TB Injection Install (Aces Killshot)

[LILCBRA]

So it's been a couple weeks since I've really given an update on this - I've been in contact with their techs about what seems like a dead ECU. I let it run for a while then gave it a shot again just like in the above videos when it did the same thing. I got in the car and tried to restart but it wouldn't send signal to prime the pump and the injectors didn't fire. I left it at that that afternoon and come back to it later to find that the main fuse was blown for some reason. I searched my connections and didn't find any kind of issue, then replaced the fuse and it did the same thing - wouldn't prime nor would the injectors fire. Still waiting on their techs to get back with me since their last email on Friday, but it seems that the ECU is toast for some reason....

 

[LILCBRA]

On another note, the V belt has been having issues with the 3g alternator, so I'm taking the downtime as an opportunity and swapping pulleys to go with a serpentine belt:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE415-1025

Fair warning, though - if someone wanted to try using these, they required modifications that you'd think they wouldn't! First, the alternator pulley has a boss on the backside to correctly space it for the system. Now it might be because I'm using a 3g instead of an older version, but it seemed it was too shallow to work. I ground the boss from the backside of the pulley and installed a correct thickness spacer/washer. This necessitates either spacing the alternator bracket out a little or installing a second washer so the pulleys all align. In my case, it looks like the second washer might not allow the nut enough threads to engage on the spindle shaft, but I've not tried it yet. It might have been ok if I had just used the spacer/washer without grinding the boss, but I didn't think to check that first. Then, and what seems like it should be a no brainer for them to get right, is that the center locating hole for the water pump pulley was too small to fit the pilot on the water pump shaft. To top that off, the bolt holes were on a larger bolt circle which necessitates either elogating the holes OR drilling new holes in the proper location. I opted for the latter and used the original fan spacer as a template.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

Wow, that stinks. Years ago I got the expensive but beautiful March pulley set that was said to fit my Cobra and they didn't line up correctly so I sent them back. As far as your F.I., maybe talking on the phone might give you quicker answers. I hope you get both worked out.

 

[LILCBRA]

Yeah, I've called them once before and the tech on the line said I was talking to the best person already. Got an email from him shortly after I called, this is where it still sits as of this post:

The plan is to give them another call tonight as long as I can get off work on time.

 

[LILCBRA]

Finally got an RMA and will be sending the ECU back to them over the weekend.

 

[LILCBRA]

Some info about the ECU issue that may or may not be the cause. Apparently they've had issues with certain style coils when running the ignition through their system. I have an MSD Blaster SS coil that's run through the MSD Digital 6al and he said that that was one of the coils that they know can wreak havoc on their system. He said that that shouldn't be a problem though, because as far as he knows it's only caused issues when their system controls ignition. I asked what kind of coil I could swap to just to eliminate that as a possible problem, he suggested (as any good salesman would...) that I could run their coil and distributor so that everything mates up and runs through their system and save the MSD stuff for another project. I thanked him, looked at their coil, found it to at least LOOK just like most any other GM Vortec style coil with their markings and logo, then looked for something similar. What I found was that it's identical, by all outward appearances anyway, as an MSD 86415 coil - and they're roughly the same price. So I went ahead and ordered an MSD unit since it comes with the electrical connector and will swap that in place of the Blaster SS when it arrives. Hopefully, if it WAS the coil that caused the issue, the new MSD coil won't cause any problems.

FWIW, the description for the MSD unit even specifically says to run it with a TBI with their system.

"MSD 6EFI ignition coils produce high-spark energy to ensure the air and fuel in your engine get burned completely to improve starting, throttle response, and supply powerful spark throughout the RPM range. Designed to match the 6EFI ignition, the 6EFI coil has a clean black appearance with logos laser-etched on a black anodized aluminum mounting bracket, and is supplied with four, self-tapping mounting screws, plus a plug-in harness with color-coded wires to facilitate an easy installation. When running an MSD Atomic EFI or similar throttle body fuel injection system with a 6EFI ignition box, the 6EFI ignition coil is made for you! In addition, an MSD spark plug wire boot and terminal come in the kit to convert your existing coil wire from a female socket connection, to male high energy ignition (H.E.I.) connection if needed"

Either way, though, I'm hopeful that I can get it up and running next weekend again.

