i have a 1990 gt and i got full exhaust, gears, intake, ignition and coil, cam, and i was wondering if there were any possibility that getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and a calibrated mas would gain hp? sorry if this is a stupid question, im just young and need some car knowledge, -thanks!
fuel pressure
- Thread starter 5.slowmaroon
- Start date
liljoe07
5 Year Member
Adjustable Fuel Regulator is a waste truely. Any small corrections you make are just conteracted by the ECM by triming back the pulsewidth. As long as the stock one is working correctly, it will do the job. Mass Air sensor would be a nice upgrade, and thats recommended. But I highly suggest you think about your future upgrades. If you are upgrading later, then I would hold off om the MAF unless you get one really cheap. No since in buying parts twice. I dislike the C&L from previous experiences, So while that meter is easily changed for larger injectors for upgrades, I cant recommend it.
liljoe07
5 Year Member
Take your time bud. I spent two years buiding the car in my signature as money and time allowed. The more time you put into it, the more you learn, and the more you will appreciate it.
Plenty of parts you can add before heads, depending on what your goals are for the car?
Plenty of parts you can add before heads, depending on what your goals are for the car?
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.
Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter.
*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.
3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should or if you have an electric fan. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.
Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.
Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD. It measures 45 ½” center of the front U-joint to center of the rear U-joint. You will need the U-joint, part #PUJ353 from NAPA. The Canadian NAPA pat number is 1-0134BF. It should bolt right up after the U-joint swap.
Note: This driveshaft is not an exact duplicate of the Ford Racing part. It is 3” in diameter while the Ford Racing part is 3.5” in diameter.
*1.) Metal flange adapter Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports, Inc. KKM Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
thanks again! i was told by others as well to just wait, it takes patients and money and time. i actually forgot, i have the 373's and im looking into an alternator now because my had went out a while back. if you dont mind i have a couple other questions. i have rust on the wheel wells. should i get the rust fixed before anything? and im currently rebuilding my t5 because i want to learn more about them, i have the rebuild kit, i got a couple gears and i need like two others; the reverse gear and the second gear slider and hub assembly, where can i get those besides the dealership? lol
No sense in installing an AFPR unless it is being used as a tuning aid. Like liljoe said, the EEC is going to try to maintain proper A/F, and unless you're flowing more air than your injectors/EEC can account for, there is no need to increase fuel pressure above stock.
D&D or Astro Performance to name a couple.
I hope you're not rebuilding a perfectly fine transmission, are you?
D&D or Astro Performance to name a couple.
I hope you're not rebuilding a perfectly fine transmission, are you?
haha heck no. what happend was, i was sittin in my car and i went to go leave and i went to put it in neutral but it locked up. i tried as hard as i could to find the problem, i took it places and everything. the shifter was fine so i took it apart and it needed syncros very badly and the gears were all chewed up and it was grinding as well before all of this. its actually a sort of hard process, and i havent put the new stuff in yet so this will be quit an experiance lol
I don't know how you feel about the DYI thing when it comes to gears, some people don't like the idea of working on transmissions. If the DYI transmission fix idea isn't something that you would rather leave to someone else, here are some resources:
See TTC: Product Literature to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions
See Hanlon Motorsports - T5 and Tremec parts, sales and service or Welcome to D&D Performance - The 5 & 6 Speed Experts! for parts
A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.
Hanlon Motorsports - T5 and Tremec parts, sales and service also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.
I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it. At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.
For Tremec 3550 and TKO's:
You will also need a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure the endplay ($40-$120). Browse the MSC Big Book
T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… T5 World Class 5 Speed Shims
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”
The tricky part is that you will need some shims to adjust the endplay in the two shafts: the new bearings will change the clearance. There is no way of telling what it will be until you get to the point that it is time to measure and check the clearances. Halon has the individual shims if you can wait for them. If you can't afford the wait, the auto parts store can sell you some shim stock and you can make your own, or have a machine shop make them for you. The shim stock comes in brass (easy to cut) and steel, in varying thicknesses. That's where the dial indicator & base come in - there is no way to get the clearance right without it.
Getting the car jacked up high enough to get the trans jack in and out from under the car was somewhat challenging. Since I didn't have a helper, getting the trans out of the car and back it was one of the more difficult things about the job. I built a trans jack out of 2x6's, some angle iron and a $25 floor jack. If I hadn't done that, I would have needed a helper or to rent a commercial trans jack. At 100+ pounds the Tremec 3550 was far too heavy for me to lift by myself.
See TTC: Product Literature to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions
See Hanlon Motorsports - T5 and Tremec parts, sales and service or Welcome to D&D Performance - The 5 & 6 Speed Experts! for parts
A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.
Hanlon Motorsports - T5 and Tremec parts, sales and service also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.
I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it. At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.
For Tremec 3550 and TKO's:
You will also need a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure the endplay ($40-$120). Browse the MSC Big Book
T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… T5 World Class 5 Speed Shims
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”
The tricky part is that you will need some shims to adjust the endplay in the two shafts: the new bearings will change the clearance. There is no way of telling what it will be until you get to the point that it is time to measure and check the clearances. Halon has the individual shims if you can wait for them. If you can't afford the wait, the auto parts store can sell you some shim stock and you can make your own, or have a machine shop make them for you. The shim stock comes in brass (easy to cut) and steel, in varying thicknesses. That's where the dial indicator & base come in - there is no way to get the clearance right without it.
Getting the car jacked up high enough to get the trans jack in and out from under the car was somewhat challenging. Since I didn't have a helper, getting the trans out of the car and back it was one of the more difficult things about the job. I built a trans jack out of 2x6's, some angle iron and a $25 floor jack. If I hadn't done that, I would have needed a helper or to rent a commercial trans jack. At 100+ pounds the Tremec 3550 was far too heavy for me to lift by myself.
well i actually already took it out of my car and i have the main and input shafts out, i alread got the ford racing rebuild, and now my autos teacher is getting me the gears for cheap through ford. thanks for all the help! thos manuals worked for me as well. some guy that i know offered to put it all togeather for me if i pull some transmissions for him, and he said i could start a job there pullin transmissions lol it all came togeather perfect. thanks again for the information.
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