4207&N=700+115&autoview=sku

thanks
javier
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Feb 12, 2007
#2
  • Feb 12, 2007
  • #2
A word of warning on EFI to carb swaps: don’t expect to pass emissions in any state that does comprehensive smog inspections, because it won’t happen. You won't get any more power from a carb than you will from EFI.

Doing the swap: You must know how to read electrical diagrams and wire circuits properly to do the swap. Don’t take shortcuts or cut corners in the fabrication of the electrical or mechanical assemblies. If you do NASCAR quality work, the car will look good, run good and be as reliable as a carb’d car can be. Take pride in a job done with excellence.

If you do the hack job that is common among folks who don’t understand electricity or computers and are doing the conversion because it is easier than dealing with the EFI system, the result will look like and run like road kill. Wiring harnesses chopped up and spliced together with electrical tape, loose and dangling hoses, fuel lines spliced together with 3 types of fittings speak of ignorance and sloppy workmanship. If you can't do it right, don't do it at all. I wouldn’t wish a car with that kind of workmanship off on my worst enemy...

Now that the rant is over, here’s some practical advice…

Do not use an EFI in tank fuel pump with a carb. You will never get the pressure/flow regulated properly. Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 84 or earlier Stang. Fabricating your own setup is possible but there are some snags to overcome.

Do not attempt to leave the EFI in place in an attempt to control either the electric fuel pump or ignition. Doing so qualifies you for the “Road Kill Mechanics Award”.

If you try to use your current tank, you will need to pull the fuel pump out and fabricate a pickup tube & strainer sock to replace the fuel pump. Or you can have a sump fabricated and welded onto you existing tank. Many welding shops will not weld fuel tanks because of the dangers involved if the tank isn't purged properly.

You will need an external electric fuel pump unless you change the timing cover for one with the mechanical fuel pump mount on it. Rip all the EFI wiring out, and the computer controlled fuel pump won't work. You will need to add a relay & switch and wire in the existing inertia switch for an external low pressure electric fuel pump. Do not try to wire the fuel pump without the relay. The 15-20 amps the pump pulls will overload the circuit. This will take power away from other items on the same circuit or cause the fuse or fuse link to blow.



You will need to run some new fuel feed lines or braided hose. The 3/8" aluminum tubing works well, but you will need a flaring tool and bending springs to fabricate the lines. Braided hose is easy to run and route, but is much more expensive. It is about $3.50-$4.00 a foot plus the end fittings, which are $3-$4 each. Fabricating hose assembles can be difficult, but anyplace that makes hydraulic hoses can do it for you for an extra charge. See http://www.amazonhose.com for more information.

While you are at the electrical part, you'll need a Durspark or similar ignition system. The 85 Mustang GT 5 speed has a suitable Duraspark distributor with a steel gear compatible with the roller camshaft. The EFI ignition depends on the EFI sensors to advance the spark. Rip out the TPS and MAP/Baro sensors and the computer will have no idea of the proper ignition timing for best performance. Running a fixed timing setting is only for test purposes or for a race track only car. Don't try it on the street: the results will not be nearly as good as a properly setup Durspark or equal. Crane makes a really nice distributor for non-EFI applications. . See http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=127 for more information.
 

Busted07

I need my gorilla to be about an inch longer.
Nov 15, 2005
0
3
0
Feb 12, 2007
#3
  • Feb 12, 2007
  • #3
^^^ what he said. You can also go here for a different approach.. http://www.jason.fletcher.net/
 

bennettracing

Founding Member
Aug 26, 2002
280
0
16
Ava, MO
Feb 13, 2007
#4
  • Feb 13, 2007
  • #4
Now to slightly hijack the thread...

quote:

"Either go full EFI or use a tank/fuel pump/fuel lines out of an 84 or earlier Stang."

On my swap I plan on using new fuel lines, but haven't decided on the pump setup. Did the 84 or earlier stangs use a mechanical, or do they have a carb. electric in-tank pump? If so, does it bolt directly into a say... '90 vert fuel tank?

Thanks

KB
 
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