 

[LILCBRA]

Update on this today. I got the ECU and handheld back from them on Wednesday or Thursday, so I went out and finished putting the serpentine belt pulleys on, reinstalled the ECU and handheld, changed the oil, and removed the leaking oil cooler I installed years ago. When I got in the car the handheld is still giving me an error that it's not connected to the ECU and the ECU isn't allowing the fuel pump to prime again. So it's doing the same all over again. I went over all of the wiring AGAIN, checked fuses AGAIN, and I can't find anything that I may have done. So, in my mind anyway, it's either the harness gave up for some reason or other, or the car gods just hate me. I'm not sure what else it could be at this point. I'm on a FB group of people running their FI setups and a guy had almost the same damned thing happen to him today. So something's amiss somewhere.....

My reply, fwiw....

I really had high hopes for this setup, but I'm beginning to wonder if I should abandon it for something else now.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

I really had high hopes for this setup, but I'm beginning to wonder if I should abandon it for something else now.

If they would refund your money, it might be a good idea but if not you pretty much have to kept working at it or at least I would. Maybe you could temporarily run new wires to bypass anything you think may be giving you trouble. It's probably one little thing screwing up the works.

 

[LILCBRA]

Yeah, that's what I'll be doing for a while anyway. Pisses me off that it was working then just stopped. So my wiring was good before whatever happened happened.

Went out this morning to see what I could dig up on the B+ circuit. It's getting power to the relay as it should, but no power to the ECU that I can tell. Really thinking of purchasing a compatible relay from a parts store and see what that'll do. I did try to swap their relays, but that had no effect.

 

[Noobz347]

Yeah, that's what I'll be doing for a while anyway. Pisses me off that it was working then just stopped. So my wiring was good before whatever happened happened.

Went out this morning to see what I could dig up on the B+ circuit. It's getting power to the relay as it should, but no power to the ECU that I can tell. Really thinking of purchasing a compatible relay from a parts store and see what that'll do. I did try to swap their relays, but that had no effect.

Thoughts:

If the relay [died] I would try to find out why first. Disconnect the power wire coming [out] of the relay, install new or bypass old relay and check power.

On the [other] disconnected end, check for a short.

If you don't see an issue with Power on the relay side or a short on the disconnected feed side [then] bypass the relays to the EEC to get power and re-run your tests.


Two male spade connectors with the plastic covers removed and a wire between them are simple relay socket jumpers.

 

[LILCBRA]

I didn't update last night but I'm fairly certain I found the issue. After checking for power at all of the B+ connectors I went to plug the harness back into the ECU. When I started plugging the socket in the ECU lit up but the lights went out almost immediately after seating the plug. So I took this video right after and shared it with tech support last night. I'm hoping they'll see it this morning and get back with me. I'm not sure if I want to try to pull the plug apart and try to crimp the female connectors a little tighter so they make good contact or if I want to RMA the whole harness and hope the new one doesn't have this problem, but it's obvious that it's nothing I did.

 

[LILCBRA]

Already heard back.

I think I'll try to tighten the connectors. I'm afraid if I tear it out and send it in for replacement that the new one might end up doing the same thing.

 

[Mcmahst]

After everything you’ve been through, I think you can tighten the connector. You got this!!!

 

[Mcmahst]

Ok, it’s been 3 days, any news to report? Just kidding.

 

[LILCBRA]

Nope, not yet. Been busy with work and other stuff. Hoping to get out there tomorrow after work.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

Nope, not yet. Been busy with work and other stuff.

You need to get your priorities straight!

 

[LILCBRA]

I know, right?! What am I thinking about! Work sucks anyway....

 

[Mcmahst]

I mean, some of us retired guys are waiting for an update. How much weather channel can we watch?

 

[LILCBRA]

Sometimes you've gotta change it up and watch The View or a Hallmark movie or something....

 

[LILCBRA]

So I got after it after work tonight and crimped the B+ connection a little righter. It was still having the same issue with it making contact and blowing the main fuse - OR SO I THOUGHT.....

I started pulling the harness to send it in for an RMA. While I was trying to pull the O2 sensor wire, I found that I had ANOTHER bundle of wires running down that direction. It turned out to be the coil connector from the harness and it was melted to one of the header tubes. That explains why it ran and then didn't anymore.

I paid no attention to that circuit as I was going over the harness again and again and again and, since it was between the header and the tunnel, it was kind of "out of sight out of mind." So once I got that pulled up, cut the wires and applied heat shrink, zip tied them up and out of the way, then reconnected everything else, it fired up. Now on to trying to get it set up and running properly again.....